Replies

1. 
   jeffn7 | Feb 13, 2003 09:24pm | #1

   there have been some good recent threads on this, you might want to search on the archives. The information really helped me with a couple of purpleheart projects I was working on.

   Also, this wood isn't nearly as hard to work with as some would indicate, at least not any more difficult than maple, IMO. I resawed it, planed it, jointed it, routed it, ripped and crosscut it, and sanded/scraped with it few issues. Grain direction is important when planing, and scoring helps reduce splintering.

   good luck, it's a really beautiful wood to work with.

2. 
   UncleDunc | Feb 13, 2003 10:35pm | #2

   All the information I've seen indicates that it will eventually turn brown no matter what you finish it with. How long is 'eventually' is hard to pin down. Factors include exposure to light, exposure to direct sunlight or other UV sources, vapor permeability of finish, temperature, maybe humidity. We had a purple heart discussion here two or three weeks ago, and nobody wanted to give a number.

3. 
   Splintie | Feb 14, 2003 03:05am | #3

   more purpleheart stuff

   I was informed by a member of the board that Armor-All has silicone in it, so it would be a very, very bad idea to put it on before a coat of film-forming finish. Google on "fisheye" in this context.

4. 
   jonweis59923 | Feb 14, 2003 03:07am | #4

   In my experience in using purpleheart I have found that it does indeed demand sharp cutters especially for edge forming and particularly with end grain.  With regards to holding color I have had very good results using Watco Natural and both poly and nitro cellulose lacquer finishes.

   Having seen several posts concerning the loss of color I think that perhaps the origin of the material may possibly have something to do with it's ability to hold it's color.  I have built several pieces over the last 4 years using material from Mexico.  It's actually machines as car or lap siding and have experienced no such darkening to brown and in one case it has lightened to a pinkish hue shown here in this 4 year old table. http://www.wood-workers.com/~jonweis/images/MVC-727S.JPG

   This second picture is of a credenza which is now 3 years old.

   http://www.wood-workers.com/~jonweis/credenza/image_4.html

   Neither of these pieces get lot's of direct sunlight but are located in rooms that have large windows with sun flooding into the rooms during the daytime hours.  Go figure!

   Jon

   "Knot's to you"

   http://www.wood-workers.com/~jonweis

    

5. 
   dirtstirrer | Feb 14, 2003 06:15am | #5

      It really suprised me how far I had to open the throat on my hand planes to get the stuff to actually plane properly.  I've finshed a couple of pieces with the same BLO, turp, urethane wipe on that Garrett Hack was demonstrating in FWW a few issues ago with good results.  Mostly picture frames in well lighted areas.  No fading so far.  Watch out for splinters though, the stuff is lousy with them no matter what you do to it.  It sure does carry a high wow factor when your done, its worth the extra input I think.

                   Steve