I have been reading the threads on unfortunate tablesaw accidents and just thought I would check with others about safe methods to rip stock on my tablesaw. How safe is this method? Note: I do not have a splitter on my tablesaw throat plate.
I use a featherboard on top of the workpiece to be ripped that is clamped with two quick grips against the rip fence, positioned where the front of it is just forward of the blade. I use a zero-clearance blade made from Corian. The blade is raised to where about 3 teeth are just visible through the thickness of the piece.
When I feed the stock through, I use my left hand to hold the piece against the rip fence while feeding the stock with a plastic push stick (a long stick with a notched end) with my right hand. Once the piece moves through the blade and I can comfortably control it with the push stick, I will grab a “stick” made of two pencils that are taped together and use the eraser ends to hold the exiting board down past the blade while feeding the piece with the push stick. I like these tools because they are high and keep my fingers away from the blade. However, I am reaching past the blade with my left hand to hold the board in place. I’m tall enough that I am not unbalanced to do this while feeding the stock with the push stick.
Would a splitter on the zero clearance insert allow me to feed the piece through without having to hold it down with the pencils? I am afraid that the board will bind at the exit side of the blade so the pencils help keep it from moving away from the rip fence.
For thinner stock I either use use a shop-made thin ripping jig or a narrow push stick with a grip handle instead of a stick.
I would appreciate any thoughts or suggestions for improvements.
Thanks and I hope everyone works safely,
Brian
Replies
Brian,
The ultimate in safety is a tablesaw with a power feeder. You can stand behind a lexan safety shield and watch if you like.
But more realistically, the safest setup would be:
1) Splitter
2) Blade Guard
3) Push blocks with a lip at the back end (I don't like push sticks; push blocks with a high friction surface on the bottom are a little better)
4) Featherboard holding stock against fence located ahead of the blade
5) Outfeed support, if necessary
6) Zero-clearance insert if ripping narrow stock
Your set up sounds good. I find that a feather board on the fence prohibits me from feeding all but the widest stock through, as it interferes with my push block. A feather board would be a better choice than your left hand for keeping stock against the fence, but I do that too and feel safe doing so. (I do use a featherboard here when I am ripping a lot of stock the same width, where I do not have to constantly reset the featherboard.) Your "stick" doesn't sound very safe to me, though it's not the first I've heard of it. While they are high, what happens if the board shoots back? The eraser follows the board and the tall pencil ends up laying flat on the table, hopefully not with your hand. Tall push blocks are a better option in my books. A splitter performs two functions: it keeps the kerf open and the wood from binding; and it keeps the "keep" piece firmly against the fence.
This is my set-up:
1) 2x4 Push block (see below)
2) Unifence
3) Ripping blade
4) Microjig splitter
5) Griptite Featherboard when ripping lots of same-size stock
6) Zero-clearance throat plate when ripping narrow stock (or producing narrow offcuts)
View Image
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
My two cents worth. I use a riving knife and a zero clearance insert. I generally do not set up a featherboard for a rip.
I cut up 4x8 sheets into smaller peices if posible.
For smaller panels or stock, my technique is to place the panel against the rip fence and Plant my left hand just a few inches after the edge of the table, and as I start to feed I apply pressure toward the fence. I do not move my left hand. I allow the stock to slip thru my fingers, in a manner that is comfortable. It is surprising how sharp the edge of a work peice can be. If the piece is large or long I grip the piece with my left hand and apply pressure toward the fence as I feed the stock into the blade
I use my right hand to feed the stock thru the saw. At the point where I need to transition to a push stick of some kind my left hand steadies the stock and I quickly pick up my push stick and place it on the stock and continue feeding into the blade. At this point the stock is on the outfeed table.
In making a wide rip, I have sometimes stood on the right of the table saw and held the stock down and tight to the fence with my right hand and fed with my left. I tried this based on the tip some one gave about it being safer to place the fence between you and the balade when ripping. This position is comfortable for wide rips however and I think safe enough because your right hand is pressuring away from the blade and toward the fence.
I usually stand to the left of the blade in the operating position as a general rule.
Webby
Edited 8/7/2008 9:53 pm ET by webby
That's pretty much exactly what I do most of the time. Only I don't have space to wrestle with plywood in the shop (circular saw and sawhorses) and don't have an outfeed table. With that push block and my Unifence, I can however, rip a 7' board and keep it suspended without any outfeed support.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Thanks - I like your setup; is the microjig easy to install, and could I install on my existing Corian zero clearance plates?
