After making the profile, what is the best way to sand it w/o destroying the look or rounding out any of it’s edges?
Thanks,
dlb
.
After making the profile, what is the best way to sand it w/o destroying the look or rounding out any of it’s edges?
Thanks,
dlb
.
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialGet instant access to over 100 digital plans available only to UNLIMITED members. Start your 14-day FREE trial - and get building!
Become an UNLIMITED member and get it all: searchable online archive of every issue, how-to videos, Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking digital series, print magazine, e-newsletter, and more.
Get complete site access to video workshops, digital plans library, online archive, and more, plus the print magazine.
Already a member? Log in
Replies
dlb , Depending on the detail usually a combination of machine / block sander maybe and hand sanding should do it , you can make a sanding block to fit the detail also . Some material machines more better than others .
happy sanding dusty from sanding
maybe a cabinet scraper ?
I was wondering about trying a drywall foam sanding block. I just completed some doors w/ a classical profile and sanding each level of the profile would be quite tedious; hense, the sanding block. The doors are made of poplar which mills fairly well but it still requires some sanding.
Thanks for the replies.
dlb
.
The undisciplined life is not worth examining.
D,
I am not being flippant: the best way is to machine the profile so that the surface is such that sanding is only required for tactile purposes alone- i.e it is smooth enough to apply polish on, then some sanding happens for de-nibbing.....You are not supposed to be sanding out defects in machining .
Most decent quality router bits should give you that-assuming the wood is "decent" too i.e not hairy of fluffy stuff. And variable speed routers come into their own.
And so should a spindle moulder. I do make some of my own cutters and always expect to get a finish that requires only the lightest sanding e.g 220 grit on Iroko. If you are interested I can do some photos of examples of this.
So if you start off right, then the mildest of hand/finger held sandings will do it. Small quirks and steps are dealt with by folding the paper to form a chisel edge or you can wrap it around a suitable square edged block. At corners in particular one needs to be careful otherwise the miter effect/spine is lost, so for bigger mouldings I have felt lined blocks either concave or convex. But still-only the very lightest of sandings...
You are quite right- crisp profiles look far superior to that sanded, rounded look
It's very rare that I have to sand a routered profile. Paying very close attention to grain direction while laying out your stock pays off in hours of NOT sanding. And making a final pass of a 1/64-1/32 kiss works for me. Not to mention sharp bits.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Bruce, that is so.But, to mention sharp (router) bits: because of the high number of cuts per inch and the very little relief angle common on most router bits the resultant surface usually is smooth, but there can be a bit of burnishing, particularly on some woods, and that has an effect on the finish applied, so it may still require a light sanding. Not to mention that cutters often leave small serrations particularly after use on abrasive woods.
Sounds like splitting hairs, but what is the use of a perfect table top surface, but the moulded edge is less than perfect?Philip Marcou
Hi Philip and all ,
First off I never saw that the op said he used a router bit and not a shaper cutter . Not to split hairs but machining lets say door parts without sanding the detail certainly can and is done , but,,, the finish comes out so much nicer and more even after sanding .
As you said in your second post some burnishing or glazing may be present in some spots. A raised panel and all its end grain will need smoothing . Defects from machining happen , even with sharp cutters in some species . The surface is not always smooth.At least this can be true with our domestic species .
I was taught to remove the tool or machine marks with each successive step .
I do sand all my detail and any profiled molding and such , and believe this prep work and effort becomes evident to the eyes and touch .I think it's what can set a makers work apart from others .
I don't promise them perfect but , I do promise "the best of my ability"
Regards from Oregon dusty
good reply and thanks for the information.
dlb
.
The undisciplined life is not worth examining.
Puts some cellophane over the profile, uses some Bondo to make a custom sanding block -- make it fairly long, glue a handle to it.
Use it to sand the profile -- if the block is long enough it should help you keeping the sharp edges in place.
Good luck.
EW
I have found it helpful to break the sharp corners on raised panels as I sand. I use shellac and the surface tension effect on a sharp corner will make the finish very thin on the edge. If you plan on rubbing out the finish, you will risk sanding through. I learned this the hard way after having to hand brush in colored shellac where I inadvertently went through on a corner.
When the piece is finished, it is the shadow line that the eye sees, not necessarily the edges. Keeping the edges sharp may not add to the aesthetic.
The way I judge it is to run my hand across the edge and see if it feels comfortable. A too sharp edge will scrape your hand.
Just replying to the first question, hit the wrong "to" ...
A
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled