Replies

1. 
   saschafer | May 07, 2008 06:09am | #1

   After resawing wet lumber on my bandsaw, I remove the blade and clean it, thoroughly vacuum out all of the nooks and crannies, and leave the covers open to ensure that any moisture dries out as quickly as possible. Doing that, I haven't noticed any long-term problems.

   -Steve

    

1. 
   pita | May 07, 2008 06:16am | #2

   what do you clean you bs blades with and do you coat them with anything else?

1. 
   saschafer | May 07, 2008 06:50am | #3

   I clean blades with blade cleaner. ;-)

   I'm currently using Blade & Bit Cleaner from PMS Products (which, you have to admit, is an interesting name for a company...), mostly because I have some on hand. You can get similar products from Rockler, Woodcraft, etc. Or you can use Simple Green, which you can get at your supermarket or hardware store.

   I sometimes spray blades with DriCote, but most of the time I forget....

   -Steve

    

2. 
   genec | May 08, 2008 06:37am | #9

   I clean all my blades with spray on oven cleaner works good and comes out of the wife's budget

1. 
   forestgirl | May 08, 2008 06:15pm | #13

   "I clean all my blades with spray on oven cleaner works good and comes out of the wife's budget."  If she uses Simple Green, you could get the same results, both physically and fiscally, with less skin irritation. :-)forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

2. 
   AZMO | May 07, 2008 04:00pm | #4

   I recently sliced up 8 logs of mesquite wood that was very wet on my 14" power matic. First log I did not use a blade cleaner, and scorched the blade. Next log I used a blade cleaner as it was running, worked great. I have heard others use Boeing Shield lube. Whatever, just make sure the blade does not load up debris. After every slice, I would again use the blade cleaner and a small brass brush and hand turn the blade in reverse to clean it. My cast iron top is a bit discolored now, but that is easy to rub out and rewax.

   Here is AZ, things dry quick so I did not worry much about the moisture.

   The wood was worth the effort, pretty interesting grain and color, sitting stickered and clamped with all thread. Will see next fall how it works.

    

                     

   -----------_o

   ---------_'-,>

   -------(*)/ (*)   http://www.EarthArtLandscape.com

3. 
   JohnWW | May 07, 2008 04:15pm | #5

   Suffolk Machinery sells a blade designed for sawing green wood that cuts far better than conventional blades and probably won't need all the cleaning that other posters have talked about.

   When you are done just vacuum out the machine and wash off the cast iron table top with a water based cleaner like Simple Green to remove sap that can lead to corrosion After drying off the top, apply furniture wax or a spray wax meant for machine surfaces to prevent rusting.

   John White

1. 
   AZMO | May 08, 2008 04:23am | #6

   John,

   As usual you have some insights. They do make some of the best blades out there. But have you read their recomendations? After my hard days work on wet logs, I concur with Suffolk, lubricate to save wear and tear on the machine and ease the cutting operation.

   AZMO

    

   CHOOSING THE PROPER BAND SAW BLADE LUBRICATION

   NEVER USE WATER as a lubricant on band saw blades. Water is NOT a lubricant and is the WRONG thing to use for many reasons.

   For the woodworker using 1" and 1 1/4" bands, not only is water unacceptable as a lubricant, but it also rusts the bands causing deep pitting, and inappropriate chip swelling. This prematurely destroys the body of the band and its gullets. It also dry rots your tires or V-belts.

   For proper lubrication mix HIGH ADHESION CHAIN SAW BAR OIL, with 50% kerosene or diesel fuel. Apply the solution with a spray bottle to BOTH sides of the band about once every four minutes, while the machine is running. When this lubrication is applied, the sound of cutting decreases over 50%. DO NOT APPLY AGAIN until the sound of cutting starts increasing. I guarantee you will be amazed! Longer life; No pitch buildup; No rusted or pitted bands! A great delivery system is the 12 volt windshield washer assembly out of an old car!

   "Pam" spray-on vegetable shortening is a great lubrication for 3/4" WIDTH AND UNDER band saw blades on vertical saws. (EXAMPLE: Delta, Grizzly, Jet, etc.) Unplug the machine. Spray Pam vegetable shortening on a rag and wipe on both sides of the blade while turning the upper wheel by hand. You will  hear a 50% sound reduction when cutting.

   A band saw blade is a tool. You must lubricate both sides!

