Replies

1. 
   SCFrankland | Jun 08, 2003 07:00pm | #1

   I normally use a scraper for removing old finishes though I have used 36 grit in the past to remove old paint.  You have to be careful of lead in old paints so make sure you have your dust collection hooked up and wear a breathing apparatus.  36 Grit sandpaper is also good your rapid stock removal.  I always have several pads kicking around for rough lumber and old dirty lumber before it goes through any edge tools (ie planner/jointer).

   Scott C. Frankland

   "This all could have been prevented if there parents had just used birth control"

1. 
   AhneedHelp | Jun 08, 2003 07:19pm | #2

   Scott -

   Thanks so much for the very fast reply.

   Minimum starting point is what I needed and your answer takes care of that.

   I will make it at least a 36 grit on my purchase of grit assortments.

   As for lead, no concerns with that issue at the moment, although I have a HEPA mask and the Festo dust collector.

   Thanks again !

   Alan

1. 
   SCFrankland | Jun 08, 2003 09:03pm | #3

   A word of advice go slow, 36 grit can really remove stock fast and can leave your finished surface will all sorts of bumps and hollows.  Also buy yourself a creep block it will extend the life of your sandpaper.Scott C. Frankland

   "This all could have been prevented if there parents had just used birth control"

2. 
   Kevin | Jun 08, 2003 09:18pm | #4

   Are the kitchen cabinets veneered? If so you might want to start with something finer than 36 grit or you'll run the risk of burning thru the veneer.

   Something worth considering on the cabinets would be partially removing the old finish to get it flat and clean and then resurface them with your choice of new veneer. That's a popular low budget solution with kitchen cabinets.

   Personally, I would start out with 100 - 120 grit and go up from there on all of it. Once you've removed too much wood it is pretty hard to undo.

   Regards,

   Kevin

1. 
   AhneedHelp | Jun 08, 2003 09:39pm | #5

   Scott and Kevin -

   Thanks for the warnings on grit selection on veneer.

   Certainly don't want to hog off too much, which is why I'm seeking advice.

   I have zero experience with mechanical sanding so I'm tiptoeing with the new Festo sanders.

   (Stripping I've done some.)

   Most of the surfaces except the sills and flooring are stain quality veneer.

   The kitchen cabinets have a very dark brown stain with no outer gloss coat, or at least it appears to lacks one. Maybe it's the grease/grime buildup. I see great potential with refinishing them.

   The doors seem to be 1/2". The cases may be thicker stuff.

   Entry doors are solid core with a lighter honey colored stain and that may have gotten a polyurathane coat at some point. It has a gloss finish to them.

   The Festo chart is difficult to decipher and leaves too much room for interpretation.

   Thank-you for the tips !

1. 
   Kevin | Jun 09, 2003 07:55am | #11

   If it were me... I wouldn't try to sand the old finish off. My personal choice is always to strip as much as I can with either paint stripper or lacquer thinner, along with a scrapper of course. Only after I've removed as much as I can do I break out the sanding equipment. Particularly when dealing with veneer. But, even on doors with the much thicker "veneer" I'll strip as much as possible first. A removed finish can be replaced with a new finish. Removed wood is another story entirely. LOL

   One word of caution when using chemical strippers. They can leave the wood with a greenish tone that may not come out. That's not necessarily a big problem... depending on the color of stain one intends to use on the refinish. Reds, reddish browns and yellows will be negatively impacted by the green tone from the stripper and it'll be hard to achieve the color you want.

   Regards,

   Kevin

1. 
   AhneedHelp | Jun 10, 2003 04:24am | #12

   Kevin -

   Thanks for your advice -

   Ordered Festo's "Brilliant" discs in 100, 150 and 220 grits in 100 sheet boxes.

   Also, I dug up a hardly used paint scraper and tried it on the side of a cabinet to take off the grime and top coat - it made quick work of removing the layers and did an excellent job.

   And the surface seems to be better prepped for using the RO sander.

   Now I'm gonna have to get better acquainted with scrapers.

   There must be a wide variety of them out there which I am ignorant of at the moment besides the paint scraper that I own.

   (Black plastic handle and grip knob type with replaceable/reverseable blades.)

