Replies

1. 
   fdampier5 | Jul 16, 2003 03:02am | #1

   paint

1. 
   Kevin | Jul 16, 2003 03:38am | #2

   LOL Frenchy...

   I'm tempted to agree. Poplar is probably my least favorite wood to finish. The green and grey streaks don't go away with stain very well. If push came to shove and I had to finish it... I'd probably opt for a dark stain color just to hide the variety of colors inherent in Poplar. I imagine a deep, rich red tone would be appropriate for the period?

   Regards,

   Kevin

1. 
   fdampier5 | Jul 17, 2003 02:03am | #5

   I'm sorry if I was too flip,  I have no excuse for my words,  it just seemed real cute and I weakened..

1. 
   Kevin | Jul 17, 2003 04:07am | #6

   Oh no. No apology necessary. I laughed as soon as I read it. I knew exactly what you were saying. <G>

   Regards,

   Kevin

2. 
   Paul_Snyder | Jul 16, 2003 05:27am | #3

   If you don't use paint, then use dye. Poplar looks pretty good with "walnut" or "cherry" colored dyes. Here's a sampe dyed "cherry";

   View Image
   Poplar Dyed "Cherry"

   I applied the dye by brush and used a few applications to get a rich color. For a more refined look, dye the wood, seal it with a coat of thinned finish, apply a glazing stain, and finish with your clearcoats.

   Paul

1. 
   Chris | Jul 16, 2003 03:39pm | #4

   Thanks to all for your suggestions.  Even before reading them, I had in effect done a combination of them.  Thus far, I have spray painted the carcase except for the top a sort of teal green that matches the room the dresser sits in, and I used a mixture of 1 part Watco Cherry and 2 parts Watco Natural on the top and drawer fronts.  I am still considering what to top coat the Watco with to add a little more protection...  maybe a satin poly?

   Chris

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Jul 17, 2003 05:57am | #7

   If the Watco is cured, odor free, and doesn't leave an indentation when you press it with your fingernail, then you can use varnish (including poly) over it for more durability. Scuff sand the Watco prior to using the varnish to promote good adhesion.

   Paul

1. 
   Kevin | Jul 17, 2003 08:22am | #9

   I've never seen Watco stain leave a thick enough film to be dentable, let alone sandable. How many coats would it take before it was built up enough for the finger nail test?

   What I've always done with Watco and Minwax oil stains is just give it the 24 hour cure that the can says to and then finish it with my choice of top coats. I've never had a problem. Of course I only use the one coat of Watco/Minwax just to impart color in the wood. Maybe that's what's different about the way I'm doing it?

   Regards,

   Kevin

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Jul 18, 2003 12:13am | #11

   Kevin - sounds like you're using the Watco the way it's intended. I only added the caution in the case Chris applied it too thick. You can build a film with oil/varnish blends like Watco, but it's not recommended - the finish will be soft. It's a bad idea to put a harder finish over a soft finish - it will crack/craze.

   I tend to apply stains like Minwax very heavy. Along the lines of the commercial where they show someone applying an even wet coat of the stain with a brush (though I use a rag for speed). The heavy coat imparts a lot more color to the wood (matching the color chart), but the stain can take days to dry. I add an ounce of japan drier to each quart of stain to make it dry overnight.

   Paul

2. 
   Kevin | Jul 18, 2003 03:11am | #12

   I only added the caution in the case Chris applied it too thick. You can build a film with oil/varnish blends like Watco, but it's not recommended - the finish will be soft. It's a bad idea to put a harder finish over a soft finish - it will crack/craze.

   Ahhh.... gotcha. Good point. :-)

   Regards,

   Kevin

2. 
   ron61 | Jul 17, 2003 06:10am | #8

   I have heard that Poplar would stain like Walnut or Cherry but never tried it.

   That really looks good 

   Thanks for the pic.

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Jul 18, 2003 12:06am | #10

   Poplar doesn't take stain very well. I've tried a couple kinds, including one that generally works on any kind of wood, and it didn't look very good on poplar. Dyes work a lot better.

