Replies

1. 
   beachfarm | Nov 06, 2005 01:54am | #1

   Random thoughts...

   Removing blemishes from furniture made of softwood (Pine) is, at best, a lost cause.

   DON'T DO IT! Pine tables were built as work tables, meant to be used and abused - and in the market of antique pine, buyers/collectors want to see signs of use and abuse. All the value in that table is tied up in it's "original surface". Removing the surface = removing the value.

   One of my projects for '05 was conserving the raised panel walls and wainscot of an 18th century library. It's original finish was simply wax. Time and trial gave the wood an extraodinary surface of oxidation, wear, grunge and grime. Two coats of Briwax later and we had a replenished version of the same old grungy woodwork. My clients were thrilled.

   I have dinner each night at an early harvest table with a two-board top. Covered in stains, rings, dings, runs, blotches and other "issues". It's beautiful, and it took more than 200 years to get that way.

   Who cares what some jamoke with a router fetish thinks of your table, anyways.

   Wax the table. Learn to love the wear patterns. Live with it. Use it. Abuse it.

   Regards.

   
   

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   Edited 11/5/2005 6:56 pm ET by beachfarm

1. 
   KRC | Nov 06, 2005 02:18am | #2

   I'm with you all the way on what to expect from an old pine table. That's why we bought it in the first place. Not looking to make it look new -- just pleasing.Only question: anything wrong in my Briwax technique? How many coats? Why did I need finger level pressure to buff out the finish?Thanks

1. 
   forestgirl | Nov 06, 2005 03:20am | #3

   It's easy to get too much wax and leave it on too long resulting in excruciating pain, LOL.  Apply wax to a relatively small area, using vigorous (but not manic) circular application with 0000 steel wool.  Your goal is the spread it evenly and heat it up as you go.  Return in 3-5 minutes and wipe off excess with a cloth.  Just go straight up and down.  Let the remainder dry for another 5-10 minutes (depends on the amount of solvent -- traditional BriWax has quite a bit of toluene, dries fast; the newest BriWax has less solvent (and I believe no toluene?).  When it's just hazy, buff.  If you're killing yourself, there's either too much, you waiting too long to buff, or both.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   beachfarm | Nov 06, 2005 03:36am | #4

   Wax, even if applied with an abrasive pad or steel wool, can only clean surface grime - smoke, oils, dried on clam dip. If you have stains IN the wood, you'll need to do one of three things:1. Remove them mechanically (bad)
   2. Disguise them (questionable)
   3. Live with them (good)Getting back to the wax: Really, there is no technique. As Mr. Miyagi taught us: Wax on, wax off. How many coats? That depends on the look you're after. Applying wax with an abrasive pad or steel wood will allow you to work more wax deeper into the wood. You'll build a deeper finish and, very likely, a higher shine that way. If you want a softer look, use only steel wool (or a cloth) and apply less wax.The results: It's hard to know without seeing the table. I picture you working with a well worn scrub top made from old growth pine - but it may just be nasty brown knotty. (If it is brown knotty, you're thoughts of burning the thing are in order.)What I do know: If you've started working wax into the table, there's no turning back. Some folks say you can remove wax. I say, "Good luck with that..."

1. 
   KRC | Nov 06, 2005 03:48am | #5

   Thanks very much for the helpful and prompt responses.Sounds like I was on the right track -- with the exception of using too much Briwax (the old poisonous stuff BTW) that necessitated too much elbow grease.Regarding the table, it's 3/4 worthy of keeping out of the fireplace. Three of the four boards are nice, tightly ringed old growth. The fourth, a fair replacement -- but clearly different.Thanks again.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Nov 06, 2005 05:33am | #6

   The reason that the table has accumulated so much "character" is that wax is of virtually no protection to the wood.  In buffed out thickness, it does little to impede moisture transfer, so the seasonal shrinking and swelling continues unabated, where with a more protective finish  moisture transfer is slowed enough that the peaks are lower and the troughs higher.  Consequently, stress on joints and fastenings is greater.   

   As said before in this thread, not much to do about that without changing the character greatly, and unless done very sensitively would also reduce its value in today's antiques market.  Even high style pieces are, for reasons totally beyond my understanding, perceived to be of greater value with grungy replacement finishes than with well cared for replacement finishes. 

   But with work tables, the esthetic makes sense.  John Kirk was an early proponent in the 70's I believe of leaving it grungy, and he was speaking of painted furniture and the like in a time when the trend was to strip off all the paint on old windsor chairs and the like.  No "refinishing" can capture the spirit of the maker, so it is better to appreciate the the history of the piece, grunge and rings and all.   

   However, there is a catch-22 aspect.  If a piece continues to be without a protective finish it continues to deteriorate, which also eventually reduces value.