Replies

1. 
   DavidxDoud | Feb 04, 2004 02:46am | #1

   Suggestions?

   a new rip blade for your circular saw,  a sharp rip hand saw...

2. 
   johnhardy | Feb 04, 2004 04:33am | #2

   I'd rip wide of the line with the circular saw and clean it up with a router and a very straight and rigid straight edge. Of course, a new carbide blade might be in order (to echo another poster).

   John

3. 
   AhneedHelp | Feb 04, 2004 07:42am | #3

   Why not make a zero clearance rip guide for your saw ?

   I own the Festo ATF-55 and the guiderail, but a homemade version would work just as well.

   I think there is a video demo at either FHB or FWW site by Gary Katz.

4. 
   AhneedHelp | Feb 04, 2004 07:51am | #4

   http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/hvt041.asp

   "Cutting plywood without a table saw", a video demo by Gary Katz.

5. 
   kensshop | Feb 04, 2004 03:42pm | #5

   When I'm someplace other than my shop and need a good, straight cut from my circular saw, I'll use a piece of 1/2" plywood as a "fence".  Obviously, you need to true up the edge first and know the distance from the cut line.  This, with the previous recommendations about a sharp rip blade, should do a fine job.  Good luck, Ken

6. 
   BG | Feb 04, 2004 03:51pm | #6

   Todd,

   There are some plans out on the web for mounting your circular saw in a jig upside down and replicating a table saw functionally.  I've put a new blade (freud) in my circular saw and it cuts ply beautifully....but ripping boards which are not very wide to begin with would seem to be a different issue...given that the circular saw base needs space for support as well as the straight edge if ripping from the top side.

   The plans that I have seen for converting the circular saw into a TS include a half sheet of MDF on top and a frame underneath that the circular saw sits in and can be clamped....On the top side a straight edge can serve as a fense...  this is a very rough description....but the whole thing can sit on a couple of saw horses or equivalent....good luck 
7. 
   brianmexico | Feb 04, 2004 05:17pm | #7

   Could be that the base of your circular saw is not completely parallel to the blade. You mentioned deflection and this shouldn't be a problem if you're freehanding it, so I'm assuming that you've already tried the fence method? Try tweaking your circular saw to straighten things up.

8. 
   MatthewSchenker | Feb 04, 2004 06:06pm | #8

   Todd,

   Take a look at Festool products. I use the Festool AT55E saw with the 8-foot guide rail, and I love the results. I don't even own a table saw -- never have and never will. The only table saw I would even consider is a Euro-style machine, but they are outide my budget!

   Here's the link to follow:

   http://www.festool-usa.com

9. 
   AlanWS | Feb 04, 2004 06:22pm | #9

   Start with a good carbide blade. Go slow, or you might want to make the cut in more than one pass.

   Here's a link showing how we used a circular saw and a jig to make 90 rip cuts each 20' long: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~durgerian/id5.html

   Click on the diagram. The brad used as a splitter in this jig keeps both new edges clean.

   Here's a link showing you how to make jigs like those in the video posted. http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00035.asp

   I find I get a better cut with the zero clearance base jig (my first link,) but the straightedge jigs are more convenient for a few cuts.

1. 
   toddhunter | Feb 06, 2004 12:12am | #11

   Thanks for all the great suggestions.  I'm not sure I want to make a table saw out of my circ. but I do like the canoe site with the jig plans.  I may also try a new blade and tuning up the saw.  Thanks again.  Todd

1. 
   forestgirl | Feb 06, 2004 03:29am | #12

   The fact that you're getting burning makes the idea of using a shim an excellent one.forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

1. 
   toddhunter | Feb 06, 2004 09:51pm | #13

   I decided to use my clamp-it's back to back, with the circ saw clamped in the top clamp.  The set up with the various wood backers etc. was a little tricky, but it worked pretty well until the end when I got some drift again.  This approach has potential.  Thanks, Todd

2. 
   brianmexico | Feb 08, 2004 10:06pm | #16

   Hey Todd,

   Here's another technique that can make cutting those maple boards a little easier. Put your fence set up at the proper distance from your cut line. Instead of biting off more then you can chew try cutting the rip in two or three passes. For the first pass adjust your saw to cut 3/8" into the surface of the board. With the next pass you can take out the remainder of the boards thickness and the first cut that you made will help guide the blade and keep deflection to a minimum. You could also do this in 1/4" passes but you may start heating things up too much and get some burning from the frequent passes. I recomend a good freud 7 1/4"inch blade with not too many teeth (this will also cause burning). Clean things up with either a sharp jointer plane or a guided roller bearing router bit and a straight edge.

   Good Luck

   Brian

1. 
   toddhunter | Feb 09, 2004 11:40pm | #17

   You guys are great.  One assumes I have the blade in backwards (I know it happens, but not this time).  The other assumes I am more well equipped than I am (I have no jointer).  I'm somewhere in the middle.  Nevertheless, the suggestions are welcome, and well worth trying.  I particularly like the idea of taking several passes with the saw.

   I ripped another board using my plunge router.  I clamped at the ends, then using an edge guide, I cut all the way through in several passes, up to the clamps.  Then I removed one clamp to finish one end.  I didn't rout the other end for fear the waste would go flying.  I used my pull saw to cut the last couple of inches.  It worked.  Finally, on a small piece of oak, I ripped using a 12" miter saw, which for the first time, bogged some, but did not fail me.  Todd

1. 
   forestgirl | Feb 10, 2004 09:28pm | #18

   Dan's statement (question actually) started out "By any chance..." -- that's not looking like he was "assuming" anything.  A "jointer plane" isn't a jointer (as in Jet, Delta, Powermatic), it's a hand plane.

   Glad you found a technique that worked.forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

2. 
   toddhunter | Feb 11, 2004 12:57am | #19

   You are correct on all counts.  I didn't mean to sound offended (or to give offense), I just thought the contrast between the two postings was mildly amusing.  Really, I appreciate all the help I can get.  See my new posting about "almost injured".  Todd

3. 
   forestgirl | Feb 11, 2004 02:20am | #20

   Yikes, was that you?!  OK, I'm goin' back over to that one and post my .02 worth.  Glad you weren't hurt too bad!forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

10. 
    CRAIGCONEY_M | Feb 05, 2004 03:26am | #10

    if the kerf is closing on you, try inserting a shim to keep it open.  Also, use a rip blade with as few teeth as possible.

11. 
    JMartinsky | Feb 07, 2004 12:55am | #14

    Buy a tablesaw or even a quality bandsaw. Be careful with those circular saws!

    John

12. 
    jackiechan | Feb 07, 2004 11:43pm | #15

    Todd,

    By any chance, is the blade mounted backwards on the circular saw?  Remember, on a circular saw the blade's teeth are pointed up towards the ceiling which pulls the saw down onto the work.  (When cutting, the blade spins counter-clockwise - opposite of the direction you're cutting in).  A backwards blade would most definitely cause burning and deflection.

    Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

    
    

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    Edited 2/7/2004 11:39:34 PM ET by Jackie Chan