There was an article recently in one of the wood working magazines (I subscribe to 5) that showed how to make a zero clearance insert with a wooden splitter. If I can find it I will post which magazine and issue. But basically you raise up the blade to full height and cut a 1.5" slot and glue in a hard wood splitter that has been well sanded and waxed. I haven't made one yet but I have an uncut homemade insert ready to be installed so I will probably make one for it.
I also have about 20 years of old FWW, 20 years of old Popular Woodworking, and several years of old DeltaGrams from the 40's and 50's so it might have been in one of them. By the way the old FWW were better than today's in my opinion.
The Microjig splitters are super easy to install. They even come with a drilling template. I'm not exactly sure how, but the legs on my splitters seem to get mangled.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
"But more realistically, the safest setup would be...3) Push blocks with a lip at the back end (I don't like push sticks; push blocks with a high friction surface on the bottom are a little better)"That happens to be counter to what I was taught - namely that the hand should never get closer than 12in away from the blade and certainly neither hand should be at the side of the blade when ripping because if anything goes wrong the hand can end up in the blade (seen it, and it's not nice). For that reason I use two long push sticks as shown in [url=http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis16.pdf%5Dthis leaflet[/url] by British HSE. I was also taught the benefits of the European short position rip fence as espoused by Sarge and Sgain Dubh and find it odd that people can't see the benefit in them. As to featherboards I'd only ever use them if the material is very small in section. I'd also add one more requirement - a good size run-off table behind the saw. In eurpoe we've mandated them in trade shops for years but I'm always amazed at the number of hobbyists who don't realise the danger of not supporting long pieces adequately on the outfeed side of the sawMy own set-up is sliding plate rip fence (high-low), riving knife, crown guard, run-off table, 2 x 400mm (16in) long push sticks. Never had an accident with it yet (and I work wood for a living)Scrit
I was hoping the OP would explain exactly what he meant by "holding it down" beyond the blade before I commented further. But in lieu I have to assume the pencils are to keep the stock from spreading and hitting the back portion of the fence then rebounding back into the dangerous rear rising teeth?
If that is the reason.. Scrit has the answer in his post to Flairwoodworks in using a long push stick and a "short fence". The short fence simply creates a "free zone" behind the blade so the stock has nothing to rebound off of.
I rip daily and quite often in lengths from 4' - 12' and have done 16' to rip stock for chair rail molding. I do it alone without assistance. I always use a short fence already mentioned by Scrit to eliminate the problem. That method will eliminate any need to have a hand beyond the blade period as there is no need.
And I always have proper support in front of the TS in those lengths and behind. I much prefer a friction surface for those supports as opposed to roller balls or cylinders. I learned that the hard way one day while ripping +10' stock that came off roller bearing like a greased pig on top of a flagpole ball and I was lucky. I changed to friction tables that afternoon.
For any interested a short fence can made easily. I use 3/4" UHMW and rip to the height of the stock fence. Drill a few 3/8" holes in top and attach to the face of the stock fence with those nice Rockler universal clamps. It would cost you around $5 for UHMW.. $15 for Rockler clamps and around $6 for a new Starrett self-adhesive tape as the fence will throw off the original tape rule by the thickness you added to the face of the stock. Or you could just subtracted 3/4".. etc. from the original. Adding a new tape calibrated for the fence eliminates forgetting to do so.
If your not interested in the above method.. then your not interested. I ain't ya daddy! ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..
Good luck with whatever method you chose....
Sarge..
Edited 8/9/2008 9:52 am ET by SARGEgrinder47
Edited 8/9/2008 9:55 am ET by SARGEgrinder47
Sarge I am interested!!!I have one on my Unisaw saw with Shopfox Biesmeyer style fence but am unsure of how far into the blade it is supposed to be. I have mine made to go just past the front teeth. Somehow I think is should go at least to just before the center of the blade. So please tell me which is the right way.Thanks, Bart
Hey Bart.... I will explain how it works briefly so you can make your own determination.
The final sever of the tail of a piece of stock is Always finished before center tooth of the blade. If you were to go to your shop and grab some 4/4.. 5/4.. 6/4.. etc. and run it through in a rip cut... you would notice that the thicker the stock the closer to center tooth (highest tooth in the arc) it is when severed.
You can actually set the mark with a magic marker on your existing fence and then make the front tip of the short fence about 1/2" - 3/4" longer. But... that would require that you do move the fence to accommodate to the individual thicknesses. I used to do that.
