Replies

1. 
   Routerman | Jun 24, 2004 04:25pm | #1

   Allow me a contrarian view.

   Cutters>2" should not see the collets in 110 volt routers. The shaper is the tool for big edge profiles.

   Routers

2. 
   dperfe | Jun 24, 2004 04:32pm | #2

   I've done raised panels with my 2hp Bosch, and simple rockler table. It takes time because you have to do multiple passes. Make sure fence is seure, the router mounting plate stays flush with the table top and that you're able to securely feed the work into the cutter. I just started a similar thread http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-knots&msg=18268.1

   I'm doing a 16'x16' kitchen with island, and 2 bathrooms. I will likely purchase the shaper.

   Hope this helps.

   David

1. 
   PaulBinCT | Jun 24, 2004 04:48pm | #3

   Hmmm... sounds like what I thought (feared ;) ) it might... a split decision.  Thanks guys, appreciate the time taken for the replies...

1. 
   jackplane | Jun 24, 2004 04:54pm | #4

   dperfe is right, you can do it. It's best to use vertical raised bits rather than traditional horizontal bits because of the centrifigal force encountered.

3. 
   CStanford | Jun 24, 2004 05:06pm | #5

   You need a 2+ HP router with speed control.  Panel raising bits need to run around 12,000 rpm.

   Of course, a big shaper is even better.

1. 
   PaulBinCT | Jun 24, 2004 05:18pm | #6

   I've got a few big VS speed routers... I just have misgivings about spinning something that big on a router table.

1. 
   TJinFL | Jun 24, 2004 05:29pm | #7

   Paul,

   I just completed a shop cabinet and raised the panels for the doors on my router table.  I used my 3hp PC and lowered the RPM to 10-12k, but still took multiple passes.  They came out great.  If you only have a few doors to do, I wouldn't rush out and invest in a shaper just for that job.  Your router will work fine.

   Terry

4. 
   mudman | Jun 24, 2004 05:37pm | #8

   You don't mention the size of the router. 3 horses is considerd a minimum for this kind of work by most. The router also needs to be secure in the table.

   Mike

   please excuse my spelling.
1. 
   PaulBinCT | Jun 24, 2004 05:51pm | #9

   I've got a 3hp PC fixed base, and a 3 hp DeWalt plunge...

5. 
   RickL | Jun 24, 2004 05:56pm | #10

   Raised panels certainly can be done on a router table. You can also do them on the table saw without having a router table as well.  They can be done with a saw blade and or in conjunction with a moulding head. There's some good books on doing this and I think you find a lot of ideas on doing this already published in many different books and magazines. There's very few new questions. Mosty it's new people asking old questions.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 6/24/2004 2:15 pm ET by rick3ddd

1. 
   Windwoodtrader | Jun 24, 2004 09:08pm | #11

   By using a combination of the tablesaw to "pre-bevel" the router cut a good deal of meat is off the bone when you get to the router table.

   I use this method when I'm moulding casing or other trim. Takes a load off the final cutter/bit. Smaller chunks flying around as well. I think that about an 8 degree pitch works well as I remember.(:-)

   Windy Wood

   From the Helderberg Mountains

1. 
   PaulBinCT | Jun 24, 2004 10:47pm | #12

   Thanks for all the suggestions, I think I'm going to give it a shot... I'll keep you posted.

1. 
   Alan | Jun 25, 2004 02:39am | #13

   Paul,

   For much less than the price of a three horse router, router table and bits, you can get a top-quality panel raising plane.  Cheaper, quieter, safer, dustless...  Where's the problem?

   Alan (perhaps proselytizing again)

1. 
   CStanford | Jun 25, 2004 02:09pm | #14

   As a handtool only user, I agree.  But in the interest of fair disclosure it should be noted that a panel raising plane only cuts one profile. 

2. 
   Alan | Jun 26, 2004 02:02am | #17

   cstanford,

   True, true.  Just as a router bit can make only one profile.  But, of course, another router bit costs less than a new panel raiser.

   Then again, what's wrong with using only one profile? 

   But if the yearning for another profile strikes, you can use your current panel raiser to get close and then modify the profile with a scratch stock.

   Also in the interest of fair disclosure, Paul can make a raised panel with a router, or table saw, or plow-plane and just about any block or bench plane.  The skill level required is minimal and the investment would be zero.

   Alan

   Edited 6/26/2004 7:39 pm ET by Alan

3. 
   random | Jun 26, 2004 02:40am | #18

   Remember to mill your end grain side first and you should be connecting some kind of dust collection device secured to your table. A feather board helps as a safety device to keep the digits safe also! Have fun and take relief cuts as everyone is recommending.-ogee

4. 
   PaulBinCT | Jun 25, 2004 03:52pm | #15

   All very true Alan.  To be candid, this isn't something I often need to do and since I have the router and table I think the learning curve to do it "Norm style" is much less then the alternative.  In a nutshell, expediency ;)

6. 
   jackhall | Jun 25, 2004 07:44pm | #16

   I have made raised panels out of 3/4" birch using my 1 1/4 HP Makita router on a router table.  The cutter head was 3/4" deep and about 2 1/2" diameter.  Of course I had to make multiple passes on each edge but I never had a problem.

7. 
   Dave45 | Jun 26, 2004 06:08am | #19

   Another important issue is the size of the worktable.  You can do the job with pretty much any router if you take several passes.  Just make sure that your worktable is big enough so you aren't fighting the piece to keep it from dropping.  (Been there, done that, got the T-shirt............and some really ugly scraps in the scrap barrel - lol)