I have been and will for a while more, I suspect, been researching the best router for table use. Of course the Porter Cable is so far the best candidate.
However, let me pose this. Somewhere in the past I read a high recommendation for a 3 1/2 horse Triton. It was fairly low cost and rated very highly for table use. Now since FWW is my bible, I could safely assume it would be there that I read this…I have looked through many a back issue, couldn’t find it.
Anyone out there have one or any feed back on same? I would greatly appreciate it.
Jeff from Texas
Replies
I have been using the 2 1/4 hp Triton for about six months and can't say enough good things about it. The above the table bit changing and height adjustment are great. I find the power to be all I need (though i don't tend to spin any large bits). Paid $199. Money well spent.
Thank you for your reply!Jeff
FWW reviewed and highly praised the smaller 2 1/4 Triton, which is very similar to the 3. The 2 does have the capability of being raised from above the table by a winder, which the 3 lacks. However, the 3 is very easy to raise and lower using a handle on the side of the router, and allows you to change bits from above the table. I have one on a router table on my saw, which is open, and presents no problem. Most of the features of the router are controlled by handles on both sides, so you have to leave enough clearance around it under the table.
Mine has worked very well in the year or so I've had it, but I'm not a heavy user of routers, and I can't comment on longevity.
There is quite good dust collection via a plastic shroud which can be left on under the table, but finding a hose to fit it is a chore.
One drawback to both Tritons is the diameter of the opening, which may be too small for very wide bits. There have been quite a few threads about the Triton which a search should dig up.
Jim
Thanks a lot, Jimurock. That's a start.good cuttin' :)Jeff
FWIW, I went with a table that had a plate to which the router is mounted. The plate has 1/4-20 holes pre-drilled and tapped, so I use a couple of machine bolts with fender washers to lift the whole assembly out for bit changes and settings.
I used an older 1/2" Rockwell 2 1/4hp motor, which seems to be sufficient. But, I haven't tried it with overly large bits, either.
Jeffe, here is a link to the router article you were looking for:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuidePDF.aspx?id=27782
I purchased the
Triton 3hp router a few months ago and fitted it to a Kreg router table, no problems and the system is easy to use and works beautiful. For the price I think the Triton is a good deal and a fine router.
Jeffe,I also bought the Triton 3.25 and have been happy. I can turn down the speed with the large panel bits and there is plenty of power. However, regardless of quality and power of the router, I still take small bites/passes...being I'm a devote coward.
Way cool. Excellent info. Thanks a bunch. What you sent is what I expected to find!
:) Jeff
For router table & other applications.
Jeff,
I have a table mounted Triton 2.25. It is a very nice machine for the price.
-Jerry
Jeff,
I second everything Jim wrote in his post 43313.3.
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
go to wood shop demos.com this guy goes step buy step on how to alter a hitachi mv12 for router table use all adjustments and bit changing are done from above the table i am sure you could apply these methods to other simular routers i did it with the mv12 and it works very good
If I were buying a router for a table, I'd give the Jessem/Milwaukee 3.5-hp, motor switch combination.
Jessem has the Milwaukee 3.5-hp router, with the switch and variable speed control on a cable so it is remote from motor, and is mounted outside of the table. No reaching in to adjust the speed.
I have two of the smaller PC's. Nice routers but the plunge sucks.. PERIOD!
I have some Ryobi routers.. Cannot be beat for the price paid. Nice routers but the plunge sucks.. PERIOD!
In a router table (fixed base) (or at one setting of the plunge) they both work very well and then some.
However when using with the plunge (traveling bit).... Both show the same problem.. The bit moves with the dept of cut. Very little, but noticeable, in a plunge cut.
I have even looked at (but never cut with) the Expensive, fancy German routers. You know who they are.. I for one 'thought' (I say thought because I was not allowed to use it!) I 'think' I saw the bit move a bit when advancing the plunge..
I knew it was always there but I will say never caused a problem for general woodworking.. Through tenons a different matter altogether!
Anybody know of a router (whatever router) that has a accurate plunge cut.. I mean spot on!
Edit: I have made a Horizontal router table the works (stationary bit, plunge from the table) but I'd also like to use a factory plunge base that works!
Edit 2! I always knew it was there but really saw the problem when using my LEIGH FMT. Even with the bit runout, still useable joints.. But I would think they could be ALOT better! Tenon is perfect.. I have measured.. The Mortise is a different story!
Edited 9/8/2008 9:11 pm by WillGeorge
Edited 9/8/2008 9:20 pm by WillGeorge
I got the Freud FT3000VCE. It's got 3-1/4hp, above the table bit changes, above the table depth adjustment and above the table engagement of the locking mechanism. For a guy who was really tired of crouching to adjust or change bits, it was just the ticket. Also, I've found Freud's customer service to be absolutely top cabin.
I have the 3.25 HP Triton with a Jessem RoutRLift, on my table saw. With the lift, you can change bits above the table (you must "modify" the shape of the wrench, or buy one already bent). The precision of the lift is almost eerie, after hand-raising my old Ryobi for many years.
Also picked up a set of various diameter inserts for the lift at Woodcraft.
I highly recommend the large Triton...very quiet, slow start, gobs of power...
Oh...the Jessem came with an adjustable fence. I rigged up dust collection with a 45-degree fitting that can be found at about any woodworking store, and attached it to the fence...almost 100% efficient, when I remember to turn on the DC!
I also attached a Delta "baby" stock feeder to a three-sided platform which attaches to the table saw fence with a couple of C-clamps. This allows me to move the stock feeder toward or away from the work, in addition to the other adjustments on the feeder.
kreuzie
If your looking for a router to put into a purchased or made router table I would highly recommend PC 895PK.Here's a bit more information: http://www.josephfusco.org/Reviews/Porter%20Cable%20894PK.htmlhttp://www.josephfusco.org
http://www.constructionforumsonline.com
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