Replies

1. 
   Tony Z | Jul 02, 2008 01:08pm | #1

   I have a Stanley 60-1/2, as well as a LN, a LN 102 and a number of other block planes (I like block planes).  I put a Hock A2 blade in the Stanley 4 or 5 years ago and it was my favorite out of all the block planes I had, until the LN 102 arrived.  I still like the way the Stanley fits my hand better than either the LN or LV low angle block, and with the Hock blade, it is the equivalent of either plane.

   T.Z.

1. 
   SawdustSteve | Jul 02, 2008 10:21pm | #2

   I hope other 'Knott-Heads' will read your reply. Sometimes the name on the tool is important, but how it fits into your hand is more important, especially when you plan to put lots of miles on it. The same advice goes for cameras, and ccomputer keyboards, just to name a few, where the fit is as important as its function.
   SawdustSteve Long Island, NY (E of NYC)

2. 
   iannlb | Jul 05, 2008 05:15pm | #6

   Thanks Tony Z,

   I am interested in the LN 102 but have been leaning towards the Low angle adjustable mouth block plane just because of the adjustable mouth.  In my experience with my stanley the adjustable mouth has to always be wide open and I wonder if thats just Stanley machining or if a new LN will have the same deal.  In that case whats the use of an adjustable mouth and I would just get the LN 102.  Have you ever run into an situation that made you with your 102 had an adjustable mouth.

1. 
   Tony Z | Jul 05, 2008 06:00pm | #9

   I think within the uses of a block plane, and particularly the LN 102 (probably the same for the 103), the lack of an adjustable mouth is not that big of a deal.  I'm saying this keeping in mind that the mouth on my 102 is pretty fine to begin with and much tighter than any fixed mouth Stanley I've seen.

   I like the 102 much better than the LN 60-1/2 because it's so much lighter and fits my hand better (feels pretty close to the Stanley 60-1/2).

   Now bear in mind a block plane is not a smoother, etc.  Block planes are meant for tweaking joints or taking a schosh off an edge, etc.  To accomplish these tasks you must be very familiar with your plane, almost to the point that it becomes an extension of your hand.  With any plane, the way you accomplish this is to use it and not always be looking for the next big thing.  Until the corners of the mouth cracked out, my favorite block plane was a Stanley 60-1/2.  It was an older one that wouldn't bring $1.00 at a garage sale because of the user-ground finger indents, but boy did it do it's job!

   There are many on this forum with much more experience than I and many with less.  Take all of our advice with a grain of salt and learn what works for you and go with it.

   T.Z.

2. 
   troys | Jul 02, 2008 10:27pm | #3

   I had a Stanley #60.5 and replaced the blade with a hock iron and it did work better, then I was given a LN and I do like it better. If money is not a big issue I would buy the LN. But the Stanley worked fine.

   Troy

1. 
   7Joel | Jul 02, 2008 10:46pm | #4

   If you do replace the blade on the Stanley block plane both LN and LV replacements are a full 1/8th thick -- the Hock's are thinner. I got the LV because I had some other stuff ordered but the LN is also excellent. It improved the plane a bit.

1. 
   troys | Jul 03, 2008 06:09am | #5

   When I replaced the blade on my Stanley it was about 12 years ago and hock was the only choice. I like the blade on my LN plane.Troy

2. 
   iannlb | Jul 05, 2008 05:17pm | #7

   Hello troys,

   what specifically do you like better?  Do you feel like the tool elevated your work or did your practice with a lesser tool make you better.

