Replies

1. 
   BG | Sep 20, 2005 08:44pm | #1

   DDay,
   This was an interesting thread you might find helpful:

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=22470.14

2. 
   Elcoholic | Sep 20, 2005 11:47pm | #2

   Amonia fuming followed by oil will show the flake like no other method.  Allow the oil to cure thoroughly and top coat as desired.  If you want to use w/b poly for durability add a barrier coat of 2# dewaxed shellac. 2nd best would be to use w/b dye stain like transtint instead of fuming.

   John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   The more things change ...

   We trained hard, but it seemed that every time we were beginning to form up into teams, we would be reorganized.  I was to learn later in life that we tend to meet any new situation by reorganizing; and a wonderful method it can be for creating the illusion of progress while producing confusion, inefficiency, and demoralization.

   Petronious Arbiter, 210 BC

3. 
   billsams | Sep 22, 2005 01:44am | #3

   Look at my post and pics in the "general discussion- red or white oak"

   If you like the way that turned out, I can explain how it did it. If you dislike, then there is no need to go into a long explanation.

   Bill

1. 
   lumberjacksson | Sep 23, 2005 01:39am | #4

   Beauty cabinets.  I'm interested in the finish if you'd like to share.

    

   Andy

1. 
   billsams | Sep 23, 2005 01:23pm | #5

   Andy and all,This procedure is how I did it and I am not claiming to be an expert on finishing. I highly recommend experimenting with this method or any other to be assured of your final product as well as procedural time frames you can work with.As noted in previous posts/discussions, sanding to high grit (ie 320) does not allow deep penetration of stain. In this particular project, that was what was needed/desired.So ....everything WAS sanded to 320 grit.
   With foam brush applied "olympic red oak stain" (oil-based)
   set 10 minutes then wipe off with paper rags ("rags in a box")
   set 10 mintes wipe with new rag soaked with mineral spirits. this step almost completely removes the stain but highlights the "fleck"
   set 10 minutes, take your original wipe off stain rag,(soaked with stain) rubbing in the shade of color shade you desire, rub in the direction of the grain on the final sweeps,
   set 30 minutes or more, with cloth rag LIGHTLY rub the stain smooth.
   If needed or desired, rub lightly again with same cloth rag. Very little stain should be rubbing off at this point. BE CAREFUL as you can in fact remove the stain color by rubbing too hard.Set overnight 8-10 hours2 brush on coats of "bullseye Universal Sander Sealer" diluted with denatured alchohol by 15-20 percent. I dilute to eliminate the sanding sealer from drying too quickly.set 2-4 hours320 grit soft maroon scrubbie the coat of sanding sealer, just to remove lap marks or drips2 successive coats ( no sanding between) "Ceramithane Gloss" water based finish. Let first coat set for 4-6 hours before applying second coat. (This gives a nice durable gloss coat finish)The customer wanted a satin finish so
   Maroon scrubbie lightly after the two coats gloss, then apply 1 coat "satin Ceramithane"Thats it. Hope that helps.
   Ceramithane is rated by the Kitchen Cabinet and Harwood Floor Associations for a hard and durable finish. I have now used it for about 2 years and have found it a wonderful finish.Here's a link to "Graham" manufacturer of Ceramithane. Highland hardware is the only mail order I know where you can purchase, if your local store cannot provide.
   http://www.grahampaint.com/howto_wood.htmFeel free to ask questions
   Bill