Replies

1. 
   Telemike | Oct 29, 2004 09:22am | #1

   I've used a bit of walnut plywood myself. For the showy parts of the piece, I use 1/16th(minus) cut veneer - curly, burl, or other cool air-dried stuff. That, I treat like solid wood and it looks like solid wood.

   For the workaday panels, I use the walnut plywood. You're right - the veneer is very thin and you can mess up really easily by sanding through. Repair is difficult and unsatisfying.

   I sand by hand with 220 or, quickly, by 220 random orbit. Then, I use watco clear and let it dry til there's no more smell. Then, 320 by hand or quickly by random orbit, and wipe on poly. If you sand through the veneer, curse a lot and make the #$@@$% thing again.

   Other woods, like cherry or birch, are splotchy unless you wash them with shellac first after 220 sanding, then sand with 320 and put on the wipe on poly.

   By the way, I start with Watco clear because it develops walnut color really well and penetrates well.

1. 
   Dick1931 | Oct 29, 2004 05:43pm | #2

   Good Morning telemiketoo -

   Thanks for the info.  Next time in town I'll get some Watco clear and give it a try on some cut-off pieces.  Sounds as if it should help me avoid the " make the #$@@$% thing again."

2. 
   Dick1931 | Oct 30, 2004 02:26am | #4

   Good Afternoon telemiketoo -

   Read your response again a few minutes ago.  You mentioned, "I use 1/16th(minus) cut veneer - curly, burl, or other cool air-dried stuff." 

   Your comment about cut veneer made me curious.  I don't know what it is, but it sounds interesting.  Is it a veneer you buy and glue to a substrate, something you re-saw and glue to a substrate, or maybe a product that can be buy ready for use?

   Thanks again, Dick 

1. 
   Telemike | Nov 05, 2004 07:14am | #5

   Any even reasonably thick veneer is not commercially available. You have to cut it and prepare it yourself. I resaw up to about 10 - 11", then use a drum sander to thickness and finish the cut side to about 1/16th" thick. I sand the flitch (solid piece the veneer sheets are cut from) after each sheet is sliced off. I get about 4 sheets from 4/4 wood and about 6 from 6/4 wood given the loss to sanding and cutting. Sometimes, when the band saw isn't cutting well, I get only 3 to a 4/4 piece.

   I have several complaints about commercial veneer:

   - It's so thin that it can't be sanded or the height adjusted after assembly without risk of sand through = $%&%*$&*

   - It is so thin that it doesn't refract/reflect light the same way that thick cut veneer and solid wood does. It looks like "veneer", not "solid wood".

   - Commercial veneer is sliced, not cut. That means that the wood is bent sharply by 30, 40, or more degrees at the cutting edge of the wedge shaped cutter. The fibers of the wood break and it absorbs finish (and stain, if you use that stuff) differently than solid wood. = blotchy.

   I cut all of my own veneer on the bandsaw. This is only a good stratgey if you're an amateur woodworker - doing this while making kitchen cabinets would earn you about $0.10/hour!

   I cut veneer from zebra striped walnut firewood, curly olive from windfall along the edge of the pasture, and really expensive (don't tell my spouse)wood from Northwest Timbers. Special wood goes a lot farther as veneer than as solid wood.

   Edited 11/5/2004 12:21 am ET by telemiketoo

1. 
   Dick1931 | Nov 05, 2004 08:10pm | #6

   Good Morning Telemiketoo -

   Thanks for the informative response!!

   Your comments about commercially available plywood help resolve matters that I had not understood. 

   Do you know of a publication that describes the overall process of re-sawing, sanding, substrate alternatives, glue-up, etc.  Or is this a process that you have learned through trial/error experience?

   I do have a Performax 16-32 sander that was obtained in damaged condition.  It is still un-restored and un-usable largely due to a lack of something that warranted the cost and effort.  Visions of panels that look and work like real wood are just what is likely to provide the motivation.  A benefit of $0.10 and hour also sounds pretty good to an old retired guy. 

   Thanks again, Dick 

2. 
   jackplane | Oct 29, 2004 06:51pm | #3

   handsanding with 220g is no problem,i'd avoid power sanding.