   Paul

2. 
   migraine | Jul 20, 2003 07:42pm | #14

   Try the "dye" stains from   Star, Mohawk, or Behlen.   I have been told they are the same company, which should mean they are the same products, just different company names for commercial distributers, retail, and depending where you live in the U.S.   Mohawk's brand is called "Ultra Penetrating Stain"  this stuff is awesome.  Ulta stain should be applied with a spray gun (the $40.00 pot guns work well)   They also sell wiping stains that can have a top coat put over it in 15min, depending on weather conditions.   The wiping stains are a heavy body (lots of pigments)   The wiping stain do match the dye stain.  Oh yeah, how does 50+ colors sound.  Ultra stain can be added to lacquer for shading purposes.

1. 
   Kevin | Jul 20, 2003 08:17pm | #15

   Mohawk and Behlen are both subsidiaries of RPM. I don't believe Star is owned by RPM, though. Woodcrafters here in Portland carries both Mohawk and Behlen products. They told me that each sells unique colors in their touch up and stain product lines. As the guy at Woodcrafters explains it, Mohawk caters to the commercial market while Behlen caters to the DIYer, and that this explains why they each developed their own colors.

   FYI Sherwin Williams and M. L. Campbell (a subsidiary of SW) carry extensive dye stain lines - both alcohol and water soluable lines. I use mostly SW dyes along with one or two custom dye stains from M. L. Campbell. They work great and are available nationwide if not internationally. Sherwin Williams is one of the big four international producers of paint products. So, I imagine their stuff can be found just about anywhere.

   Regards,

   Kevin

1. 
   migraine | Jul 20, 2003 10:07pm | #16

   Your right, Mohawk is marketing to the commercial industry, but I was told by my old mohawk rep that most of their products are packaged in different containers for the retail market.   4-5 years ago, I ran out of some ultra penetrating stain and the West West coast warehouse was back ordered.  He sent me to a local woodworking store that carried Behlen and said the products were the same, along with most of their other products.  Now, as for Star, I thought thety were owned by RTM also, but I am probably wrong.   Plus, Mohawk is now a PITA because they have changed their minimum ordering requirements 

   And, as for Sherwin Williams, I gave up buying stains from local paint companies because it seemed to be that most of the stains did not have sufficient pigment.  Of course this might be one of those So.Calif's  Air Quality Management District (AQMD) restrictions.  I will look into Sherwin Williams' products.  It would be nice to find another local supplier.  Thanks for the info.         -Brian

2. 
   Kevin | Jul 20, 2003 10:27pm | #18

   All I know is what the local Woodcrafters guy told me about the color differences between Mohawk and Behlen. With very few exceptions, the bulk of my experience with the two companies is with Mohawk products - which are awesome IMO.

   Like you, I've had bad experiences working with local companies supplying stain. More often than not the guy at the counter supposedly "helping" me knows a great deal less about stains than I do. In my experience, though... Sherwin Williams and M. L. Campbell are exceptions. The trick is to not deal with the local retailer who is selling house paint. Instead, I deal with the nearest regional commercial accounts outlet of Sherwin Williams and of M. L. Campbell. That's typically where you're gonna find the folks who are familiar with the stains and finishes.

   Regards,

   Kevin

3. 
   Chris | Jul 20, 2003 01:38am | #13

   Well, to see how it turned out, follow the link below.

   http://public.fotki.com/WouldWerker/wouldwerkersfurniture/colonialdresser1.html

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Jul 24, 2003 06:28am | #19

   Chris - looks great! Nice job.Paul

1. 
   Sancho | Jul 24, 2003 05:42pm | #20

   When I build anything out of poplar its usually for paint grade. but I am going to spray some white poly on some doors im making outta poplar this week end. . But that might be a alternative to paint or stain., 

   Darkworks:  No Guns No Butter squilla and the bling bling.

4. 
   genes | Jul 20, 2003 10:24pm | #17

   Chris,  I finished some yellow poplar material with linseed oil.  I just dilluted the solution with paint thinner to decrease drying time.  The surface finish darkened very little.

   Gene