Replies

1. 
   DAC | May 15, 2005 05:17am | #1

   For new wood, I've used a 60/40 mix of Minwax "red oak" and "provincial" stains...  apply liberally, and using a chip brush, dab the stain into the pores.  then wipe off, and set for 24 hours and wipe off again. 

   This gives a pretty nice dark oak finish in the mission style.   But I'm too novice to know exactly how to handle wood that has been stained already...  and if sealed, could be difficult -- I'm guessing.

2. 
   CharlieD | May 15, 2005 06:09am | #2

   Do you want the rays to stand out? If you do, here's my trick:

   I just did this with white oak, also quarter sawn. Mix a TransTint dye (http://www.homesteadfinishing.com) into 50/50 denatured alcohol and water. Test the dye on scrap until you get the color you want. Apply the dye to the wood and let it dry; then lightly scuff sand with no larger grit than 320. Sometimes I even use 600 just to make sure I don't over-sand. This will take more off the rays than the normal wood, making them stand out. If you want to make them stand out more, wipe down the porject with a rag dampened in alcohol.

   Now if your'e asking how to match the colors, I really don't know. But this porcedure will give you quarter sawn rays that really stand out.

   Good luck,

   Charlie

   I tell you, we are here to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you different. --K Vonnegut
3. 
   DougF | May 15, 2005 03:58pm | #3

   Charlie's on the right track about Trans Tint.  Try  various blends until you get the color to match.  But a caution: if you are using alcohol with Trans Tint, or any other dye for that matter, application over a large area is tricking since the alcohol flashes off quickly and you can get overlap lines.  For a large area like a table top, I would mist spray until I achieved the depth of color I want.  You can also use water-based dyes to get the same results.  The difference is that you have to first lightly wet the surface and then lightly sand the raised grain before applying the dye.  If you do this, please be sure to use distilled water to avoid mineral stains in the wood.

   Doug

1. 
   CharlieD | May 16, 2005 07:19pm | #4

   "since the alcohol flashes off quickly and you can get overlap lines"Agreed; that's why I mix into 50/50 alcohol and water. Mitigates the raised grain some, doesn't take as long to dry.CharlieI tell you, we are here to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you different. --K Vonnegut

1. 
   DougF | May 16, 2005 07:43pm | #5

   Charlie,

   ".... 50/50 alcohol and water.": sounds like happy hour is an appropriate precursor to a stint in the work shop :)

   Of course, sans power tools.

   Doug

1. 
   CharlieD | May 17, 2005 05:56am | #7

   I have considered mixing TransTint into a single malt--might lend a nice amber hue--but I'm afraid Peter36 will hunt me down and skin me...CharlieI tell you, we are here to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you different. --K Vonnegut

2. 
   SWW | May 17, 2005 08:10pm | #8

   Just a couple of notes of caution.

   1) I've gotten into trouble in the past because I made up a batch of dye that was way too strong. It went on like diluted stain -- really dark and opaque in the porous and open parts of the wood. I tried to remove it with no luck. So, I'd recommend you a) read the directions, and b) sneak up on the shade you want with several coats of dye properly diluted.

   2) Oak accepts dye very unevenly. Some parts, like the rays, will remain nearly white, while others will accept deep color. The result can be very "busy" looking and even mottled. I'm not sure I like it.

   3) Read Jeff Jewitt's online article about achieving a Mission finish using dye. He has the touch!

   Good luck!

3. 
   WillGeorge | May 19, 2005 06:11pm | #10

   be sure to use distilled water to avoid mineral stains in the wood!!

   YOU BET!  I did that once on white oak! Tap water!  What a mess!

1. 
   DougF | May 19, 2005 06:17pm | #11

   As I found out this past weekend, sweat stains on western big leaf maple is also a no-no.

1. 
   WillGeorge | May 19, 2005 07:21pm | #12

   LOL  You usin' a low-angler' plane on it?

1. 
   DougF | May 19, 2005 08:32pm | #13

   No. 4 with a high-angle frog and a scraper plane. 

4. 
   mudman | May 16, 2005 08:18pm | #6

   alcohol based aniline dye is your best bet. It will darken the wood without highlighting the pores too much. I will look more natural if it is sprayed. If you intend to not stain the dark side but only get the light side to match, it will be dificult. Mainly because stains will highlight the grain even if the over all colour matches. You might want to bleach the darker side that will look more natural if successful.

   Good luck.

   Mike

   please excuse my spelling.
5. 
   sneezy | May 18, 2005 08:22pm | #9

   Perhaps knowing what material (stain, dye etc.) that was used on the lighter side would help.