This is first post, so bear with me. I’m posting because I need some help. I purchased a fairly heavy duty band saw because I want to do some resawing. My old 12 in. Delta wasn’t able to handle the load. I cannot seem to set this machine up to get a good result. I can’t even get a bad result. I have the guides set properly, according to the manufacturer, tension has a good twang, drift angle is set on the resaw fence. As i start a cut, the blae pulls the piece away from the fense. If I keep adequate pressure on the piece to keep it on the fence, the center of the blade bows toward the fence. The cut is then correct thickness at the top and bottom but significantly thinner in the center. Any ideas?
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Replies
Trouble
Pulling. Factory blade on saw ? They usually put the worst blades on, yours is probably sharperon one side and the set may not be the same on both sides. Get an Olsen AllPro or Timberwolf blade.
Bowed cut. Not enough tension
Thanks Steve,
It is the factory blade and replacing it is my nest chore. Looking closely, it doesnt appear to be sharp and has almost no set.
jos
Resaw
Don't get too wide of a blade. I use a 1/2 Timberwolf on my Delta 14" with good results. By a bandsaw book and use it to adjust and maintian your saw.
Or you can just go to http://www.bandsawblog.com for a whole lot of information about band saw machine and band saw blade basics. I learned a lot from their articles.
A number of people get good results with highland Hardware's woodslicer brand blade, but it does dull quicker than others, according to posts. I like Timberwolf - customer service is excellent and willing to take time to answer your questions, determine your objectives and make a recommendation. Others swear by carbide tip blades - they last longer but are more expensive to purchase.
The saw is behaving exactly as if the drift angle of the resaw fence is set wrong. The blade wants to pull the workpiece off the fence; and when it can't (because you hold the wood tight against the fence), the blade instead pulls itself toward the fence. It bows the cut in the center because the lower saw guide it trying to pull it back into line at the bottom.
The less set there is in the sawblade, the more precisely the fence angle must be set up so that the body of the bandsaw blade does not drag against either side of the saw kerf. At one time you could get bandsaw blades resharpened. With each sharpening they lost set; and the angle of the resaw fence became more critical, but they cut smoother. Also, the wider the blade the more critical the angle is. You don't state if you went to a wider blade when you went to a heavier saw, but this will affect how careful you must be about machine setup.
You can always mount a circular ripsaw and expect it to cut like the saw you took off the arbor. Thin kerf band resaws aren't like that. Each one has its own set, and the machine must be set up to match it.
How It Can Be
What I wound up with was the Laguna bandsaw and the resaw king blade. Quite a wide blade by the way. The saw has very precise ceramic blade guides with lots of surface area to guide the blade. Not quick to set up or change blades but you get better with practice.
The blade is so precisely made that you can resaw with a tall flat fence and do not need to allow for "drift" just set it up parallel to the blade and saw. Definitely worth reading Laguna's owner's manual and do what they say. They got it down !
From my experience you don't need a special fence or the pin fence. What makes the difference is the Laguna blade and their guides. I like their bandsaw because the table and tilt mechanism is more solid than any body else (good when I have a hundred pound plank sitting on it). Even though this blade is really wide I don't have the tension way up. The owner of Laguna says just run enough tension and no more and he is right. Allot of tension just beats up the saw and does nothing to help. This blade is three or four teeth per inch. A very coarse blade with deep gullets is critical. But with this marvelous blade the cut is still very smooth. Impressive what Laguna has done with this blade.
You can watch on line video of their bandsaw and how to use it presented by the owner of the company. Paper thin veneer just to show off !
If you go here:
http://www.lagunatools.com/bandsaw-lt14se#
Then click on the video called "The Perfect Cut ".
The saw has much heavier bearing/wheel shafts, can't beat the genuine Baldor motor. Good stuff
I have regularly resawn ten inch, dry, bubinga and purple heart no problem. Some of the hardest of the regularly worked species.
Be sure to use the search function here on this Knots web site. There are tons of past discussions here on this subject.
Be aware that in the past there may have been a need for all this setting the fence for drift and holding one's tung just right while ripping and resawing.
That is in the past. Now days one can just set up a modern band saw square and rip or resaw just as one would a table saw.
You can get the Laguna ceramic guides and resaw king blade and put them on your saw.
Re-Saw
Google Alex Snodgrass and watch his video. This will show you how to set up your bandsaw so you can forget about drift and other problems. It is a good tutorial for everyone
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