As the saying goes, “when it rains, it pours”. This is my second post for the day but I really need advise.
Some time ago, my employees(not woodworking) gave me a 3 1/4 craftsman router and a craftsman table. I wasn’t crazy about the setup, but when I needed a brute, that was the ticket. Sometime during the past winter, I set a gallon jug of insecticide on the table and it leaked down into the router. I cleaned it up but later discovered that the plunge tubes corroded and failed to work without great resisiance. Today, while trying to force the plunge adjustment, the whole bracket sheared off. I am going to recycle the whole set-up.
I have Porter Cable 1 3/4 router that I use as a second on a PC bench table. I need another which will be my main router table. I am interested in getting one with a bigger top. Most are around 24 X 30. While that isa good bit larger than the bench, it is not larger than the Craftsman.
I would be interested in suggestions from those who are really pleased with their set-up. I am more interested in recommendations for the table than the router.
Edited 8/1/2006 9:50 pm ET by coolbreeze
Replies
Coolbreeze,
Sorry to hear about your router and table. You are primarily looking for ideas on router tables. There was a router table thread in Knots about a month ago that was very long. Look it up.
If you have a lot of money and want a very neat table, try the Lee Valley Veritas router table. All metal. Lots of extras. Can be fine-tuned. It doesn't use a table insert(router baseplate). You use the clamps on the bottom of the table to attach the router. Lots of extras can be bought. Very cool, but expensive.
There is one more approach that does not use a table insert. Read the website of Pat Warner on routers, expecially the section on router tables. It is at:
http://www.patwarner.com/router_table.html
Pat Warner is a bit of an iconoclast. He take some positions that are not mainstream, BUT HE MAKES YOU THINK. That's a good thing. He pushes the idea that a table insert (router baseplate) weakens the whole system and adds a host of problems. So he recommends that you simply screw the big router to a thick piece of MDF with a hole in it. That is an overstatement but pretty close. If you have small, medium and big bits, then just make three tops, each with a different size hole in it. Make the table yourself. He gives good ideas on how to build a strong simple table. If you want a very precise fence setup, he shows how to make one. If you want a simple fence that you can make in an hour, he gives ideas on that too.
Whatever way you choose to go, I recommend you look at those two alternatives. Both have the No-BASEPLATE approach. Other than that, they are quite different. If you use the Warner approach, you can make the table as big as you want. A big table is useful for some applications. I don't know your applications. The Veritas table is very nice, but it is not large.
If you use the Warner approach, you can save $400 or more, and buy a big 3 1/4 HP router and still have enough left over to buy some nice bits.
Another interesting, off-beat router table is the HAWK table. Look it up at:
http://www.rbiwoodtools.com/
It can be used both as a horizontal and a vertical table. It is a bit pricey, but it, too, makes you think.
Whatever you do, try to visit a number of woodworkers and put your hands on a number of differentt router tables. When you lay a piece of wood on them, and go through the motions, much becomes clear that you won't "see" by looking at pictures or reading the advice of others. PLease let everyone know what decision you make, and more importantly, why you made it.
Mel
Measure your output in smiles per board foot.
Thanks for your reply. It was just the kind of response I was hoping I would get.
I have looked at the Veritas table. However, at the time I was just browsing. I wondered how to make a end cut on a rail without a miter gauge. When making stiles and rails, I use M&T if strength is an issue. However, I do some where I use the S&R cut as a joint. Always, I use a waste piece to back gauge the rail when I push the end through the bit with my miter gauge. How would one do it on a table that has no miter gauge. I could use my second table, but I would like the option of doing it on either table.
Also, I hope someone has some recommendations on the fence as well.
When I needed a router table and fence, there wasn't a lot to chose from. One table had "this" I wanted, another had "that" and yet another had the "other option". Sat down with a cup of coffee and decided what features I wanted and not what those that produced them decided I needed. Made it just the size I wanted and fit my needs.
The resulting "junk-table" and "junk fence" evolved from scrap paint grade birch ply, MDF, a left-over piece of Mica, glue, sheet metal screws and a few pieces of angle iron to re-enforce under the router insert. A shelf underneath to trap falling dust and keep the bottom for storage. Put it on a mobile base and it travels to any continental state if needed.
Around $50, not including the Milwaukee 3 1/2 HP above the table adjust strapped under-neath. It is not a piece of show-room art, but in the words of a famous American, she'll "get er done!
Good luck with your decision...
SARGE..
Thanks. You have a good n cheap multifunctional router table with fence. A lot more features and not as cheap as "The Router Workshop"http://www.routerworkshop.com table and fence.
Coolbreeze,
Glad you enjoyed my response. You have other responses which focus on Norm's table which is not unlike Mark Sommerfeld's. My brother saw Mark's at a woodworking show and bought it, along with his recommended Hitachi. He is a housebuilder and he loves it for cabinetwork. As someone said, it is similar to Norm's table. You can find lots of plans for similar tables, or you can buy them on EBay, or you can buy Sommerfeld's. But, I love Sarge's answer. I DID IT MYSELF!!!! Self sufficiency!!! A man who thinks for himself and then acts. He studied the situation, thought about what he wanted and didn't want, and just made it. And the pictures are great. I wish I had a horizontal router table. I will build one. Just haven't gotten to it yet. Looks like it would be great for both mortising and for tenons, and other stuff. The nice thing about the HAWK is that is morphs from vertical to horizontal. If you figure you are getting "Two" tables for the price of one, then maybe the price is worth it. There are other router table designs which have a sliding table. I have seen them on the web. Interesting, but ???? In any case, the best way to solve a problem is like Sarge did. Get lots of alternatives and see what you want. If at all possible, make it yourself. Have you read much about the architect, Frank Lloyd Wright? After he built a structure, he kept going back and revising it. That's what's nice about something you make yourself, like a router table. A person is more likely to "improve" their own homebuilt table and fence than to modify something they paid $500 for someone else to make. Enjoy,
MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot.
