Resurfacing a tablesaw – Any info?
fourquarter
| Posted in Power Tools and Machinery on
Recently bought a vintage Powermatic and the top is showing its age. I am considering having the top resurfaced. Has anyone ever had this done? How difficult is it to find a shop to do it and most importantly what would something like that cost?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Kelley Hamby
Replies
Just about any machine shop should have a surface grinder. You're probably looking at about a $200-$300 job. Are you sure you need to take such drastic measures? If the "damage" is only cosmetic - i.e. scratches, etc. - just buff it out with some steel wool and apply a coat of good wax. When you start grinding, you're removing iron and weakening the castings. Such machining should really only be done if the top has somehow become warped.
Jeff
I second the motion of dealing with the surface by taking wet dry 100 grit and a wood block. Lube the surface with some kind of light oil (machine) or (WD40) and pop a beer and watch monday night football while you sand the surface flat. A thin strip of wood with the same sandpaper oil can lightly sand away the rust off of the surface of the slots. Careful on the slots as it could get sloppy.
I bought an old rockwell contractor table saw model that someone used as a place to store wet laundry (so it appeared). After an hour of the sanding, periodically wiping off the rust slurry with paper towels and reoiling, re-papering the surface, it came out fresh and positively shiny. As you get thru the first layer of crud drop grits to 200 or so and it gets much finer. You'll be doing that anyway if you get it remachined as the machineing isn't smooth unless they polish it. If your block of wood is flat enough you will even see where the dips are in the casting.
After you are thru, clean it with alcohol or paint thinner (no the beer hasn't enough alcohol) and shine it clean with the paper towels. Then just hit it with a coat of car wax.
PS don't forget to wax the fence rails.
Unless it's warped badly you will be wasting your money. It will take a machine shop that specializes in grinding. There's literally hundreds of machine shops in my area but only a few that could handle anything the size of a tablesaw. The blanchard grinder would be the most likely grinder to be found at the size to do a surface that large and it's more involved than simply plunking it down and turning on the electromagnet. The magnet is strong enough to distort the top unless set up properly so you could have a top in worse shape than when you started. I've had a number of jointer tables and such done over the years but only because it was necessary because the warp was beyond acceptable tolerance. I think PM allows .015" or a bit more. I know my PM 66 just squeaked by their accepted tolerance. Fine sandpaper and some scotch brite will suffice in your case most likely.
Rick
Edited 12/16/2002 6:12:00 AM ET by Rick at Arch. Timber and Millwork
Kelley
Sandpaper and a block of wood will clean one up nicely. I would take it down to 220 grit at least, then finish up with crocus cloth. I would wash it down with kerosene and wipe it dry and put a coat of baby powder on it. I keep baby powder on my saws when I'm not using them. When I'm ready to use em I either vac or brush off the powder, I don't rust.
God Bless Happy Holidays
les
Baby powder has stinkin' perfumes in it. I can't stand the smell. Where can you find unadulterated talc powder? Is corn starch an acceptable substitute?
- les "$900 poorer, but have PM66 without motor" b
>> Is corn starch an acceptable substitute?
No. Corn starch will attract and hold airborne moisture. Just exactly what you don't want.
Do a web search for "unscented talcum powder".
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