I have a stationary sander and would like to attach a work light to it such that the light goes on when the machine is turned on. The machine is wired for 220v and is on a 20 amp circuit. It draws about six amps and takes maybe 10 to start. Is it safe to wire the lamp to one side of the 220 volt feed between the switch and the motor?
Thanks
Replies
Yes
In parallel with one side of the motor.
"There are men in all ages who mean to govern well, but they mean to govern. They promise to be good masters, but they mean to be masters."
-- Daniel Webster
Edited 4/26/2008 2:10 am by rsaunders
Presuming you are going to be using 110 volt bulbs, the socket would be connected to the neutral wire, which your machine may not have, and either of the two switched hot leads. It used to be common practice to get 110 volts by using the ground as a substitute for the neutral but this isn't legal under the electrical codes.
I would suggest not connecting the light to the motor wiring. You will need the light at times when the motor is off say for changing the sandpaper or to look at the workpiece either before you start or when you think you are done.
John White
What John is saying is very true. But to emphasize that what was considered safe some years back is not considered safe today. Your choice.
There are 220-V light fixtures and bulbs available that should work.
I ran into the same problem with my 20" bandsaw that is 220 volt only.
Needed a work light and didn't want to run a second cord for the 110 volt light.
I wired in a machine tool transformer to step down the 220v to 110v (2:1 ratio)
The primary of the transformer is wired across the input line and the secondary goes to a duplex outlet for the work light. All of this is in 6x6x6 enclosure.
Don't wire your lamp from one hot leg to ground, sure that is 110 volts but that is making your ground conductor current carrying. A big code no-no.
If the wiring in the wall has a neutral, it is usually much easier to just run a new power cord to the machine with a neutral in it.John White
Yeah but, my whole shop is wired for 220 using L5-30 three prong connectors.
Two hot leads and a ground.
I would have to pull in a neutral through the conduit and change over to four prong connectors. Three prong connectors are expensive but four prong connectors are really, really expensive.
The transformer I used was surplus as was the 6x6x6 box, cost less than one each four prong plug.
Sure, if you've got to pull wire and you have access to surplus equipment then it would make sense to do it the way you did.John W.
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