But... it is much simpler to just move the forward tip of the short fence to mid-blade or just a hair shy. Then you can leave it alone as it will accommodate any thickness your TS is capable of handling which is around 3" give or take on a 10" TS give or take depending on TS brand specs.
So.... around center blade is the most logical place to avoid confusion. I used to adjust... but not a good idea to leave a 4/4 setting and then run a 10/4 piece through and forget to move forward. That would mean that the stock clears the short fence before the tail stock is severed. That's a no.. no...
Try it with some cheap scrap stock as I did. I made about 100 rips doing so until I finally got the feel as making a switch will not feel right in your mind from the git-go.
Regards...
Sarge..
Thanks Sarge
Sarge,
I'm getting an idea of what a short fence is by reading this discussion. From what I've gathered, it ends either at the midpoint of the saw blade (directly above the arbor), or just before it because the arbor moves in an arc. Correct?
Now what I'm not sure of is the length of the fence. Does it start at the front fence rail like the OEM fence, or is it shorter, 6-12" or so?Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Basically a sacrificial fence placed on my long fence. It ends just before mid blade and that allows a free zone beyond as the remaining stock fence is taken from play. Nothing there for any expanding stock to rebound back into the back teeth of the blade off of.
Here is a picture. I don't have a saw as I sold it a week ago and will not get my new one until after the IWF WW Show in two weeks. But maybe this will help.
Sarge..
Edited 8/11/2008 12:52 am ET by SARGEgrinder47
Sarge,
Thanks for the pics- I'll try that next time I'm ripping. I reckon that my Unifence can be slid back to that postion. Ah, love that fence.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
One of the beauties of the Uni-fence is it is a short fence by simply sliding it back. That also gives additional support and aids as a reference guide on the "entry side" where guidance is needed. Once the stock gets pass mid blade you are free.. free.... free at last! ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..
Regards...
Sarge..
Hi Sarge,
As you mentionned, the Uni-Fence is a real plus with this sliding feature. I was fortunate enough since my rip fence has a built-in T-tract on each side so adding the short sliding fence shown on post #29 was easy (as many other accessories). As already mentionned by someone else, dealing with clamps can be cumbersome.
As I can read, you didn't find another tablesaw yet ? I guess you sharpen your hand saw frequently these days !!!
Best,
Serge- Learn from yesterday, work today, and enjoy success tomorrow -
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.org
Morning Serge... I don't find the Rockler universal clamps I use cumber-some at all. I purchased 3 more sets to use in various places as I find them very simple and very quick. I re-saw on my larger BS with point fences and have 3 different point heights made from scrap. I use the same clamps to clamp the point fence to the stock fence. I also use them for a bridge guard when I take the pork chop guard off my 8" jointer to double pass wider stock.
I found and have already acquired a TS two weeks ago. I will be taking it off of a semi-tractor trailer tomorrow morning at the Georgia World Congress Center here in Atlanta. It is the Steel City 5 HP which will be used as the floor demo model at the International WW Show here in Atlanta next week.
I will be there tomorrow helping spot machines sent down to the Steel City Booth and getting it ready for the big show next week. I will also be at the Show demonstrating machines for Steel City Toolworks. But the saw goes home with me Saturday evening after the show on the 23rd of August.
So.. yes it it difficult without a TS. But my wife had disc surgery last Monday so I have stayed busy. I don't normally post this often on the forum but that and the Olympics have given me something to do until I go to work tomorrow.
Regards...
Sarge..
Only 2 more weeks to wait, not too bad. And for sure a 5 HP won't slow you down, unless you feed it so the heat from the motor would heat up your shop !!! LoL Compared to my 15 amp 110 V tablesaw, it should be like cutting through butter.
Have a great show down there and good luck to your wife for fast recovery.
Best,
Serge- Learn from yesterday, work today, and enjoy success tomorrow -
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.org
She's already starting to take command controls back so.... a definite sign she is recovering nicely. :>)
Sarge..
You're smart ! This is a D E F I N I T E sign.
Best,
Serge- Learn from yesterday, work today, and enjoy success tomorrow -
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.org
Sarge, my thoughts are with you and yours as she recovers. I've been on her end of things a couple of times, and I know she has great appreciation for all you do as she recovers!!! If you need moral support, give Nick a call <grin>.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Thanks... I have been there on previous occasions and become an old pro with the emphasis on old at this point. She walks.. she talks and she potties.. :>) Seriously she walked around the outside of the house yesterday which required two up-hills and two down-hills.
