A family member died recently and she left a house with inch thick paneling – the house is at least 50 years old – of cypress, magnolia, locust, and other native Louisiana woods. Several family members are woodworkers and we’re considering removing as much of the paneling as possible and replacing it with sheet rock for a new owner who wouldn’t appreciate the wood as much as the family and then turning it all into furniture and gifts for family members to help remember the owner. What can anyone tell me about the difficulties removing the wood (I’m told it’s tongue-in-groove), what we’re likely to encounter under the wood, techniques for removing it with a minimum of damage, and any special experience or credentials a contractor we hire to do teh removal should have? Thanks.
-Steve
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Replies
If it's tongue and groove, simply "set" the nails all the way through to remove the piece of paneling. This would assume a "standard" T&G applied with finish nails, which is/was a pretty common technique. Ditto for any trim, altho' that would probably have some face nails as well.
You can generally start at a door or window, expose the tongue side of the board, set the nails, remove the piece, move on to the next piece. The groove side of the panel has (generally) no fasteners, so as soon as the tongue side is freed, so is the panel. Sometimes some pressure under the tongue (a la wrecking bar) will assist, but that also may rip the tongue off, depending upon the species.
Under the wood? I would guess that all you would see would be the studs, if this is on conventional framing. Most "real" paneling of the day didn't use any substrate, just block in between the studs every so often and nail it up. Removal "may" be just as simple.
Contractor recommendations? As you want to save this as "heirloom quality" lumber, I'd say someone with experience. Check out references. An explanation of what you want and why may yield some enlightening answers.
Good luck, and would love to see some before and after pics.
Rich
Thanks, Rich. You make it sound easy. I'm on my way there today and I'll do a little testing to see how it's constructed. There's a good contractor who's done a lot of other work on the house and I'll ask if he's done any similar jobs. The camera's ready to shoot. I appreciate the advice. Can't imagine someone moving in and painting over "all that heavy dark wood to get some goo light in here" and not knowing what they've got nor what they've done!
-Steve
You got me drooling. How many Sg FT?
I have salvaged a lot of wood. There is usually a starting point, floor/ceiling or as mentioned a door/window, were you can get the first piece out and the rest should come easy.
Drive nails thru or if they come out pull them thru don't pul them back thru the face less damage. A thin wrecking bar, nail cutters and a dust mask and you should be good.
The best part is what is buried in the wall, like old newspapers with serlion steak at ,35 cents a pound or a new car for $2.400.00.
Just be glad they did not have PL Premium back then.
Good luck
A VERY rough guess is 1000 - 1500 sq ft all together attached, it appears, more 3/4" hardwood. Any ideas why that might be done that way? Any ideas on where to sell any excess or at what cost? Thanks for the several suggestions on how to salvage it.
-Steve
Why was it done that way? I often wonder my self. Maybe it was a left over and got a good deal on it :). Or payment for work?
As for resale. Craig's list? Do you have enough space to store it?My salvage pile is low so If I were closer I would come a grab some.
As for price depends on who. is there someone who does antique restoration's near who. they would value it more than others.Pics?
Another possibility for the "why?" is reclaimed wood from a hotel remodel. Back in the late 1800s, my great grandfather reclaimed enough wood from a remodel of one of the fancy hotels to double the size of their home in Pasadena.
Steve, I salvage a lot of wood as well,and just wanted to add a little trick we have used for years to the already good advise you have been given.the basic key is try to figure out where the installer stopped or finished ,working back from that point causes the least amount of damage .Once the first couple of boards are removed I make wooden wedge's starting at about 6" long and up to 16" or so ,pry the first board gently enough to start the wedge's . continue hammering in the wedges ,this method lifts a few boards at a time as well as leaving many of the nails in the wall which are simply hammered in (or pulled if you wish)then use nail pulling pliers from the back of the peace to remove the remaining nails as mention by an other poster.
Cheers Dan
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