Replies

1. 
   joinerswork | Apr 04, 2009 01:34am | #1

   lucky,

   Franklin's makes a liquid hide glue you can buy off the shelf at hardware stores.  That would be your best bet, as it will be compatible with the old hide glue that's already under the veneer.  Use the liquid hide glue just as you would yellow glue--use something like a palette knife or a hacksaw blade (you can grind its end thinner) to work it back between the loose layers, lay a piece of plastic wrap or wax paper between the veneer and a flat block placed over the peeling veneer, clamp tightly overnite.  Make real sure your block is a bit larger than the loose veneer area, and clamp well, so you don't end up with a bubble of veneer filled with glue, at the edge of the block.

   If you are worried about glue squeezing out under the plastic wrap (if the veneer is cracked or split, for instance), you can remove the clamps, block, and wrap after an hour or so (when the glue has set), wipe up any squeeze-out off the finish with a damp rag, dry well with paper towels, and then re-clamp til the glue dries. Any dried glue can be removed with a rag dipped in hot water, and wrung out.  Rub til it is softened and comes off.  Often,the dried hide glue will lift easily from a finish in relatively good shape- but sometimes picking it off a poor or degraded finish will lift the finish too:-(

   Ray

1. 
   luckyhorseshoe34 | Apr 04, 2009 05:36pm | #3

   Thank you so much.  I will give it a try.  Ashley

1. 
   joinerswork | Apr 05, 2009 02:58am | #4

   You're welcome Ashley. 

   Good luck on your project,

   Ray

2. 
   danmart | Apr 04, 2009 03:20am | #2

   The piece has a finish on it so I can't just reactivate the hide glue with heat.  Any help would be great.

   You might try to heat the existing glue before you introduce new hide glue. Its worth a try.

   I have use an old cotton shirt and an iron to heat the surface and glue below without damaging the finish(too much). You might try it.

   Post a couple photos??