Replies

1. 
   boilerbay | Apr 29, 2009 05:09pm | #1

   The Teak is already loaded with oil and part of it's greatest charm is that it turns that fantastic silver color. If you want it to look like boat decking, you might look on West Marine's web site. see Epifanes

   Try

   http://www.westmarine.com

   Boilerbay

1. 
   jabe | Apr 29, 2009 07:20pm | #4

   Thanks for the quick response. Will have to decide what way to go. Letting it alone may be best.

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Apr 29, 2009 05:15pm | #2

   If you are willing to clean and reapply the oil every couple of months you can use any marine teak oil. No oil finish lasts very long. A longer lasting finish is to use a good, real marine exterior varnish. Fine Woodworking's current issue has an article and test on outdoor finishes. The best turned out to be Epifanes Clear Varnish. It's available at marine supply stores or marinas. Don't bother with any of the big box brands of "spar poly". They are the first to fail in any extended test.

   However, the best solution is to keep the items under cover when not in use. Or, spend the money to get covers made using a marine cover material like Sunbrella. If you have a sailmaker near by, he will sew some up for you.

   Howie.........
1. 
   jabe | Apr 29, 2009 07:26pm | #6

   Thanks for advice. I  think maybe letting it natural will be best bet  Preserving every year could be a real chore and gets old fast

                                             Regards

                                             Jabe

3. 
   hammer1 | Apr 29, 2009 06:19pm | #3

   I'm considering using this product on my sail boat.

   http://allguardproducts.com/?Home~IndAN

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   jabe | Apr 29, 2009 07:23pm | #5

   Thanks for the tip. The catalog sells a wateborne product that is supposed to restoe natural finish but I think it falls into the big box product category 

                                       Regards

                                         Jabe

4. 
   MikeHennessy | Apr 29, 2009 07:40pm | #7

   FWIW, I have a nice teak table that sits on my back porch, out of the direct elements. It's still a nice tan color with no oil, sealer or stain, after 20 yrs. Sanded it down once 5 or 6 years ago to remove some stains, but that's about it.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

1. 
   jabe | Apr 29, 2009 11:33pm | #8

   Thanks for the info Mike.

                                            regards

                                              jabe

5. 
   Dorsett | Apr 30, 2009 12:00am | #9

   Jabe,

   I own a Boston Whaler, with exposed teak trim.

   Don't waste your time with even the high end varnishes. Eventually, every year, you'll sand each piece and apply one or two new coats. It is a lot of work, expensive and last for three quarters of the summer.

   At first I let the wood turn silver gray. After two years I had raised grain and multiple splinters.

   Now, at the start of each season, I lightly sand the rough areas and apply teak oil. The silver gray returns to the original brown. I apply it with a brush, let it soak in for ten minutes and wipe off the excess with a cloth rag. Watco works well. Star Brite is probably the best in a marine environment. It lasts the entire season.

   Dorsett

1. 
   jabe | Apr 30, 2009 12:11am | #10

   Thanks I appreciate the sound advice. Ill look into the teak oil

                                                     Regards

                                                       Jabe

6. 
   WillGeorge | May 01, 2009 02:30am | #11

   Sir .. For what you pay for teak.. Just let it do what it wants to! You will pay the cost of the wood many times over just trying to keep up with it!

1. 
   jabe | May 01, 2009 05:10pm | #12

   Sir,

              Very sound advice!! I think I will take it. All other responders have given alternatives but the overiding fact is the upkeep.  Thanks 

                                  Jabe

1. 
   WillGeorge | May 02, 2009 03:08pm | #14

   And then again what Don01 posted.. I'd look into his ideas also.

   Your call! ;>)

   I'd would still leave it as was made. Teak was born and rasied in (Fresh) water! Maybe a garden hose spray ever day?

    

   Edited 5/2/2009 8:14 am by WillGeorge

7. 
   Don01 | May 02, 2009 04:57am | #13

   I have made some teak pieces for a friends sailboat. I did a bit of research on finishing and found a recomendation to apply a primer called Flashbond 300 or Flashbond 400. These are primer /sealer adhesion enhancers used in autobody refinishing (300) and architecture(400) to help the paint adhere to smooth surfaces.
   I then finished with several coats of Sikkens Marine.
   This will be the first summer these parts are tested (freshwater) so I cannot attest to their performance yet.
   None of the boaters recommended oil as it doesn't penetrate the wood. Some reported having to reapply at least yearly, often more frequently. Oil also attracts bugs and dirt - possibly because it cannot cure properly.
   The current issue of FWW has a nice article comparing some of the finishes mentioned.
   Teak is not porous so your oil has no where to penetrate to get a good anchor. The oil will rub, but most of it may rub off.

   The only exterior oily product I know of that has any life to it is the black gunk they soak power poles in.

   Don

1. 
   jabe | May 02, 2009 04:47pm | #15

   Thanks for your inputs. All of you have been very helpful. I learned something about teak from all these discussions and I think Ill just let it be teak.   Thanks Again

                                                 Jabe

1. 
   Don01 | May 04, 2009 02:56am | #16

   I saw a sailboat in the Monte Carlo harbor a couple of years ago. There was a plaque on the end of the boom indicating it was built in the '30's.
   I do not know the wood used for the gunwales but the finish was in immaculate condition.
   It was a working boat not a museum or display piece. Certainly whoever owned this craft had the resources and the pride to keep it maintained. The point being is the beauty of any wood is kept locked up in a protective sheath of bark etc. We are absolutely delighted, sometimes ecstatic, when we come across a beautiful story.We know we have to take steps to protect and preserve this story, but to what extent. Weather and wood force one to focus more on functionality rather than visual beauty. Maintaining the rubbed look requires a lot of rubbing.
   When I replaced most of my carpets with oak, I had unfinished wood installed and sanded. I then undertook the job of finishing. I have tried a number of oil products over the years. I bought a 16" burnisher and every couple of years I put on the black and/or green 3M pads and take off whatewver comes off. I then reapply whatever finish I am in the mood for. The patina remains, the floor is maturing nicely. I can easily repair any dings and dents.One consist comment I get from people is how much warmer and more comfortable my floor feels than their maintenance free prefinished flooring. Amazing what a coat of plastic can/can't do for a piece of wood. I am sure your chairs will develope their own character over time as the actual use will burnish the wood, so it won't have just a weathered look.Don