1. 
   troys | Jul 07, 2008 03:04am | #14

   I wish the better tool made me better:) and I know a lot of people with a lot more talent than me doing great work with less pricey tools. That being said I do like the way the LN feels in my hand and I do think I get a nicer shaving with it and it does seem to work better on end grain in particular. I also think the LN blade holds a better edge than the Stanley although that is such a unscientific observation I don't want to put that much credit to it. As for price if you go with a new Stanley 60.5 and a hock blade the price starts to get close. Of course some people might say buy a used Stanley for a few bucks at a garage sale and ad the hock blade. I did try a used Stanley 60.5 that I got at a garage sale but I could not get the blade adjuster to work right and ended up selling it on e-bay. Have fun Troy

3. 
   JeffHeath | Jul 05, 2008 05:32pm | #8

   I have a both, so here's some unbiased advise.  My Stanley is well tuned, and works fine, but on it's best day, it doesn't come close to working as well as the Lie Nielsen.  I wouldn't waste your time or money on a new blade for the Stanley.  It simply won't matter.  You would be doubling your investment on the Stanley.  Cut bait, and put the money towards the LN, and you won't be sorry.

   I still use my Stanley all the time for trimming and fitting on construction grade lumber, and on construction (exterior) job sites where I don't care about just throwing it in my tool bag.  I would never treat my LN tools that way.  With the Stanley, I just don't care if it gets dinged around a bit.

   Jeff

1. 
   iannlb | Jul 05, 2008 08:35pm | #13

   Just ordered the A2 blade from LN for $30.  I figured to give it a shot for a few years and just get good with the tool.  I would really like a LN adjustable mouth block plane, but I just cant seem to pull the trigger on it yet.  Thanks for all your comments and advice.  I wish you all the best.  iannlb

4. 
   dkellernc | Jul 05, 2008 06:20pm | #10

   I'd suggest that you find a replacement blade for your Stanley from a flea market dealer for about $5 - and buy the L-N or L-V versions.  There's nothing wrong with old stanleys, but the L-N and L-V are better tools, and to me, it's not worth spending the original cost of the tool for a better blade.

   I'd suggest that Hock (and also the powder mettalurgy blades from http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com) are best saved for the larger, more expensive Stanleys where the equivalent L-N or L-V is quite expensive indeed - like the #6 fore plane.  A Stanley #6 can be had for about $70 in very good shape, and a Hock replacement blade is $40.  A new L-N #6 is $400, so there's substantial savings there.

1. 
   EdHarrison | Jul 05, 2008 06:59pm | #11

   Here's a photo of exactly what you're talking about - a No. 6 with a Hock Blade and Chipbreaker. This is a WW II era one - the tote and knob are replaced with dogwood ones that I made and the brass adjuster is a replacement for the hard butyl rubber one that came with this era plane. This may have ran $25 a few years ago, with the blade and chipbreaker another $50-$60. Works great, as do my other 20 or so bench planes.Chisel in foreground is a Sandvik, bought for about $5 in the early eighties - new handle on it. I had this photo on my desktop (sent to a ladyfriend last week) - and since it was exactly what you were talking about - here 'tis.For the original poster - I don't have a 60 1/2, but I have a Stanley Block plane with the knuckle joint lever cap - I think it is a no. 18. I bought a Hock blade for it, used it for a while, then went back to the original blade. The original one is good steel - it is very old, has the "V" logo - and it sharpens very predictably to extremely sharp. It is slightly thinner than the Hock one and works a little better with the depth adjuster, which is why I went back to it. I'll use the Hock blade for something else, maybe a handmade high angle small smoother.You may have the same experience - you may go back to the original blade. You may find that the original is easier to quickly hone than the Hock and that may be the feature that you want. With the No. 18, you just pop the cap off, hone back to razor sharp, pop the cap back on and away you go - I like that feature - literally less than 15-20 seconds.That's it - two posts about bench planes today, so I'm done talking about bench planes for another 1.5 years!

   
1. 
   dkellernc | Jul 05, 2008 08:16pm | #12

   Nice handles!  I wish I could get more dogwood - I consider it "American Boxwood", and it makes superior tool handles, molding plane boxing and wear fences on panel and marking gauges.

   Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to be sold commercially, so I'm always fighting off the turners when someone in the neighborhood cuts one down.