I’d appreciate a recommendation for a clear finish I can apply with a cloth/rubber. It is for a dining/breakfast table so the finish needs to be tougher than shellac–ie, needs to resist alcohol, grease, etc.
I’d like a finish that will yellow over time rather than remaining super clear.
I’ve used Tung oil (Formby’s) in the past, but I’m not sure that is tough enough for this situation.
Thanks in advance.
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I've found that the best finish that looks great and takes a lot of abuse is a polyurethane finish....but not just any poly will do! I like General Finish Arm R Seal (Woodcraft has it for sure) mixture of oil and urethane. I put it on with folded piece of t-shirt type material. My technique is to put a couple/three layers of clear on first....with light sanding between coats and then finish with a final coat of satin. The "satin effect" is made by crushed glass in the mix that when put on refracts the light giving it that nice soft satin glow. If you put on several layers of satin only... the layers of glass in the finish will tend to almost hide your wood too much (in my opinion). Each layer is very thin.... and when finished...you can set a hot cup of coffee right on it....with no problem! I've used it on a lot of projects and have never seen anything take such a beating and still look great!
There are some paste varnishes that will do exactly what you want. Bartley's makes one, Circa 1850 is another, also Old Village and Turco. I have an old Hoosier cabinet in my kitchen that I must have refinished 30 years ago. Looks great and wears like iron, easy to use.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Thank you for the suggestions.
I've never used a paste varnish. Anything in particular I should watch out for? Also, how many applications do you suggest.
Paste varnishes are quite easy to apply. You can use a soft cloth, like an old piece of T-shirt, ball it up into a smooth pad. I wouldn't try to get too much on at a time. The heavier body eliminates any runs or drips and the slower drying time allows some touch up or going back over, when necessary. It builds a surface fairly quickly. 3 or 4 thin applications is usually enough. Work with the grain. You should be moving when you touch down and lift off the work, a little like buffing. You can see what's happening and if you are leaving any marks. Once you start in, I think it will be intuitive. When dry, you can buff with 0000 steel wool and apply a light coat of paste wax. You will have a medium gloss shine, traditional looking and very durable. Try a practice piece, I think you will like it.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Formby's is a varnish and contains no real tung oil at all. It's an alkyd/soya oil varnish and says so right on the label. Being a varnish, it should be more than durable enough for the application you have. Just be sure to apply 4-5 coats to get maximum durability.
You can also make you own wiping varnish by thinning your favorite varnish 50/50 with mineral spirits.
You don't need a "special" paste varnish. Dilute a good varnish 50/50 with mineral spirits and wipe it on. Apply about 8 coats for a table top. YOu can reapply the next coat within several hours so this isn't a long drawn out process.
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