Replies

1. 
   nikkiwood | Aug 09, 2004 05:53pm | #1

   I have used a variety of different products over the years, and one that I can recommend highly is the Abatron line.

   http://www.abatron.com/home002.htm

   Their stuff is easy to work with, and I can testify that it holds up over time. I used it about 12-13 years ago on some window sills, and they are still doing fine.

   The down side: it is expensive and has a shelf life (about 1 year).

   Since you are dealing with brick mold, what about simply replacing the rotted piece? You may find that less expensive (and less time consuming) if you are only dealing with a few pieces.

   I would stay away from auto body fillers (e.g. Bondo). Some around here use it, but it has never worked for me (as a long term fix).

1. 
   tv190s | Aug 09, 2004 06:10pm | #2

   I should have added that the door frame/jambs at the bottom

   are also rotting, so while I could replace the brick mold,

   I'd still have to deal with the frame portion which as you

   know isn't easy to just replace.

   I've also looked at Raycrete but it doesn't say much about its ability

   to stop the rot. It just says it can fill in rotted areas and

   that its waterproof.

1. 
   nikkiwood | Aug 09, 2004 07:08pm | #3

   In addition to the epoxy putty, it sounds like you also need an epoxy liquid to stop the rot, and harden the parts that are deteriorated (so the putty will adhere).

   On the Abatron site, look for the stuff called LiquidEpox.

   I am not saying Abatron is the "best" wood restoration product; there are lots of others too. I don't know the Raycrete product you mention, but that doesn't mean anything. Most full service paint stores will sell some sort of wood restoration product, and I think you can safely use whatever they recommend. Aside from buying locally, there is the additional advantage that someone there can usually give you some useful tips and techniques for using the product.

   I would, though, stay away from any fillers formulated for auto body work. The price may be tempting, but they won't last (or at least that's been my experience).

1. 
   tv190s | Aug 09, 2004 07:52pm | #4

   Agreed on the Bondo route. Didn't plan on going there for those reasons. I'll read up on the liquid epox stuff. That is my goal to stop the rot first. That stuff is pricey though....have to see if it apears to be worth it. Thanks for the link.

   Matt

1. 
   silver77 | Aug 10, 2004 05:54am | #6

   Matt,

   I would dig out as much rot as possible and glue in the same kind( and profile) of solid wood with plastic resin glue or west system epoxy

   The west system is versatile and is a self contained and highly recommended rot repairer on its own.

   West system has a booklet available dealing with methods for rot repair wherever you buy it.Lots of woodworkers and boat builders swear by this stuff.

   If you're painting don't be shy to use bondo.I have had excellent results as a final thin topcoat over a rot repair before primer.

   cheers,

   silver

2. 
   EdHarrow | Aug 10, 2004 02:46am | #5

   Try Smith & Co out in the Bay area.  They have a solid following in woodenboat circles for some of their products at least.  I cannot speak as to the viability of their "restoration" stuff, but they have studies...

   http://www.smithandcompany.org/

3. 
   JohnWW | Aug 10, 2004 04:50pm | #7

   Having done a fair amount of this as a builder I would suggest skipping the epoxy route and doing a proper repair by pulling the molding off and replacing it.  While you are at it, if the frame is rotted pull it out and do a real repair there also, not just a cosmetic job.  Epoxy type fixes look good briefly but the wood around the repair will continue to rot and the problem will be back in just a year or two.

   Also figure out where the water causing the rot is coming in, if you don't solve that problem the rot will be back no matter what you do.

   John W.