She lost some of her ham-string nerves 10 years ago as you know so... the week of baby-sitting is winding down. Should be able to go down tomorrow to get ready for the IWF Show next week. She can call me or my son on the cell phone if necessary but I doubt it at this point.
Again.. thank you.....
Sarge..
I like the unifence too. But this wouldn't work as well if you stood to the R of the blade.
Children are our future, unless we stop them now -- Homer Simpson
Why would you stand to the right of the blade if you're ripping? It's a very odd way to use a rip saw. Slainte.Richard Jones Furniture
Well, being left handed?Children are our future, unless we stop them now -- Homer Simpson
I don't know how long you've been using a table saw left handed to rip wood, but if you're fairly new to woodworking I strongly urge you to learn how to use the machine for that task right handed. It puts the forces of the stance and your body naturally in line with the way the machine is designed to use.
Working left handed means you have to pull the wood tight against the fence rather than push the wood tight against the fence, and that means less secure control of the material thus more likelihood of a mishap. Certainly that matches my experience of people attempting to use the machine cack-handed.
Bandsaws are left handed machines when used with a fence for similar operations, and I rip wood with these too. I use the bandsaw as intended by the design, ie, left handed and, similarly use the circular bench rip saw right handed, as intended. Slainte.Richard Jones Furniture
honestly I wasn't thinking when I made my first post, I am left handed but don't operate the TS left-handed, never have, but was thinking you would be in a safer position to the right.
Without thinking about it your are exactly correct as to why that would not be a good idea. thanks and as always I respect the opinion of others and enjoy learning from others.
Children are our future, unless we stop them now -- Homer Simpson
I see, "Said the blind man" as he stumbled into the muddy ditch. Thanks for the pics. For some reason I couldn't figure how you got that sacrificial fence clamped to your saw fence without interfering with your work. I think I will try that when I get going sometime this fall. I still don't get what you're trying to show on the first picture.
I still have to chop up some wood for the boiler so I can keep warm to work this winter. I've been doing mostly yard work this summer but a little drywall too.
Edited 8/11/2008 10:55 pm ET by Tinkerer3
I don't get it either, Tink. Frankly.. I take so many to illustrate this or that I don't remember that one. I think those were pics when I sold the TS about a week ago. My wife changed our CPU recently and I lost my old pictures on file.
Without a saw at the moment.. I couldn't go down and just take a few of what was asked.... so I just posted any I had on file with the saw top on it.
Another scientific approach from me of course. ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..
Regards...
Sarge..
Hi Chris,
This is my version of this anti-kickback (attached) when dealing with tensions in wood. Read a little more about it on my webside at the middle of this page clic .
Best,
Serge- Learn from yesterday, work today, and enjoy success tomorrow -
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.org
Thanks Serge,
Actually, I'd already perused your site and read about that. I think that your site is the only one with two languages on the same page. I like it - if my mind is sharp, I'll decipher the French. If not, I'll stick to English.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Hey Chris,
The most important thing is to continue sharing our passion, knowledge and experience. The language is only a vehicule (although it helps keeping the mind sharp).
Thanks for your visit.
Best,
Serge- Learn from yesterday, work today, and enjoy success tomorrow -
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.org
Hi Chris,
I finally browsed your website. Really nice work ! Congrats. And nice presentation. It looks very professional. You have a completely different approach to share with others and it's very attracting (and attractive). I was surprise to see French words and links on your site and I suppose this is a bonus from using Windows Life Spaces.
Good work buddy.
Serge- Learn from yesterday, work today, and enjoy success tomorrow -
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.org
Serge,
Je suis content que tu l'aimes. Thank's for the comments. By the way, I don't see any French on the site when I am on it. Maybe it has something to do with your location.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Morning Chris,
Wow ! You're doing well in French. Félicitations !
Please find attached what I see on my side of the border (!!!) from the top and bottom of your web page, also at right. This is also real French !!! After thoughts, I believe MSN shows general infos according to the language established by the owner's Windows setup.
By the way, I was very pleased to see your comments about Lee Valley on your website. As you mentionned, this ressource is just great, as their costumer service. They are on the top of my list.
Best,
Serge- Learn from yesterday, work today, and enjoy success tomorrow -
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.org
Hmmm. Non, je ne le vois pas. Have a read my first post at the bottom of the second page - you may find it interesting.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
I have read all 52 postings but don't remember seeing where anyone uses the spring loaded hold down wheels which only rotate in the direction of feed.
