Toolmakers,
I’m planning on building my first woodworking tool, a simple square. I plan on making the square from 1/8 brass and rosewood. I know that epoxy doesn’t stick to brass to well, so how does one rivet the blade to the handle? I am going to use small screws to attach 3/16 wear strips to the sides. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Replies
Doug, there are little countersunk headed brass rivets that are used for knife handles. After clamping the the blade to the handle and rechecking it's squareness, two or three accurate holes are bored through the handle and blade, then counter sunk on both sides.
The two piece male and female rivets are pressed through and 'Set' with an arbor press. (Or a good vise) Since the counter sinks in the wood are a bit shallower than the rivet heads, when all is secure, you'll have to file/sand the heads flush.
Wipe the finished square down with lacquer thinner and a clean rag ,then spray with Krylon clear lacquer . Stein.
Edited 3/2/2004 1:44:30 AM ET by steinmetz
Stein -
Sorry to jump on this guy's subject with a different question but you mentioned wiping down with lacquer thinner. Would that work to remove the tarnish off an old existing brass square blade? A friend gave me several beautiful rosewood and brass squares, 90 & 45 degree along with two bevel squares that are somewhat tarnished. I used 0000 steel wool to clean one up but it took quite a bit of elbow grease. Would like to shine them up a bit.
...........
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
Dennis, The reason for the lacquer thinner is to remove any oil/finger prints or crud before spraying. To polish up old brass, use a Scotchbrite wheel, (Fine) attached to an arbor to fit your electric drill/drillpress/lathe/bench grinder
The arbors are sold by Sears
After polishing with Scotchbrite wheel, switch to a flannel buffing wheel charged with Jeweler's rouge
These items also from Sears The scotchbrite wheel is available from Mc Masters-Carr It is costly but well worth it and will last for years (Also great for aluminum/steel/copper)
The jeweler's rouge comes in a package of four polishing compounds;
(Red) Rouge finest for brass, gold, silver
(White) Lime? For stainless steel/white metal/plastic.
(Brown) Tripoly used on brass(Not gold/silver) for fast removal of tarnish before final polish with rouge.
(Black) Emery Fast removal of rust/ tarnish/ deep scratches on iron/steel/cast iron, before using white for finish.
Also , if you can find it, Crocus Cloth (Looks like a sheet of fine emery cloth (Reddish-Purple in color)
It's Rouge on a sheet. Used to polish gold, silver, brass , to a bright sheen by hand rubbing Stein.
Edited 3/3/2004 9:33:09 AM ET by steinmetz
Edited 3/3/2004 9:36:08 AM ET by steinmetz
By the way, epoxy does adhere to brass very well. It's not dependent on porous material like wood in order to work.
Jackplane -
What's your secret for getting epoxy to adhere to brass? I've had a little better luck using 5 minute epoxy, but never any luck using slow setting. After a few weeks the brass just pops off of the epoxy. Even tried scoring the surface of the brass. I've tried various different types of epoxy.
Douglesso -
When assembling with rivits, I'd still use epoxy not so much for its adherance properties but for void filling. Would help to keep the corner stable. I have several sizes of the brass rivits that steinmetz mentioned and they work well.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
No real secret... I use a slow setting marine epoxy (90 min. +/-). It'll bond brass to wood or other material. I've never had much luck with the 5 minute stuff strength-wise, so I don't use it. But I still clamp all parts involved.
Edited 3/3/2004 9:49:27 AM ET by JACKPLANE
Can you give me the brand name and where to order it?
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
Yeah, but I'll have to get back to you tommorrow on that; I'm not near my shop. I would think any marine supply store would have it or something similar, if you're by the water.
No marine supply store nearby. Much easier to order it by mail. If you have one that works, then I'd just as soon stick to that brand.
What do you do to prepare the brass?
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com has a great epoxy selection and good customer service. We use about 20 gallons a year.
Rick -
I have System 3, T88 and it won't bond to brass worth a poop. I will use maybe 1/2 pt total per year. West Epoxy smallest quanity is one qt each resin and harder.
I've tried sanding the brass, burnishing the brass, scoring the brass, cleaning it with lacquer thinner and acetone and never have got a long lasting bond with T88.
Also tried JBWeld and it was worse. Devcon 5 minute epoxy bought at Walmart is a little better.
I first got into this making small brass sided block planes. Finally settled on using the 5 minute epoxy and screws through the sides. Used various exotic woods. With the T88, after a week or so, you could peck the plane on the side and it would go 'tink' and the epoxy would break loose. It would adhere well to the wood, but not the brass.
Am I using the wrong kind of brass?
Oops, just checked. West does come in small quantities.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
Edited 3/3/2004 11:55:27 AM ET by PlaneWood
I've worked as a metalsmith for awhile and never found epoxy to be bombprooff for metal. Used it on brass, stainless, etc We always roughed the side that was to be glued of course. I think a mechanical fastener is far more reliable especially over time. Used heat plenty of times to break an epoxy bond. I think the rivet is a great way to stick brass to wood. We use System 3 in the shop I'm in now. At the metalsmith job we used West epoxy. Jamestown carries several different brands.
Edited 3/3/2004 12:09:43 PM ET by rick3ddd
It's West Systems epoxy. No prep needed on the brass.
Jackplane - which hardener do you use? 206? I think that's the slow one.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
It's either 206 or 207.Your dealer should be able to help you on that one,...gotta run.
Where do you get the rivets? I've seen a flat, non-countersunk type on lee-valley, but no countersunk two peice compression rivets anywhere.
I got mine at Lee Valley.
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.asp?page=40386&category=3,41306,41327&ccurrency=2&SID=
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
How strong are those rivets? I just assembled a miniature dinghy to be used as a cradle and used copper nails and roves to attache the planks to one another...a great fun process. But the rove side is far from flush.
Don't know. Never tested their strength.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
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