Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Jan 01, 2009 09:00am | #1

   Swifty, blades that work really well on bigger machines (16" or especially 18") may not work so well on the lowly 14" like many of us use.  I'll suggest you contact Suffolk Machinery (by phone!) and ask them to send you a couple of their low-tension Timberwolf blades sized for your machine.  Follow their tensioning instructions (called "flutter test" or something like that).  In addition to standard resaw blades, they have a new "variable positive claw" blade that I've heard very good things about.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
2. 
   jdubbs | Jan 01, 2009 02:50pm | #2

   I'll second Foretsgirls pick on Suffolk Machinery. I have a Grizzly 14" bandsaw equipped with a re-saw blade from Suffolk. I just "sliced" 8" QSWO with no problems. Hope this helps. Regards!

3. 
   Rich14 | Jan 01, 2009 04:37pm | #3

   No argument with the above advice to try Timberwolf blades from Suffolk. But you do not need specialty blades to resaw, especially not for 2-1/2 inch maple.

   If there is any "secret," it is that the blades must be sharp (that is, new) and you must be sure nothing has happened to damage even a single tooth or to affect the set of one or a few teeth. It is surprisingly easy to damage a blade while installing it, especially by letting it hit the metal throat plate.

   The fact that your saw has drift indicates it is not adjusted properly. Contrary to popular "wisdom," frequently repeated in just about every band saw book, drift is a NOT a normal characteristic of band saws and that one must accommodate. If the blade is riding centered on the crown of the upper wheel tire so that the front to back plane is parallel to the direction of cut, there should be no drift.

   Do yourself a big favor and download Michael Fortune's straight-forward instructions for setting up your saw. He debunks a few myths including the one about drift and about blade tension. His advice is the best you'll ever read about band saw set up.

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuidePDF.aspx?id=24093

   A 1/2" 3 TPI skip-tooth blade is just right for your needs. Michael recommends Starrett blades from BC Saw in Vancouver. I have used them. They are inexpensive and are excellent blades. In the size for your saw, they cost about $11.

   Good luck,

   Rich

   
   

   ---

   Edited 1/1/2009 8:38 am ET by Rich14

4. 
   Quickstep | Jan 01, 2009 05:10pm | #4

   Last year, my wife gave me a carbide blade from Iturra Design for Christmas. It's like sawing butter.

1. 
   boilerbay | Jan 01, 2009 05:24pm | #5

   It's one thing to have a wife that will OK a big tool for Christmas but it's a very rare one that actually pays enough attention to get you the small stuff-like blades. She's a definite keeper!Boiler

2. 
   forestgirl | Jan 02, 2009 08:08am | #8

   What size/kind of saw, Quick??  How many TPI, how wide the blade?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   swifty6 | Jan 02, 2009 04:37pm | #9

   My bandsaw is a 14 inch delta with 12 inch riser block. I calculated the speed in feet per minuet using Suffolk machine formula. It is running at 3161 feet per minuet. You may have intended your request to forestgirl but I included it. I will call Suffolk today.

1. 
   WillGeorge | Jan 02, 2009 06:47pm | #10

   Swifty.. No hate here at all..

   You posted..

   I calculated the speed in feet per minuet using Suffolk machine formula. It is running at 3161 feet per minuet.

   Is that a jitter bug?

   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minuet

   Sorry, I had to.. I just love words..

   Have a great new year!

   EDIT: I spell like that very often!

   Edited 1/2/2009 10:48 am by WillGeorge

2. 
   forestgirl | Jan 02, 2009 07:45pm | #11

   Hi, Swifty.  I think you'll be pleased with your interaction with Suffolk, and with the Timberwolf blades.  My reply to Quickstep, above, was to squeeze a little more info from him.  His statement that he had a carbide blade and it works well wasn't very useful without know what kind of saw he's running it on, how wide the blade, and how many teeth per inch (TPI) -- too funny.  And then there's the tooth configuration, forgot to ask about that.

   BTW, if you didn't see it, here's the page with the flutter test for tensioning.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

3. 
   dgreen | Jan 03, 2009 05:18am | #14

   Where did you find a 12" riser? 

    

   ................................................

   Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot

1. 
   swifty6 | Jan 03, 2009 06:00am | #15

   I don't remember exactly but I think it was a delta accessory. I will go down and check it out for marks and try to give you better information tomorrow.

2. 
   swifty6 | Jan 03, 2009 06:07am | #16

   I am glad you called my hand on the 12 inch riser claim. It is a 6 inch riser and marked D267
   Brain was not in gear as fingers were typing.

5. 
   WillGeorge | Jan 01, 2009 06:10pm | #6

   Just me so..

   I have something in my brain about feeding stock into a bandsaw. I tend to think, many may think, as I did, in table saw rip speeds. Nothing like a TS!

   A bandsaw is very different on hardwoods. Slow/easy/constant feed speeds . It will take a 'bit' of time, and then some, to make a cut. Something to get use to doing.

   I have tried all the 'fancy blades'.. Get a carbide blade if you can afford it. I do not have one for my shop BUT I have used one on more than a few occasions on my friends bandsaw.. A junker like mine! Beautiful cuts at a greater speed but still SLOWER than you would expect! By the way, I am NOT knocking any blade. Fancy or other. I use common Lennox blades. Only because they work for ME. Maybe not you.

   Some stock will allow you, 'or need', a faster feed rate. I cannot explain it. It is just something you 'feel' as you feed your 'I do not want to waste anything I do not have to' board.

   I for one think there should be a LAW that No Bansaw will be sold without a quality power feeder. I do not have a power feeder. Have used and like day and night cuts.

   By the way.. Just sounding off..

   Have a Really great New Year...

    

    

    

1. 
   swifty6 | Jan 01, 2009 07:52pm | #7

   Thanks for your help. As usual you have offered invaluable assistance. I got a lot of very useful information from Suffolk Machinery corp as well as the article ,Five Tips for Better Bandsawing.

6. 
   saragosa | Jan 03, 2009 03:47am | #12

   FWIW, I switched from Timberwolf to the Woodslicer due to what I thought was excessively rapid dulling. You should be aware that hard and soft woods behave differently with different tooth configurations. I cut very hard woods almost exclusively, Which a 3 tpi Woodslicer handles beautifully, but this blade chokes on softwoods and will overheat. However, no steel blade is going to last very long for resawing thick lumber. I never get more than a month out of any blade as I resaw almost every day.

   So, if you are getting impacted dust buildup in the kerf, you've got the wrong blade type and its overheating and going dull on you.

1. 
   EdHarrow | Jan 03, 2009 05:10am | #13

   I've used Woodslicers on my 14" Delta with riser.  I recently replaced the one I've used (and abused) for several years to resaw a bunch of  8" poplar.  It cut perfecto mundo, smooth, straight - until I used it to cut the ends off a couple of firewood logs that were just too long for the firebox.  That's all it took...  It wouldn't cut hot butter after that.

   I don't recollect the feet/min speed, but I took a hint from Louis Iturra and sped it up by changing pulley sizes.

   Good luck, whatever your choice.