You're talking about Board Buddies, right? It is funny that nobody has mentioned them. Do you use them?Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
I've been using the same set for at least 25 years and very seldom are they off my saw.
Hi Chris,
Okay, I read a part of your website and now I understand about Lee Valley. I also understand why your French writing is so perfect since we are on the same side of the border. When I saw you wrote an article in CHW I went in by bookcase to see if I had it, to find out it was published between 2 subscritions. Since I like what you're doing, I'll spend more time browsing your website. I must admit that I have to enlarge the text to be comfortable.
Hope your clean up is going fine !
Best,
Serge- Learn from yesterday, work today, and enjoy success tomorrow -
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.org
Serge,
Actually, I've had a few articles published in Canadian Home Workshop. They appeared in the following issues: April 2005, November 2007, and Summer 2008. To be honest, I don't update my website as much as I should - too much time spent here on Knots, in the shop, at work, and on the mountain bike trails.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Hey Chris,
Finally I'm back after reading your article in the Summer 2008 issue about the Beach Caddy. It's the only issue I have from my new renewed subscription. Sorry for the other articles.
Congratulations! I like the design, particularly the secret compartment, which is clever. I also like the fact your project uses strips of wood, which most woodworkers have plenty in the scrap bin. The most important aspect is your talent to explain in simple words, all, I mean all the steps and complexity of building the project. It was easy to imagine them all and I'm sure any level of woodworkers would have fun to build it. Again, Congratulations!
Best,
Serge- Learn from yesterday, work today, and enjoy success tomorrow -
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.org
I know you have posted pictures of your setup before but if you have one handy, could you show your short fence again?
See post 27, Tink...
Sarge..
Scrit,
I learned the 4" rule and have never heard of the 12" rule.
I like push blocks over push sticks (especially long ones) because I feel that I have much more control of the stock. I used to use the store bought plastic push sticks (about 8" long) and felt that they were difficult to apply enough pressure to feed stock and feel like a slip would send my hand and push stick into the blade. Also, my push block doubles as a hold-down. I tried the link you posted but couldn't get it to work. Don't know if it's me or not.
What is a short position rip fence?Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Hi Brian - In addition to the excellent suggestions for safety devices and technique, it's also much safer to rip if the wood has been flattened/straightened prior to ripping. Good blade selection is also safer....a decent quality sharp clean ripping blade is best suited for the task.
I would strongly suggest a splitter. I use the microjig splitter in conjunction with their hold down. Perfect for cutting small stuff on the tablesaw and it keeps the digits safely away. Go to the link below and watch the video. The hold downs are not cheap, but then my hands are worth it. The splitter is easy to put in and take out.
http://www.microjig.com/
If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Can the Gripper be used for stock longer than 16" (website says 2 Grippers needed for longer stock)? I cut a lot of pieces that are sometimes 3-4 feet long so I wouldn't want to invest in a push block that won't accommodate the longer pieces.
The splitter definitely seems the way to go as a minimum.
Two are needed for long stock. They are not cheap but well worth it and are much cheaper than a trip to the ER. They are also excellent for use on router tables, shapers and jointers.
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .
"Life is not a success only journey." Dr. Phil
I use the two grippr set up and you can walk through the piecies as long as you want. They pass right over the splitter. It's a great set up. I really like the side pieces that allow you to keep the piece balanced and complete downward pressure on all faces and down good on the table. The splitter is not expensive, but the hold downs are not cheap, but its worth the investement. Do you like your digits?Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
42906.9 in reply to 42906.7 Can the Gripper be used for stock longer than 16" (website says 2 Grippers needed for longer stock)? I cut a lot of pieces that are sometimes 3-4 feet long so I wouldn't want to invest in a push block that won't accommodate the longer pieces.The splitter definitely seems the way to go as a minimum.Just get two grippers you won't regret the purchase.
As someone who used to stitchup hands in an ER. Any accesary can be easily justified With the average ER visit with a surgeon being one or two thousand dollars Better hold downs are great. I would rather spend the money on more lumber. The problem with saw cuts unlike knife wounds, there is a piece of tissue missing that cannot be replaced. Trimming away finger bones so that the remaining tissue can cover them is a permanent change. Pain is added in for free and frequent cold intolerance of what's left is a common side effect.
But anyway I use microjigs with magnets as hold down and feather boards. I also have a commercial jig which can be set to straddle the blade when cutting narrow stock. I agree that hold down blocks with notched ends are great.
