Replies

1. 
   Mackwood | Apr 01, 2009 05:59pm | #1

   For dry lumber I use either the 1/2" or the 3/4" Woodslicer from Highland Hardware depending on the width of the material.  I have heard rave reviews about the Lenox resaw blades but have not used them.

   I have an older MM16 and the blade is 149".  Double check before you order.

   Enjoy!

   Mack

   "Close enough for government work=measured with a micrometer, marked with chalk and cut with an axe"

2. 
   DogwoodDesign | Apr 01, 2009 06:08pm | #2

   I use the Woodmaster CT on my MM16, works great! I know others that use the Trimaster, both from Lenox, and they get great results. If you set up the saw as best you can, you can get thin veneer ready for glue-up. I've used the Highland Hardware blades, they don't seem to last very long, but they do cut nicely at first.

1. 
   sleepydad | Apr 01, 2009 06:25pm | #3

   I have been looking at the tri-master.

   do you run a 1" or what? 

    

1. 
   DogwoodDesign | Apr 01, 2009 06:45pm | #4

   Yes, I have the 1" Woodmaster CT. Just hang the teeth off the front of the wheels. I got it from these folks: http://www.spectrumsupply.com/ No complaints, good price, good service. (No, I don't work for them!)Hope that helps,
   Jeff

3. 
   BOBABEUI | Apr 01, 2009 07:14pm | #5

   I have a first gen MM16, I used a Lennox Tri-Master 1" for serious resawing. The Tri-master is awesome, understand that the Woodmaster CT is quite the contender also

1. 
   sleepydad | Apr 01, 2009 09:32pm | #6

   tempting. but wow they are spendy.  $200 is a lot to spend on a band it had better last a long time.

   I used to think forrest blades where overpriced until I got one and have never used anything else since.

   thanks.

1. 
   danmart | Apr 03, 2009 03:07am | #15

   If  you plan to do a bunch of resawing on the bandsaw and you want the best results, the Lenox blades are the way to go. I have used the Highland stuff. It does a good job for a short period and then they dull out.

   Lenox makes 3 good blades. I have used 2 bimetal blades on my 20" bandsaw to cut more than 1000 feet of walnut stock. Very happy.

   When it came to a 16" wide by 36" long piece of walnut crotch that  I needed to be spot on, I called on a friend with the trimaster. No doubt in my mind-- the trimaster is a major step up from the bimetal and it is worth every penny in quality of cut. If you can afford a trimaster -  get one they are top of the line and you will be amazed how long they hold their edge.

   Like you, the price is a bit daunting but I can tell you from use, they are realllllllllllllllllllllllllllllly nice.

   dan

1. 
   DJK | Apr 03, 2009 05:00am | #16

   A quick story. I had ordered a Lenox Trimaster 3/4" 3tpi on Monday.
   Today my boat builder neighbor came over to resaw a 10/4, 10' long, 11"wide slab of khaya. I asked him to wait because the Lenox blade should show up today or tomorrow. He couldn't wait, so we set up my Crescent Heavy 20" saw for the 3/8" cuts using a Timberwolf 3/4" 3tpi.About 6' into the first slice the ups truck drops off the Lenox blade. A quick change of the blade and back at it. OMG what a difference. Feed rate increased three fold and so did the cut quality. 3 tpi is a bit fine for an 11" cut so I'm going to order the Woodmaster CT 1tpi and give it a try. The Woodmaster is less expensive than the Trimaster, $70 less for my 134" blade. The Lenox rep said the Woodmaster should last longer than the Trimaster when cutting wood and has a thinner kerf.

4. 
   RickLoDico | Apr 01, 2009 11:52pm | #7

   The blades on my MM16 are 154". I pretty much exclusively use Lenox carbide and bimetal blades. Either will resaw what you want to do.

1. 
   sleepydad | Apr 02, 2009 04:01pm | #10

   which one of the bi-metal?

   http://www.lenoxtools.com/enUS/Products/BI-METAL.html

   by carbide do you mean the tri-master?

   http://www.lenoxtools.com/enUS/Product/Tri-master.html

   I think I'm going to try the tri-master 1" vari-tooth 3/4

    

    

1. 
   RickLoDico | Apr 02, 2009 04:18pm | #11

   More specifically, I use a 1/2" Diemaster bimetal and a 1" Trimaster carbide. The 1/2" is on the BS most of the time as it will resaw very well. The 1" goes on when there is wider material or a lot to do.

1. 
   sleepydad | Apr 02, 2009 04:43pm | #12

   I have been operating in a similar fashion.

   1/2" for most stuff.  1" for wider material or logs/cants.

   have you tried the vari-tooth?  or do use the standard tpi?

   I think 3 tpi is about right for what I'm doing.  but I was wondering about the vari-tooth producing a better cut surface.

1. 
   RickLoDico | Apr 02, 2009 05:03pm | #13

   I've never tried the vari tooth. I don't think you can find a 3 tpi 1/2" Lenox though. I think they're all 4 tpi. Not completely sure on that.

2. 
   sleepydad | Apr 02, 2009 05:21pm | #14

   http://www.lenoxtools.com/enUS/Product/DIEMASTER_2.html

   hook tpi 1/2" 3 tpi

   for contoured cuts I think more tpi is a better way to go in general.  I'm usually not cutting arcs in 7" thick stock.

   thanks.  If I remember I'll post a follow up once I get a chance to try the vari tpi.

3. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Apr 03, 2009 04:08pm | #17

   I use the Lennox bi-metal 3 tpi on my 18" Steel City, sleepydad. I used to use the Woodslicer but as stated... it won't stay sharp as long. But.. I use the Classic 3/4" which I feel is right for my saw. I'm well over 1000' linear feet on current blade and it's still going. I pay about $48 a blade for mine from my source which means I can purchase 4 or them for the price of one Tri-master so... it puts me ahead in the long run. IMO.. ther is not a major difference in smoothness of cut between the bi and the carbide. Not enough to matter anyway unless you have some very high priced exoctic but again.. I have never seen any re-saw cut come off any saw ready to take finish before prepping.

   And interesting note... I demonstrated machines for Steel City at IWF last fall. The SC 18" I used had the SC blade which is a Timber-wolf. I couldn't get it tensioned right and basically wasted the first day of the Show trying. I brought my own Lennox bi-metal the next day.. installed it and the rest of the week for pure pleasure. Many applaud the TW blade but... I am just not one of those for re-saw even though I do love it for curve cutting.

   Good luck...

   Sarge..

   Edited 4/3/2009 9:12 am ET by SARGEgrinder47

4. 
   sawdustdad | Apr 03, 2009 05:55pm | #18

   Anybody else own the Hitachi resaw? I've had one for 15 years or so (B600), now sold as the BF75? It has the universal motor, I'd like to change it out to an induction motor. anyone done that? It would be quieter, for sure, but the pulleys would have to change. The 3 inch carbide (stellite) blades work well, but the machine is a one trick pony. (have the Delta 14 inch bandsaw for all other tasks..)

5. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Apr 03, 2009 08:17pm | #19

   Once upon a time I considered it.. but the Hitachi National Service Center is down the road about 8 miles from me. I got to have a close look and passed. I do beilieve I remember someone changing to an induction motor but.. that is strickly memory. I would call the guys at Hitachi Technical and they can probably give you a more qualified answer.

   Sarge..

6. 
   sleepydad | Apr 28, 2009 03:39am | #28

   Ok so I threatened to update when I finally got around to it.

   I order a 1" Trimaster carbide 3 tpi from specturm supply.  excellent service fast shipping no problems. I think it came to $175 or so. ouch!

   wow is all I can say I have been slicing 1/16" pieces without a problem.  This is the most incredible band I've ever used.  it's effortless and very smooth.

7. 
   sleepydad | Apr 03, 2009 09:18pm | #21

   I order a tri-max from these guys

   http://www.spectrumsupply.com/

   I'll post something after I get it and saw a bit....

    

8. 
   RichinVA | Apr 03, 2009 08:32pm | #20

   Sarge,Can you furnish a link for that blade? Have also been using the 1/2" Woodslicer on my 18" saw, works fine, but does seem to dull quicker than I think it should. Does that come in a 1/2"?Many thanks.Rich

9. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Apr 04, 2009 03:18am | #22

   I get them from.. http://www.toolcenter.com .. I think (and I repeat.. I think) the Classic only come in 3/4" up. The 1/2 (from memory) is a 4 tpi more suitable for plain ripping as I simply prefer 3 tpi for re-saw. But.. with that said.. get the phone # off the site and call. The guys there know their product and can tell you in a jiffy if the classic come in 1/2". And don't trust the sizes in the web-site as it is difficult to navigate IMO. Calling is the best bet.

   Frankly.. I feel the bi-metal is close to the carbide in smoothness of cut as I feel any re-saw cut has to be cleaned anyway. And the bi-metal last about 5 times longer in sharpeness than the Woodslicer as I see it. A carbide would last around 12/13 IMO.. so I can get four bi-metals for the price of one carbide and come out ahead one blade before sharpening. Or they are really cheap enough to just dispose of and get another for $48 shipped in my case with a 137" blade.

   Try one Richard and see for yourself. I think you might be pleasantly surprised. But.. keep in mind I do believe the kerf is .035 which is much wider than the WS.

   Good luck...

   Sarge..

