Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Nov 12, 2008 01:24am | #1

   What do you mean specifically by 'reducer'?

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   jjjjj | Nov 12, 2008 01:30am | #2

   Rockhard table top reducer is a solvent specifically marketed by Behlen for this varnish. I presume it is petroleum based, or possibly very close to mineral spirits.

1. 
   user-83153 | Nov 12, 2008 02:34am | #3

   jjjjj,

   It is mineral spirits. $10.99/quart mineral spirits, but still just mineral spirits.

   I don't know why you would be getting streaks. Is the rag or whatever you are using to apply it possibly contaminated with something? Just wiping varnish on shouldn't produce streaking if it is evenly applied.

               Rob

1. 
   Rich14 | Nov 12, 2008 03:23am | #4

   jjjjj,I agree with Rob. It shouldn't be streaking diluted 50/50, even brushed. It should just flow out and mostly self-level. Did the varnish start to cure in the can to a thicker consistency than when new before you diluted it?Let it harden, level it and try again with fresh varnish diluted 50/50.Better yet, instead of asking a dilute varnish wash to self level (it never really does) to give you the final surface you're after, let what you've got fully harden (it takes all of a month).Then level with 320 grit. Then rub out, going up through abrasive grits to the final appearance you want. 4-0 steel wool or 400 grit wet-or-dry will give a nice matte-semi gloss. 600 grit, 800 grit, will refine that, then auto rubbing compound (red) then auto polishing compound (white) then swirl remover will give a mirror polish.Rich

1. 
   jjjjj | Nov 12, 2008 05:29am | #5

   The varnish was the last of a pint can, which had been opened about 6 times, although I did strain it before making up the 50/50 mix. Do you think this might cause the finish to tack up faster than usual, possibly explaining the marks and streaks? Also, what would be a good pad size for this table top (10 sq. ft.)? Thanks for the polishing steps. I don't think there's any contamination. I sanded to 1000, vacuumed, then dusted with a paper towel. I did not use a tack cloth. For the pad, I used a lint free paper finishing cloth, folded over to about a 1 1/2 width, which I typically use with good results with PTO. Thanks to all.
   John

2. 
   Rich14 | Nov 12, 2008 02:12pm | #6

   "sanded to 1000 grit"There is no need to sand to that fineness of abrasive for leveling or scuff sanding between varnish coats. 320 grit on a firm rubber sanding block is what's needed.Before a final application of a 50/50 mixture, the hardened previous coat should sand out to a completely even scratch pattern at 320, leaving no hills and valleys of finish, removing all irregularities, dust nibs, etc. If the varnish doesn't sand to a fine, dry powder, it's not hard enough yet for leveling.But as I said, once you've achieved such a leveled surface at 320 grit, why try to finish the job with a rubbing varnish version of the finish? Instead, you have the opportunity to rub out the finish, completely under control, to the way you want it to look.At any rate, Rockhard Varnish, diluted 50/50 with mineral spirits (paint thinner) should run ,almost like water, and easily self-level without streaks.Rich

3. 
   jjjjj | Nov 12, 2008 03:16pm | #7

   I had leveled the surface to 320. Since I was wiping on such a thin coat, I was scuff sanding with 1000 to remove the nibs.

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Nov 12, 2008 07:34pm | #8

   To tell you the truth, I've never had real good results using Behlen's as a wiping varnish.

   Howie.........
1. 
   JiminFla | Nov 12, 2008 11:22pm | #9

   I agree with you, Howie.  I think it's best applied with a brush, even diluted by 50%.  If you try to put it on as it comes out of the can, it is way too thick and looks plasticky.  If it's diluted by 50% you can get a good looking finish, but I think it needs to be applied carefully with a brush.

   Jim