BE careful. Even typing with fewer than ten fingers can be learned.
Sam
You're getting some excellent advice here, I especially like the emphasis on push blocks instead of those sticks with a notch on the end. With regard to a splitter, one does not have to buy a splitter. If you need to rip while you're waiting for your order to come in, Google on shop-made splitter and you will find several ideas, at least one from Taunton. If you're an on-line subscriber, you can access Kelly Mehler's excellent article on kickback, which shows his little shop-made splitter.
I read your post about 3 times BY. The problem is having your left hand beyond the blade as the stock exits using pencilsin your left hand to "hold it down". Why do you feel there is a need to "hold it down" beyond the blade?
Perhaps I'm missing something but I could not quite visualize why your holding it down with pencils behind the blade.. Anyone if you know the answer.
Regards...
Sarge..
Edited 8/8/2008 2:46 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47
PLEASE,PLEASE NO LEFT hands past the blade for any reason with or without the worlds longest push stick.If the rising teeth grab the board you will be amazed at the velocity .Your pencils will vanish and the recoil will probably make you put your fingers in the blade. I have picked up the hamburger as the blade was a dado ,seen the 25 stitches on another,and seen the results of another, all disgusting.I suggest ,a splitter and overhead guard(better riving knife and crown guard, but that might be im practical) and push block.We run 3 cabinet saws in our shop
Brian, you said "...and use the eraser ends to hold the exiting board down past the blade while feeding the piece ..."
Do you hold the existing board down because it tends to rise up from the saw table as you cut?
I use a "micro" splitter myself, but I sometimes see the work want to float upwards as the board is pushed through the blade. In my case that's usually the result of my blade getting out of parallel with the table and allowing the back of the blade to knaw on one side of the kerf or the other.
Mike D
Edited 8/10/2008 10:39 am ET by Mike_D
Hi Brian,
I use these shopmade splitters plus a push block and I keep my eye against the rip fence to insure there's no gap (to satisfy me). One splitter (installed) is for 1/8" blade, a second for thin kerf blade and the third short one is for using with the dado set. Cheap pieces of steel I purchased from the local hardware store. All front edges have been tapered sligthtly. I wouldn't go without them anymore.
I use featherboards only for precise final cuts.
Best,
Serge
- Learn from yesterday, work today, and enjoy success tomorrow -
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.org
Serge, I like those! How do you make the short-side cut for that notch?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Hi ForestGirl,
With a good quality carbide tip dado set on the tablesaw. Just kidding of coarse !
I drilled the appropriate size hole on the drill press, than, unfortunalty, by hand with a hacksaw, a bastard file, a rat-tail file and of coarse a mechanic vise. I didn't remember so I had to get down the workshop to take a close look, which was obvious. I believe it could be done with a portable grinder with a steady hand, but it sure makes a mess. I remember the first one I made was a little too tight and I had more filing to do, reason why I drilled the others a little bigger than required by the bolt itself.
Best,
Serge
- Learn from yesterday, work today, and enjoy success tomorrow -
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.org
Edited 8/12/2008 12:14 pm ET by bricofleur
Only had kick back twice.. Both BAD! Last time I thought I was going to die! Hit in the Breast bone!
I think the real problem is we never knew what caused it so we never learn from it!
I'd say both were from ripping something against a fence AND NOT USING A STANDOFF block.
I would say I had a splitter there.. Still happened!
Probably not paying attention which I thought I was?
.
In my experience a long push stick with the right hand alone is more than enough to finish the cut accurately and you should not have to use the left hand uphill of the blade at all, because I think this is indeed always at least a little unsafe. With a 10" push stick you can apply preassure over a longer area than with a single hand, think of it as two hands in one . . . the tip of the stick can act as the left hand and torque the stock toward the fence if you like. From your writing I can tell that you're on the right track about safety with the TS. You've got to have a healthy respect of what it can do to you and how fast it can do it. The people I most imagine having TS accidents are too cool to make a safety effort until it happens and then plead incredulity, mostly carpenters, not dedicated woodworkers. I think people like you and I will be okay as long as we stay vigilant (I caught myself, repeatedly, reading the warnings on my jointer blade guard as I fed cabinet door stiles, the unsafe side-effect of my self discipline to feed slowly). You must always wear safety glasses when using the table saw. As much fuss as we make about it, a missing finger is not a very big handicap compard to a missing eye. Just felt like writing tonight, hope some of this helps.
Brian
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