Hi Peter, I have a older model Cristcraft outboard motor boat that I have to restore the original Teak wood. The wood is screwed on with stainless steel screws and can be removed from the boat. Can you give me some tips on stripping, sanding and refinishing the wood.
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If you can get the wood off of course that is the best. Sand it down to a 120 or a little finer grit. Go to a marine dealer,and get some stuff called cetol applied as directed (not difficult) gives a beautiful color to teak. This can be used as the entire finish but if you want it to last for years and I mean years get some Bristol also a marine finish and top coat the cetol this stuff is amazing a little fussy to apply simalar to varnish with the bubble problem. But well wort it. I have had it on are boat this is the 5th season and it still looks like new. good luck
Hi old1yankee
Thanks for the advise, I will keep your method in mind.
Sounds like a nice boat. A friend has a 69 ChrisCraft Lancer that is great fun. Heavy boat too.
The wood should be removed for ease of work. If it's grey from weathering a good sanding will take care of that. If the finish is thin sanding again is the answer. I try not to use a stripper unless absolutely required.
Something like 120 should do the trick. Clean it well, and blow all the dust out of the pores.
If you want to do a standard varnish finish be sure and use good quality products.
A basic schedule could be;
A first or primer coat of Interlux sealer. It is an oil based product and very amber in color. It will tone the teak very nicely. Lay an even coat on and let dry. It's ready for sanding in 12 hours. I've used this product for the beginning of many exterior projects and like it's properties.
Sand with 320 or 220 as required. I often start with 320 and if it's not cutting enough I'll go to 220.
This will give you a good base for varnishing. The best varnishes would be Petit, Interlux, Epiphane. They are pricey and well worth it.
Common sense rules when varnishing. A thin coat will dry faster than a thick coat. I use foam brushes for all the flat varnishing I do. Just don't push them to the bottom of your container or you'll put air bubbles in it. Sand in between coats with 2- 320 as needed. After the second coat and after sanding, I'll use an Abralon pad in 360 grit. It helps level everything out.
Plan on doing 4-6 coats when starting with raw wood.
Common sense; be sure to clean all the dust by vacuuming or blowing it off prior to starting.
The time spent will be rewarded when you hear people go "WOW"
Another poster here suggested another product. I haven't used it but there is always another way to do something right?
Good luck.
Peter
Hi Peter, thanks for the tips on refinishing the Teak wood, I will following your advise on the finishing process. I will have to wait for fall and winter for this project, because here in Minnesota we have to take advantage of the good weather, so the boat will be in use until then.
Thanks.
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