Replies

1. 
   oldusty | Apr 20, 2009 04:39pm | #1

     BG ,

               If you can cut thin strips of wood to fill the gaps to fit tight or perhaps caulking or silicone .

      regards        dusty

1. 
   BG | Apr 21, 2009 12:31am | #4

   Oldusty,Thanks, the more I think about thin strips of wood the more I'm inclined to think caulk..if I can get a good color match.I was wondering though if I could build a strip of wood look-alike with wood putty(create a mini-frame with wax-paper)...that I could paint with an artist brush?

2. 
   DonfromUtah | Apr 20, 2009 11:53pm | #2

   I'd go with the silicone that oldusty mentioned - it will keep spilled liquids from getting between the marble and the wood.

1. 
   BG | Apr 21, 2009 02:54am | #5

   Don,I'm getting a bit of push back from SWMBO on the caulk idea. I think she's concerned it would look messy..especially if it remains pliable. I need to do more research on what is out there.

1. 
   mr_kramer | Apr 21, 2009 05:51pm | #7

   If you will invest in the good blue masking tape and apply evenly to both sides of your joint (preferably about an eighth of an inch both sides) wipe it down with your finger or tool of your choice, immediatly pull the tape and walk away, let it dry, and it will deliver a perfect clean grout line.

1. 
   BG | Apr 21, 2009 08:17pm | #8

   mr_kramer,That is a most interesting technique to know, thanks. Of course, now I'm thinking maybe grout would be a solution making the granite top slightly bigger to fill the gap. We used to use 'composition books or Copy books' back in grammar school...the mottled cover of those books looks like my granite slab and matching might not be so hard.

1. 
   bigfootnampa | Apr 22, 2009 05:36pm | #9

   You'll be sorry if you use grout... the wood moves and grout does NOT, resulting in CRACKS! Caulk is the answer here... I'd use a paintable though (NOT silicone). T-Rex 0r King caulk would be my choice (I think these are the same but labeled differently). They are urethane-acrylic caulks. Slower setting, very adhesive (I like them better than liquid nails for gluing moldings, counter tops, handles in tool sockets, etc.), paintable, strong, flexible but firm... they are an all-around high performer. These caulks are also lots easier than most to tool neatly... I use saliva for final surface smoothing. Alcohol on a rag will clean up stray smears (while fresh). Allow a couple of days before painting and a week or more for full cure (this is mostly academic though as once the surface is not sticky [about two days] there are few limitations in use). Note that, despite the slow cure, as a glue it is spread thin and I use it for adhering vinyl corners for drywall and get tack within minutes. I leave it at least overnight before mudding though.

   Edited 4/22/2009 10:38 am ET by bigfootnampa

2. 
   mr_kramer | Apr 27, 2009 08:55pm | #10

   You would indeed be happier with 100% silicone. Just as the grout will crack, so will the paintable caulk over time. The silcone will also stay bright and will not fade and will always remain rubbery and pliable. One last important item, silicone will never mildew!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

2. 
   peakbagger | Apr 28, 2009 03:28am | #11

   This is the exact method I use. I will caution that if the caulk is not absolutely thin at the edge, there will be a small ridge where the tape is lifted.

3. 
   YesMaam27577 | Apr 21, 2009 12:07am | #3

   Since this is painted wood, I agree with the others -- caulk the gaps.

   If you use silicone, be sure to use a silicone that is already the correct color -- silicone is slippery enough that paint won't usually adhere.

   And don't use a cheap "painter's" caulk. It will gather dust, which will hold moisture, which adds up to mold or mildew. So, if you don't use pure silicone, be sure to use something with a microbicide in it.

   Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.
1. 
   BG | Apr 21, 2009 02:59am | #6

   yesMaam,Good advise, thank you. I'm going to play with a couple of ideas and, when I feel comfortable, try and sell it to my wife.