   In both cases, we know for a fact that lubrication of the body of the band increases band life by over 30%. Applied sparingly, you can cut grade lumber with NO staining to your product.                  <!----><!----><!---->

   -----------_o

   ---------_'-,>

   -------(*)/ (*)   http://www.EarthArtLandscape.com

1. 
   forestgirl | May 08, 2008 06:11am | #7

   I've used the PAM, it works well and doesn't stink like kerosene-mixed stuff.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   Jimurock | May 08, 2008 06:13am | #8

   My wife says it stinks when you cook with it.  ;>)

   Jim

1. 
   forestgirl | May 08, 2008 06:13pm | #12

   "My wife says it stinks when you cook with it.  ;>)"  Ahhhh, but has she tried cooking with chainsaw bar oil and kerosene?  It's all relative, ya know.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

2. 
   AZMO | May 08, 2008 07:26am | #10

   I wonder if this will turn into a shellac debate, which PAM, the baking version (Knot), the butter flavor, the original.... Two layers better than one?

   I will try that out for the next log batch. Next weekend, someone told me this is Mothers day weekend, so I will behave myself for a change.

   Seriously, though, mesquite is some nasty stuff to cut, the inner hardwood is nice, but the outside white wood loves to shred and string. A royal pain on the lower guides, the brush on the lower wheel etc. I do wish I had room for a real horizontal saw and enough material to justify buying one. It would be a whole lot simpler.

   I have seen your post before on these Wolf Blades, any preference for the above material, or should I call for their recomendations?

   AZMO                  <!----><!----><!---->

   -----------_o

   ---------_'-,>

   -------(*)/ (*)   http://www.EarthArtLandscape.com

1. 
   saschafer | May 08, 2008 04:39pm | #11

   "...the outside white wood loves to shred and string. A royal pain on the lower guides, the brush on the lower wheel etc."

   You might want to try using a zero-clearance insert. You end up with more stringy shavings on top of the table, and you have to clear them away more frequently, but at least they don't get into the guides, etc.

   -Steve

    

2. 
   forestgirl | May 08, 2008 06:19pm | #14

   I always recommend new users call Suffolk Machinery and talk to them about their Timber Wolf blades.  They will ask for specific info on the kind(s) of task(s) you're anticipating and make recommendations for your saw.  Someone mentioned above about a green-wood specific blade I believe.

   Phone number is (800) 234-7297 forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

2. 
   dkellernc | May 08, 2008 06:27pm | #15

   A thought - Chain saw bar oil is also miscible in low-odor mineral spirits - it has considerably less odor.

3. 
   PeteBradley | May 09, 2008 05:17am | #16

   The chain saw oil mix directions are intended for Suffolk's horizontal band mills. I can't imagine using that stuff indoors or getting it on my tires.Using a band with a low tooth count (like 3) is important. Running dust collection helps too by reducing the amount of damp dust that winds up in your machine. Empty the dust can out right away though or you'll create a mold farm.I occasionally use a little paraffin wax on the band, but that's about it. The table is waxed with beeswax furniture wax (no silicone). When I'm done I wipe down the table and vacuum up all the wet swarf. White oak seems to stain/rust more than most if you leave it around. It also gums up bands. I don't use water based cleaners on the table except during restoration but if you do, be sure to get it off immediately. Pete

   Edited 5/8/2008 10:18 pm ET by PeteBradley

1. 
   AZMO | May 09, 2008 05:31am | #17

   Yes I caught that also, Saw Chain oil seemed a bit aggresive for a small saw.  I used some Boeing Shield lube and that works great. Important note is that it does not degrade rubber materials and will not affect bearings. I use it for a bicycle chain lube for wet weather rides. Worked great for logs also. But I still needed to clean the blade with pitch remover. I would be pretty sure a maple log cut different than my mesquite. I have cut wet Doug Fir on it, and that was no issue. I am going to give the PAM idea a whirl also.

   AZMO                  <!----><!----><!---->

   -----------_o

   ---------_'-,>

   -------(*)/ (*)   http://www.EarthArtLandscape.com

4. 
   JohnWW | May 09, 2008 05:53pm | #18

   AZMO,I hadn't seen that before, and I trust their advice because it is based on actual experience. I'd be inclined to try some of the other lubes recommended Boeshield or paraffin rather than the Pam. Thanks for the correction.John White