Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | May 31, 2003 01:25am | #1

   Can't comment on the Varathane pros and cons, but just a heads up to the effect that the oak is going to take Watco differently than the pine did.  Safe to assume you'll be testing the whole process on scrap before starting on the floor?

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   Straycatlady | May 31, 2003 06:44am | #2

   Yes, I will do a test run on a sample board before putting on floor.  I am using Natural as that will bring out the natural color and graining without adding color.  I always prefer the natural color of woods.  Thanks for your tip.

1. 
   LeeSorenson | Jun 05, 2003 07:06pm | #3

   NL,

    

   Here is a friendly bump back to the top…

    

   I would have thought you would have received a lot more information on this subject in this finishing forum than you have.  There are alot of good people here with heaps of experience to lend a hand to those for the asking.

    

   You might have better luck in the Fine Homebuilding Forum “Breaktime” since they deal with floors… but I would have bet the farm that you would have found the information you requested here.

    

   Since I am about to finish the floors on my own home, I look forward to the replies to this question.

    

   LS

1. 
   Tao | Jun 05, 2003 11:52pm | #4

   If I were doing it, I would find a flooring supply shop and buy my materials there.  There is a variety of choices, depending on durability, price, and ease of application.

   The easiest and oldest finishes are "oil based" polyurethanes.  These are tougher and less prone to scratching than the kind sold for general wood finishing.  They are very easy to apply with a lambs wool applicator (kind of like a dust mop.)  They dry slowly and generally take about 48 hours before you can walk on them.  Recoat times vary.  They are also a dust magnet while drying, so seal off the room, vacuum and dust THOROUGHLY, and leave the furnace fan OFF, especially on your final coat.

   Next are the lacquer based products like Fabulon, which dry a lot faster -- some of the floor people like it a lot.  I haven't used it personally, but it should be pretty easy to apply, too.

   Then there are catalyzed products like Basic Coatings and other brands that I can't recall.  They put on a thinner but more durable coating.  The ones I have used are water based, but they are harder to apply and the fumes are a little bit toxic.  Probaly best tleft to experienced pro's. 

   I wouldn't put anything meant for furniture finishing on a floor, nor would I put a floor finish on furniture or cabinetry.  I know people who have put "oil finishes" usually just thinned furniture varnish of one kind or another on floors, and it might be suitable for very light use, but does not hold up at all well in high traffic areas.

   Michael R

1. 
   Kevin | Jun 11, 2003 08:25am | #9

   Great advice. I particularly agree with not putting furniture finishes on floors. They look great but won't stand up to the abuse a floor gets.

   BTW, Fabulon is a great product. I've never actually used it on a floor though. My employer does a fair amount of interpretive work for the federal government (BLM, Fish & Wildlife, Forest Service, etc) as well as for some western states (state fish & wildlife agencies). This one U.S. Fish & Wildlife job I did a couple years ago had these plexiglass cases that were part of an interpretive display that was supposed to look like an underwater cross-section of a large stream. The plex case had to get a transparent bluish coating to enhance the whole "water" appearance of the display. Fabulon was the first product that I tried which didn't attack the plexiglass. We tried both acrylic and poly carbonate "plexiglass" and it didn't make any difference. The solvents caused crazing and/or attacked the plex glue used to make the display. But, Fabulon worked perfectly. It sure runs easy though when sprayed.

   Regards,

   Kevin

2. 
   Straycatlady | Jun 10, 2003 08:18pm | #7

   Thanks for the bump back to the top.  Got some good advice from Campbelldust about a product I've never heard of.  Worth checking out.  Thanks again for the assist.  Hey, we are both "Lee" . . . how about that!

2. 
   ccampbell | Jun 06, 2003 09:52pm | #5

   I've had great success with Bona Kemi products.  They are very expensive, but water-based, almost no odor, quick dry (can walk on it in socked feet in just 3 to 4 hours), you can do multiple coats in a day, and it's more durable than poly.  I did my floors about six years ago and I have a 95 lb. labrador.  They still look great.  She can marr the wood fibers but not actually scratch off the finish.

