Wasn’t sure how to title this one. Have some client’s that I just built some interior doors for that we’re going to do the finish on them.
Any how to make a long story short they have decided to have me do the finishing now. They wan’t a dark background with a bright red over it. They have a peice of furniture that has been refinished that they want to come close to matching. In places of wear the red has been sanded thru and exposing the underlaying brown.
It would seem that rather than stains or dyes it looks like a painted finish. Does any one have any experience with the technics and materials any little tricks that might help me pull this one off.
Thanks ,
Michael
Replies
Take a look through these sites. You can sand off where "wear" would happen. Some techniques have you put vaseline on the piece and the paint won't adhere, but I think sanding can be more controlled.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=faux+finishes+furniture
There are a lot of variations on faux painted surfaces and different coatings that you can use. One I did was green with red showing. I was able to use an automotive primer in a brick red. Finding dark brown may be a problem. You may have success with Minwax waterbased stain. It can be mixed in many colors. I used an ordinary latex paint mixed to the green I wanted. Better paints, like acrylic or oils don't rub out well. I abraded through the green lightly. I mixed some artist colors with oil based, liquid glazing liquid. I applied and worked the glaze in areas where I thought it looked good. Next came a little fly specking and then it was all top coated with waterborne poly, sprayed.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Oh, that is very very nice. I don't think that is what I envisioned from the question so my answer is probably not appropriate.Gretchen
Thanks Gretchen, I'm not sure if my style is what he had in mind, either. It took a few experiments for me, the first tries were ghastly.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Thanks for the answer to my post. Found both answers somewhat helpful.
Working up some samples now. Have found that the base paint needs to be harder than the topcoat in the samples I have worked on so far. Stains need a top clear coat over them to keep from abraiding thru them it seems.
Thanks to both of you for the posts. After I get the doors done I will try to post a picture.
Michael
I've done some stuff like this. Kinda makes me nervous because you're expected to match up some little minor "thing".
Anyway, I just painted on my undercolor with basic latex paint, then went over with the outer color. After the first outer color coat I sanded / scraped away some areas
Then, once I got the approval, I went and put the second outer coat on and sanded in the same areas again.
Pee-ess: you wanna make sure your paint cures out pretty good, otherwise you can easily take off the underlayer, too.
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