Greetings
I just inherited an air compressor and anxious to research spraying stains and finishes before purchasing spray equipment and other air tools. Is there a good reference book on the subject? I haven’t found something that looks good for a hobbyist reference.
Replies
I don't know of any references but the most important thing to know before you buy any spray equipment or air tools is the CFM capacity of the air compressor. The CFM capacity will determine what kind of tools/sprayers you will be able to use. You should be able to find it on the nameplate of the compressor.
Edited 10/26/2009 6:32 pm by polarsea1
Spray Finishing Taunton Press by Andy Charron makes a good starting place.
Thanks Steve - that was what I was looking for. I wanted to learn what I could before shopping for a sprayer.
Thanks polarsea1 - I hadn't thought about that at all.
Thanks ForestGirl - Those are good articles.
Vague memories of this topic..the gist being that the manufacturers put out some pretty good informatio....This article from Fuji may be of help. Here's one from SprayTech Systems that discusses various systems, and provides greatest detail on HVLP.
As someone mentioned knowing the PSI and CFM of your compressor is the first thing. Reading catalogs will give the comparative ratings for air tools.
http://www.spraygunworld.com/
There have been articles in the hobby magazines on air tools.
Thanks Rick I was looking for a comprehensive reference book (like a handbook) rather than reviews and focused articles. Maybe its not that complicated a subject.
What is the maximum psi that an average woodworker would require? Is there any reason to get a two stage compressor?
Most pneumatic tools are designed for a maximum pressure of 90 psi put will often perform just as well, and probably show less wear and tear, if run at lower pressures. Some nailers are rated for 120 psi maximum pressure.Two stage compressors are more efficient and don't wear out as fast as single stage machines, and are usually built heavier overall for commercial use. They cost more of course so you'll have to decide if they are worth it for the amount of use the machine will get. John White
Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998 to 2007
120 psi would cover your needs. No need for a two stage unless you plan on running more than one continuous duty tool like more than one air sander at a time. Then gauge your cfm consumprion against the out put of the compressor. A 5 Hp compressor will take care of your needs, however I would recommend electric sanders for your sanding needs as it seems foolish to fire up a 5 hp motor to run a sander. For wet sanding in auto work it makes more sense to do so. Spraying takes a lot of air as well. An HVLP turbine would be a better choice so if just using nail guns you can use a small compressor as the cfm use is low. Saves a lot of space and is portable and much cheaper.
Thank you for the reply. I don't really have a justifiable need right now but have wondered for some time whether a one or two stage would be more practical. I keep hearing that a two stage would last longer and am wondering if they just tend to build them better because since they are cheaper they should be built cheaper too. So many things are designed and built that way. Don't see any other reason.
Right now, I have a couple little oiless compressors that could probably be hooked up in parallel to operate the pneumatic ROS but with your thoughts of using so much air, I just use the electric ROS instead. The sander I have just laughs at the oiless compressor. The problem I have with the electric ROS is keeping the sanding disk on. I put on a new disk and it is just moments before it comes off. Haven't conquered that one yet.
If your pads are Velcro mounted, the hook fabric on the sander's pad needs to be replaced. The hooks can be damaged by the heat from sanding, especially when excessive heat is generated by using dull sandpaper.John White
Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998 to 2007
No, the pads aren't velcro mounted. It is just the factory "rubber" pad but the stickum on the new sanding discs just gives out long before the abrasive paper wears out. Should one re-glue them? Thanks for your concern.
You might try cleaning the machines pad. Use some type of solvent like paint thinner or naphtha first. Use the solvent on a rag so the pad doesn't get saturated and then clean the pad with a water based cleaner like Simple Green. It could also be that the paper you use doesn't have the best adhesive, you might try switching brands. If you want to try regluing, 3M makes a spray on adhesive that I think will allow you to still peel off the old paper when it is worn.John White
Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998 to 2007
I'll try cleaning it but your suggestion of a poor glue on the replacement pad sounds more likely since the very first one after tearing off the original failed and the next two or three didn't stick long either. The sander pad looks clean.
Go to the top of this page and just to the right of the center you will see a line that reads "Shop books, plans, & more", click on it. Then click on "finishing" on the left side of the page that takes you to. There you will find at least a couple of books on spray finishing that you can order from Taunton.
Usually you decide first which type of spray gun you want to use and then you choose a compressor that will supply the air flow the gun needs, but you can go the other way also.
Most other air tools just need reasonably clean air and occasionally some maintenance that will be explained in the tool's manual. Some tools, like air powered sanders, need a lot of air if they are run steadily and hence need a larger compressor, but the smaller nail and brad guns used in a shop only need a modest sized air supply.
Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998 to 2007
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