1. 
   Straycatlady | Jun 10, 2003 08:14pm | #6

   Thanks for your reply.  Sounds good.  Don't mind the expense if I can get a good job.  Where do you get the Bona Kemi products?  I am afraid I have never heard of them.  Of course, there is a LOT that I have never heard of.  Like the idea that you can apply several coats within the same day. 

1. 
   ccampbell | Jun 11, 2003 12:59am | #8

   NancyLee,

   Here is their web site address:  http://www.bonakemi.com/ .  So far I've only been able to get it from a flooring contractor in my area.  None of the box stores carry it that I've ever seen.  You may have to call around some or contact the company.  The last time I used it, it was around $60/gallon.

   PS - make sure you check with them on compatibility over other products.  It IS compatible with oil based stains, which is what I used.  You just want to be sure.

   Edited 6/10/2003 6:12:17 PM ET by CAMPBELLDUST

1. 
   Straycatlady | Jun 11, 2003 09:14pm | #10

   Thanks Campbelldust!  I went and checked out their website and found a Bona distributor within 30 minutes from where I live.  Great luck!

   One more thing; did you use Pacific Strong, Pacific Ultra, or Bona Tech Traffic? 

   NL

1. 
   ccampbell | Jun 11, 2003 10:05pm | #11

   They've changed their product line up a little since I used them.  The first time around I think I used the Pacific Strong.  It's a two part system that requires mixing of the components before applying them - kind of an activation they call "cross linking".  The next time I used them they had come out with a new product that did not require the mixing - I THINK it might have been the MEGA.  I used that the next couple of times I did floors because I was all for the single step process.  I can't tell the difference between the two in either sheen or durability.  From looking at their site I see they have a new product called TRAFFIC that seems enticing.

   I had good luck applying it by putting the finish in an old bike water bottle with a squirt top.  I had a paint pole with a paint pad on the end.  I'd squirt down a line about 4 inches wide or so and then draw it with the grain using the pad.  It goes on nice and smooth that way and is easy to control.  You'll get a feel for how much to use as you go.

2. 
   Straycatlady | Jun 13, 2003 06:50am | #12

   Campbelldust:  Thank you for all the info you have given me.  I appreciate your telling me how it was applied.  Always can use advice from people who have already used the product.  Beats getting down on my knees to do it.  I'm not sure when I will "tackle" my flooring, but will let you know how it turns out.  Was hoping to do it before hot weather got here.  Running a little late! 

   NL

3. 
   jeffn7 | Jun 15, 2003 01:48am | #13

   the water bottle idea is a good one, thanks. I've always used a garden watering can with a small tip for dispensing the finish.

   as for finish itself, I have red oak floors in my home and a dog that is the size of, well a large dog, that tears through the house. No eyesore scratches on my floors, and they are finished with Varathane (oil-based) super build formula. My parents have maple floors and I can see scratches in theirs, but I attribute that more to the high gloss finish they have while I went with satin.

4. 
   Kevin | Jun 15, 2003 02:26am | #14

   My parents have maple floors and I can see scratches in theirs, but I attribute that more to the high gloss finish they have while I went with satin.

   That reminds me of something to keep in mind when refinishing floors with water-based finishes such as Fabulon. My paint salesman buddy that I've mentioned here before, being the handyman that he is, decided to refinish their Maple dining room floor. His wife teaches dance classes out of their home and the Maple floor had taken quite a lot of abuse from the kid's tap shoes. Well... he sanded it all down nice and flat and applied a water-based floor finish. Everything looked great. The next morning he went to admire his handywork and found that every single dented spot (from the tap shoes) had swelled up above the rest of the floor. The water in the finish had swelled each compressed area back to it's pre-dent size... which was now above the rest of the sanded down wood. Long story short... he ended up sanding it all down and refinishing the floor. LOL

   Regards,

   Kevin