Coolbreeze,
Like many here, I like Norm's router table. It's a good size with lots of storage...so it is very convienent to set up and use.
I've been watching the Router Guys on The Woodworking Channel and they have a much simpler setup that fits their style of work. They use a lot of fixtures to achieve results.
The two set ups are not mutually exclusive....
I have a "Norm-style" router cabinet and an Industrio table by CMT/Mark Sommerfeld. I recently bought the Hitachi M12V. This is an excellent router table router. I previously used the Dewalt DW625 (which is an excellent large hand held router), which was not a good choice for a router table. Here is a photo
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v384/eganders/0ce312c4.jpg
Eric,
What do you do with the Hitachi when a bit change is needed? Do you pull the whole thing up or work the wrenches with the router in place? thanks
As with my DW625, I use a "bent wrench" designed by Mark Sommerfeld. You can change bits from the top without even cranking the router up or down.
Eric,
I have a 'bent wrench' that I use on my 621 in the router table. I've been thinking about the Hitachi for router table use but thought the two wrenches for changing bits might be an issue. It sounds like the bent wrench eliminates the issue. thanks
The Hitachi M12V, like the 621 has a lever to lock the spindle. You will find it will work the same. The M12V has a wider opening than the 621 also.
I have taken a different approach - but, in the do-it-yourself realm. I cantilevered a 30" x 60" outfeed/router table to my Unisaw. Works great and is truly mobile.
The insert is a Woodpecker Power Lift which allows above-table bit changes in short order. (I chuck a piece of hex rod in my drill and run-er-up and down.) I have a JessEm fence (lord, the're built hell-for-stout, but heavy) with a miter slide for the end cuts you mentioned.
No photos now, wil take some if you are interested.
Frosty
Working on a new fence & table for ordinary use; will become CD-R with plans & graphics. For now, just a sample with its fenders exposed.
Preview: See the preview at the pix link.
Like you, I am in the market for a router table. I have a small Sears table which is not totally compatible with my PC 890 plus I want one with more surface area. (If you are considering a PC 890 purchase you might want to read a thread about "PC 890 router table problem" or something like that.) FWW issue #181 has some data you might use also. Actually, FWW left out as much as they included. I was by Woodcraft in Franklin, TN, last week. They had a run on router tables , so they couldn't show me much. I'm going back there Monday hoping for better luck.
A commercial table without an insert is hard to find. I have about given up on that feature. Those inserts are expensive, too. At my age I want to make a purchase and use it. A design-&-build project could extend beyond a very important funeral.
I have a PC890 base permanently mounted under the Sears table. With 2 wrenches bit changes are easy. Height adjustment is a snap, too. I don't need PC's special wrench which I have anyway. The router motor goes in and out of the base quickly. I couldn't be more pleased with that part of the setup. A secondary dust pickup is needed below the table, however, attached thru the dust pickup hole in the router base. If you don't have that on a PC890, chips can jam the motor into the base. LOL!!
BTW, the PC890 is much quieter than my Sears routers. If that is what you buy, you probably don't have to enclose it in a box under the table. Maybe some of the other brands have reduced the noise level, too. I would be surprised if they haven't.
Cadiddlehopper
"You probably don't have to enclose it in a box" is not true! I had been running the router at reduced speed. I ran it at full speed yesterday for the first time. Ear protection or an enclosure is definitely needed when running at high speed. Please forgive!
C.
Edited 8/5/2006 9:01 am ET by cadiddlehopper
I built this one from FWW a couple years ago and I love it. It makes sliding dovetail joints a breeze. I added the wheels on the bottom because the steel plate on the bottom (not showing) makes it really stationary. The last picture is set up to bead 1/4" strips of Spanish cedar for my boat.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Workshop/WorkshopPDF.aspx?id=2906
Hello coolbreeze,
I too needed a reliable router table and took a slightly different approach - buy a tested system and modify it to suit my needs.
Jessem had a good sized router top (24" x 32") and an excellent fence - to these products I added the router Master-Lift to handle my PC 7518 (it never leaves the table). The whole setup works perfectly and the only drawback was storage.
Using some shop scrap laying around consisting of 3/4" Birch plywood, 6/4 ash and 4/4 cherry and maple pieces, I constructed the cabinet that houses the Jessem products.
In the end I got what I needed - a solid mobile router table (4 locking swivel casters) that offers perfect accuracy that can be expanded in the future. There is joy in building the cabinet that houses the router table without all of the worry about the fuss over the table top sagging or the fence not working properly with the rest of the bench. The Master-Lift is reliable, accurate and raises and lowers easily for changing bits.
In summary, I put the whole setup together, used up some scraps from the shop and got a functional router table that was up and working in the shop after one weekend, which left more time to build other more important projects. The router table is a tool - this one is solid and I never worry about it meeting my demands for accuracy, relaibility and most importantly the thing is a joy to use!
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