   Edited 4/3/2009 8:20 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47

10. 
    RichinVA | Apr 06, 2009 01:54pm | #26

    Sarge, Wider kerf is OK with me, mostly resawing 13/16" in half for boxes, so that little bit of difference isn't going to matter much. I am ordering one of these today in the 3/4". Not too much more than the Woodslicer, so if it lasts that much longer, seems well worth the extra initial outlay. Have to swap out blades anyway to do curvy stuff, so the extra width really doesn't matter, and I feel like more beam is better. Will be getting my dad's 14" saw in a few weeks (mixed feelings on that, for sure!!), so I'll set that one up to do curves. I may talk to the guys at ToolCenter about that blade when the time comes.Thanks for the steer, hope you have a good day. Will keep you posted on the outcome, if you're interested................Rich

11. 
    SARGEgrinder47 | Apr 06, 2009 06:47pm | #27

    I think you will be satisfied as I also agree about beam strength which some say doesn't matter. And BTW.. if you get the Woodslicer in 3/4" which has been available for about a year and a half now.. it cost me around $40 with tax as Highland is 25 minutes away from me. The Lennox welded and shipped cost me $48 to the door. I have to add $3 gas for a trip to Highland and it would cost me much more as I won't leave the store without buying something else. :>)

    The best move I made when I got a 18" inch was to keep the smaller BS. I set it up with whatever blade Highland carries in 1/4" 6 tpi and just leave it on. I cut a ton of templates.. plastics for jigs.. etc. on that saw. Just yesterday I re-sawed on 2 occasions and curve cut on three. That would have been around 4 blade changes. It is nice to just go to a BS to re-saw or cut curves with the right blade on-board. Hit the Go button and "get er done" and move on... next. ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..

    Please let me know how you like the Lennox as I'm guessing you will..

    Sarge..

12. 
    danmart | Jul 13, 2009 03:03am | #29

    Sarge

    I have been using the bi-metal but now I am considering the carbide tip?? I love the bi metal and I can say from "heavy use" this is one tough blade and it delivers where others fade away. Don't know if I should try another? Have you used the Woodmaster carbide tip?

    dan

13. 
    SARGEgrinder47 | Jul 13, 2009 05:02am | #30

    I just answered over in the other thread Dan. Basically I use the 3/4"  bimetal Lennox Classic 3 tpi and am very happy. I have seen the cut of the WM and really couldn't tell any major difference from the BM. As I stated over there.. if it stayed sharp 2 1/4 times as long at the difference in price it might be feasible.

    But.. I won't risk being the guinea pig on this one and wait for feedback after some have had it awhile so.. let me know if it stays sharper long enough to warrant twice the price of the Bi. Seriously I am happy enough I won't try one unless I hear reports of longevity on sharp as I already have an opinion on smoothness of cut which is about the same.

    Good luck... 

     Sarge..

    Woodworkers' Guild of Georgia

5. 
   Tinkerer3 | Apr 02, 2009 07:28am | #8

   Is your saw the MM16?  From this forum I understand the band that comes with a band saw is normally just junk.  I think the MM is different.  Mine came with a supposedly $225.00 carbide blade.  I haven't even used it yet.  Want to be more confident with the saw before I try that expensive thing.  Another recommended band is the Timberwolf.

1. 
   sleepydad | Apr 02, 2009 03:57pm | #9

   yes the bands that come from MM are standard off the 1000' spool of generic band. 

   Not sure what you mean by different?

   come on man slap that nice blade on there and make some dust.  Band saws are pretty safe; I feel safer using a bandsaw than a table saw, drill press, jointer, router .... I would say it's about the safest powertool around. 

   I know 2 emergency room nurses; they say the table saw is the #1 power tool injury they see.

1. 
   Tinkerer3 | Apr 04, 2009 06:47am | #23

   So many of the posters refer to the blade that comes with the band saw as just junk - not worthy of using.  My MM16 came with a supposedly $225.00 band.  I think that is different than the ordinary band.  "Safety"  Yes, I suppose the table saw is more dangerous but when I see sixteen inches of those nasty looking teeth skittering by.  It looks pretty dangerous.

6. 
   Redwoodie | Apr 05, 2009 02:46am | #24

   I use the lenox tri-master for serious resawing.  I used this some time back on 8" cherry, and I was able to run this through as fast as I wanted, and still only needed one pass to get the saw marks out.  I think I had 140 lf, and was done in 5 minutes.

   Suffolk blades have given decent, but less precise results.  For the cost savings, no complaints.

    

7. 
   jpat | Apr 05, 2009 03:42am | #25

   Hey Sleepy,

   I was at a wood working show recently and watched the man from Carter band saw products repeatedly slice off 1/8" or less veneers from a 6 inch tall piece of cherry. The father of the operation swares you can get a better cut from their 1/2" blade (less tension, Less ware and tare on the machine) I watched him do it on a small saw over and over. Next time I need bands I am going to try them.

   Good luck,

   John