Reactivating Yellow Glue with an Iron
I have been experimenting with several veneering methods in an effort to avoid an expensive vacuum press, and I recently came across two FWW articles that suggested using a household iron to reactivate partially cured yellow glue. This sounds almost too good to be true: Let yellow glue dry for 30 minutes on the veneer and substrate. Then press the two together with a household iron on Medium-High heat and presto, instant bond. Does this practice compromise the longevity of the glue joint in anyway?
You should get Mike Burtons book on veneering. http://www.metareview.com/product-veneering-a-foundation-course/0806928557
Hammer veneering is a very old technique and can be used with yellow glue or hide glue.
Hammer veneering, can not be done with yellow glue. It will only work with hot hide glue.
I think the heat activated glue should be confined to small projects with very tame veneers. I personally wouldn't use it, because hammer veneering is more versatile.
Just telling what I read in Mike Burton's book. Are you 100% sure you can't? Have you tried it?
Your correct, Burton does say it, but I can't see it being viable technique, he even limits the size to 1/4 sq. ft ( that's 6" x 6", very small indeed). The veneer would curl from the moisture, and the wetting of the face would only serve to slow the bond. With the 1/4 square foot limit, clamps and a caul would work better and would not require the practice he says is necessary. I'm surprised that Burton would even bother with such a technique, when he is an obvious fan of "real" hammer veneering.
Is hammer veneering a viable way to cover a curved surface? Reason I ask, the one time I used the iron-on veneer technique with yellow glue, was in a situation where I needed to cover a pair of smallish 4"w X 12"l coves with crotch mahogany. The yellow glue ironed on worked ok, I had a couple small bubbles that lifted and had to be pressed down with new glue (thinned and injected).
I'd imagine that cauls and clamps would be necessary for veneering an ogee foot with vertical grain veneer using hide glue, am asking about situations where the grain of the veneer would allow it to easily flex and follow the curve of the substrate--door for a sideboard, for instance, or a cove molding with the grain of the veneer parallel to that of the molding.
Yes, hammer veneering works very well for curved work. I've used it both where the curves were with the grain ( serpentine bureau) and across the grain ( sideboard door). I have attached two photos of pieces that were hammer veneered.
The bureau was a very simple piece to hammer veneer.
The sideboard was fairly easy, but the sharply concaved panels flanking the central cupboard doors took some care. The radius was such, that I needed a curved hammer, because you can't hammer across the grain. I made another sideboard with more pronounced curves and ovals of crotch mahogany, that is similar to catalog number 360 in the Montgomery book on Winterthur Federal furniture ( photos lost in a computer crash).
Thanks for your reply. The coved pieces I referred to in my first post (that I veneered with yellow glue) were the same flanking pieces beside the doors of a sideboard. It is #85 in Flanigan's book of furniture from the Kaufman collection. Funny you should mention Mongomery's #360. I built one very similar to that one, except the client couldn't accomodate the length, so we had to eliminate the extra center legs, the bottle drawers, and candle drawers, the very things that set it apart from all the others.
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