Replies

1. 
   chuckh | Sep 04, 2006 07:06am | #1

   I used good old clear pine.  All of mine are painted.

2. 
   woodlark | Sep 04, 2006 06:44pm | #2

   We have some made of poplar. They've held paint well, and no warping yet.

3. 
   nikkiwood | Sep 04, 2006 07:15pm | #3

   Any type of wood will do -- as long as it is finished all the way around.

   Do you know about using sheet metal under the top to maximize the heat transfer efficiency of the radiator?

   ********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

1. 
   rxmpo | Sep 04, 2006 09:40pm | #4

   Yes, but I was thinking of venting the top using a grid of 3/8" holes made with my mortiser? No need to direct heat if i let it rise out the top.  Any thoughts about that idea?  This is what it might look like:  

                   <-board ->

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   l    X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X   l

   l    X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X   l

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1. 
   nikkiwood | Sep 04, 2006 11:35pm | #5

   Ordinarily, manufactured radiator covers don't have vent holes on the top of the enclosure. Aside from the fact people will drop stuff through the holes, I assumed it would not make the radiators more efficient. I had to build a flock of wood radiator covers a long time ago, and I was surprised to learn how much wood covers impede heat transfer from the radiator.I found out that you can bring back much of the heat efficiency by doing two things:1) Build your enclosure with a solid top, but in a way that you can cover the bottom (of the top) with sheet metal (aluminum sheets work fine) -- with the one edge attached to the back, and the rest of the sheet curved over and attached to the front. None of this is visible from the outside.Make sure there is a 2-3" space at the bottom of your cover. This promotes heat convection, with the sheet metal expelling he hot air from the top of the cover, and the space at the bottom taking in cooler air. 2) Make the cover so you can fit a piece of 1/2 or 3/4" foil faced insulation at the back of the unit. Again, this is not visible when the radiator cover is in place, but it helps considerably in radiating heat outward, especially since most radiators are placed on exterior walls. I have built radiator covers for my own house using these techniques, and they work very well. However, there may be other, better techniques that have come along in the last 15 years or so. ********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

1. 
   pezzi | Sep 06, 2006 06:41pm | #6

   I am currently building radiator covers from 3/4" MDF. They have a large opening in the front - covered with "union jack" pattern perforated aluminum sheet, available in 2'x3' or 2'x2' sheets from my local lumberyard for about $25 each. they also have a cutout near the bottom so cold air cen enter unimpededly (is that a word ?)I routed a chamfer in the openings and the corners but you can do all sorts of fancy edge treatments with router.I primed and painted them with ordinary trim paint.Hope this helpsPatrick

4. 
   Kirk | Sep 06, 2006 11:33pm | #7

   Hello,

   I'm building mine using MDF for the top and sides, the front slats, stiles, rails & trim are poplar.

   When I was researching styles, construction, etc. I was able to get a few ideas from this site...

   http://www.woodenradiatorcabinet.com/english/home.html