   Thanks for your reply.

1. 
   SCFrankland | Jun 10, 2003 05:22am | #13

   Check out he ball joint scrapers from Lee Valley.  They will make quick work for the finish.

   http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=45784&category=1%2C310&SID=&ccurrency=1Scott C. Frankland

   "This all could have been prevented if there parents had just used birth control"

2. 
   AhneedHelp | Jun 10, 2003 05:42am | #14

   Thanks for the Lee Valley link.

   Having used the crude paint scraper earlier today and seeing how well it worked, I can imagine how versatile the ball-joint scrapers would be.

3. 
   Gretchen | Jun 10, 2003 03:07pm | #15

   You might think about a heat gun also.Gretchen

4. 
   AhneedHelp | Jun 10, 2003 04:20pm | #16

   re - You might think about a heat gun also.

   -----------

   Heat gun, yes.

   The list continues to grow....

   That one I may have to rent for couple hours to get the hang of using it.

   Would that work on stains/varnish ?

3. 
   HowardAcheson | Jun 08, 2003 10:50pm | #6

   BIG CAUTION

   Get the paint tested to determine if it contains any lead. Almost all paints from that time contain lead and sanding them off will create very dangerous dust that will get all over everything and could endanger folks living in the house. Sander dust collection is not effecient ands will provide no protection.

   Most hardware and paint stores sell lead detection kits at a reasonable price.

   Be sure when you test, that you get samples all the way down to the wood. It's the earlier paints that were most dangerous.

1. 
   AhneedHelp | Jun 08, 2003 11:21pm | #8

   re - Get the paint tested to determine if it contains any lead.

   -------

   None of the wood that I want to refinish is painted.

   There is the kitchen wall what has the very smooth painted finish that tested positive for lead.

   TSP will be used for washing it down and painted over with Zinnsser Bullseye 1-2-3 and a top coat over it.

   I do appreciate the warning about lead.

   If I do have to sand any leaded surface, which I am not planning on, Tyvek suit/hood and HEPA respirator is standing by as well as a HEPA catridge filter equipped ShopVac and the Festo vac.

   (The Festo filter definitely is not HEPA rated, which is too bad.)

   Yes, this leaded paint alarms is....alarming and nothing to scoff at.

4. 
   RANGERP75R | Jun 08, 2003 11:05pm | #7

   Ahneedhelp

      I would try some various grits by hand to see where I wanted to go with the RO. If you're not used to a RO, it gives a certain pressure on the stock. With hand-sanding you can go lightly and increase pressure to see what grits will work. Watch the veneer. It goes away in a hurry with low grit paper.

      I don't envy you. I had rather build from scratch than take old finish off. I personally don't use anything below 100 grit on my RO. I might go 80 in a pinch. Just a personal thang. I would do as the other poster suggested and scrape off what I could. If not that finish will load that paper quick.

   Good Luck with this chore...

   sarge..jt

1. 
   AhneedHelp | Jun 08, 2003 11:29pm | #9

   re - I don't envy you. I had rather build from scratch than take old finish off. I personally don't use anything below 100 grit on my RO. I might go 80 in a pinch. Just a personal thang. I would do as the other poster suggested and scrape off what I could. If not that finish will load that paper quick.

   -------------

   Thanks for the suggestions.

   Building from scratch will probably be the next step after I get fed up with trying to refinish.

   Cabinets are well made and I hate to rip them out.

   Not furniture grade, mind you, but good quality nevertheless.

   This is probably the first time someone like me came along to freshen them up since they were built in the '50s on-site when the house was built. (The cabinet plans is one of pages on the blueprint which I am fortunate to have gotten when we bought the house.)

   I will perhaps start with the 100 grit as you suggested but will test it on a out-of-the-way spot just to be cautious.

   Thanks for the tips !

2. 
   AhneedHelp | Jun 08, 2003 11:32pm | #10

   re - I would do as the other poster suggested and scrape off what I could.

   -------

   When you say scrape off, I have an assortment for paint removal but not certain if there are other types for varnish/poly.

   Any supplier web site I can visit if scrapers are task specific ?

   Thanks !