Replies

1. 
   sevans | Oct 28, 2008 04:50pm | #1

   Other than the wood type, that is exactly what I did and it worked great. I used maple. That was a year ago and I do not see any signs of the 1/8 veneer separating.

    http://www.my-wooden-creations.com 

2. 
   RickL | Oct 28, 2008 08:09pm | #2

   Cabinet refacers use 23 ga headless pins as well. Never seen a refacer who didn't have one. Used to work as a tech for a tool dealer and we sold pinners to all the refacers. Pin guns used to cost $600. You have no idea how many tools are availblae to the hobby guys for next to nothong in cost.

3. 
   byhammerandhand | Oct 29, 2008 01:17am | #3

   You should get and read http://www.amazon.com/Refacing-Cabinets-Making-Kitchen-Homebuilding/dp/1561581976/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1225232103&sr=8-3 for options on this. It's a good book.

4. 
   woodentrain | Oct 29, 2008 04:23am | #4

   I used the "Quality Doors" stuff sold at HD and Lowes. 5 years later it still looks like new.

5. 
   stevemorris | Oct 29, 2008 01:48pm | #5

   the cabinet sides are fairly easy to cover with oak veneer ply, just cut the pieces slightly oversized, glue with contact cement(i use latex based stuff) and trim with a block plane the front edges can be faced with veneer edge tape, but watch the width of the strips, the stuff from hd is usually too narrow. solid wood banding is also an option after removeing the old edge tape, nailed and glued on. keep it thin, or the hinge geometry will be wrong

   another option for the cabinet ends is a full 5/8 overlay sheet screwed to the cabinet from the inside and dimensioned to extend to the front face of the doors