Hello all, I’m new to this, so here goes! I’m building all new furniture for a local restaurant. One of the pieces is a 60″ diameter table. It seats 6 people and the client wants the top to look like slices of pie. With wood movement being a big concern, I am thinking of using 3/4″ MDF overlayed with 1/4″ hardwood plywood for the wedges and divider strips between the wedges. I would finish it with laminate edge banding around the perimeter. I’m asking for a little advice to determine if this combination would address the issue of wood movement seeing as how the MDF and plywood should remain stable. Can you help me???
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Replies
Pelmo,
You are new to this but brilliant already! I had a client come to me years and years ago and he wanted a table that looked like a pie. He gave me all the hardwood and I told him that it would move and break apart. He didn't care. I built it, it came apart.
You are right to consider using plywood and mdf. They will not move like solid woods. Mdf will move however if it gets wet. So you must make sure that your veneer covers it very well and that no moisture can seep into any joints or through the edge banding as it will cause the mdf to expand. I'd stick with a plywood core. It's also much lighter than mdf. Good luck. Gary
Gary, thanks for your response! I'm thinking about making my own veneer, (Hickory), by resawing and running it through my drum sander down to a thickness of 1/16". I think this gives me some freedom when it comes to detail, etc... What is the best glue to use when gluing the veneer to the plywood, and is 3/4" Birch plywood acceptable to use? I'm new to veneering but it doesn't sound too mysterious! I was a Senior Designer before becoming a serious woodworker, so I'm not afraid to try things that are new.
Thanks again for your input!
By the way, my real name is Stan. I just use Pelmo because certain foriegn agents would kill me if they knew I was woodworking. :)
Pelmo your secret is safe with me. 3/4" birch ply is fine, but check the surface to make sure it's not rippling with sanding marks. This can happen and your veneer might telegraph those lumps through. If you can sand the ply just a bit, all the better. The advantage of using MDF is the flatness of the surface, but it's heavy and dusty. So check your ply for a flat face. For small surfaces I'd be happy using Titebond or any yellow glue to lay down my veneers. Larger more time consuming glue-ups will require a slower setting glue like a plastic resin glue that you mix yourself.
Of course you could also use the centuries old stand-by of hide glue which has the marvelous ability to be reversed with ease. Good luck Stan.
Gary
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