Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | May 29, 2009 06:28pm | #1

   Duffer, the search engine can be a bit difficult sometimes, but I got good results by using Advanced Search and putting remove white in the search box, selecting the Finishing Folder and searching to the beginning of time (or whatever it's called).

   This topic comes up a few times a year, I'm sure you'll find solutions in those search result.  Don't bother with the search box at the bottom of the main forum page, it rarely gives results as far as I can tell.  Always use Advanced Search.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

   
   

   ---

   Edited 5/29/2009 11:29 am by forestgirl

1. 
   duffer101 | May 29, 2009 07:31pm | #2

   Thanks for your reply. I see Search but not Advanced Search in the FineWoodworking site. Do you mean in Google itself?

1. 
   forestgirl | May 30, 2009 04:43am | #6

   The Advanced Search here at Knots.  Look at the top of the list of discussions.  Here is a pic of the screen:

   View Imageforestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

   
1. 
   Gretchen | May 30, 2009 01:41pm | #7

   And be sure you are not in "basic view" I think. Advance view clear at the bottom of the screen.Gretchen

2. 
   saschafer | May 29, 2009 07:48pm | #3

   The standard remedy for this is to dampen a cloth with naphtha, and then rub the spot vigorously with the dampened cloth. Note that if the surface is waxed, the naphtha will remove the wax, so in that case you'll want to apply it over the entire surface and then rewax. Test in an inconspicuous area first, as the solvent might damage old, deteriorated finishes.

   One caution: The word "naphtha" means different things to different people. I'm speaking specifically of what in the US is also called "petroleum naphtha" or "VM&P naphtha," which you can get in quart cans from the paint section of your local hardware store. (It's also a primary constituent of cigarette lighter fluid.)

   -Steve

    

1. 
   SteveSchoene | May 29, 2009 09:43pm | #5

   The naphtha may work, and carries no risk, other than removing wax.  So might applying other oily substances, including petroleum jelly, or mayonaisse.  

   But, I'd call the "standard" an denatured alcohol dampened cloth, wiped lightly over the area.  The idea is NOT to wet the surface, just leaving a slight dampness that evaporates in just moments.  Too much alcohol can damage older lacquer finishes so gentle is the watchword.  You may need to make several passes.  Just leave enough between them that any wetness would disappear before you tried it again. 

   There are also commercial products typically called something like blush remover that work. 

    

3. 
   Ray | May 29, 2009 08:41pm | #4

   try a bit of mayonnaise on a cloth, if the mark isn't too "old" it works pretty well

4. 
   philip | May 31, 2009 11:10am | #8

   Here is a method I have used many times:cover the area with a cloth or brown paper and warm up with an iron. You can actually see the cloudiness disappearing.

   Philip Marcou
1. 
   boilerbay | Jun 02, 2009 03:19am | #9

   Agreed. I've used the "denatured" and the paper/iron and they both work well but I'm just a bit more partial to the paper/iron but with the caveat of having the surface wax neutral first.PS."I hoped you noted the pleasant smell of Imbuia, if he still uses this finest of timbers."I did and he does -- now are you ready for visitors down there?
   (also saw a handle of what Mike called "Dereks" wood. The stuff Derek had him use for his saw.BB

1. 
   philip | Jun 02, 2009 07:54am | #13

   Boil,
   "now are you ready for visitors down there?"
   Anytime, especially if they come bearing alms, lots of them (;)
   Are you thinking of visiting NZ? If so I hope you can pitch here, but be sure to phone me before hand so that I can sweep the floor a bit....Philip Marcou

5. 
   terrylee86 | Jun 02, 2009 03:43am | #10

   If none of the ideas submitted work in your case, I would try Liberon white ring remover from Woodcraft or Rockler.  I have bought about 4 bottles of that stuff because somebody is always borrowing it and I never get it back.  It has work in every case I have tried it on and all my borrowers have had similar success.

1. 
   Gretchen | Jun 02, 2009 03:56am | #11

   OR cheaper use Howard's Restor-a-finish.Gretchen

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jun 02, 2009 04:26am | #12

   Howard's is mostly just mineral oil, with a little tint, and a bit of solvent.  (The MSDS lists 2.5% xylene, and 2.5% MEK.  The MEK will evaporate very quickly, the xylene at a more moderate pace.)  The mineral oil won't cure, and would have to be removed to apply any other finish over it. 

1. 
   Gretchen | Jun 02, 2009 03:02pm | #14

   No matter what is in it, it does remove white marks.  The other methods do also. I wipe it off. I didn't see where the OP was going to apply a finish over it. I thought the finish was already there and had a white ring. No?Gretchen

6. 
   chs | Jun 04, 2009 02:46am | #15

   you can try spraying small amounts of blush eliminator (or no-blush, blush erasoer) on it. that will soften the finish and the ring will should go away. It may take a couple of applications for it to totally get ride of it. let me know what happens.