Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Aug 04, 2007 05:19am | #1

   Waterlox is a varnish, not an oil/varnish mix.  Polyurethane varnish won't add significantly more moisture resistance, although of course a thicker coating resists moisture better.  If you are concerned about moisture, I suggest a several more coats of Waterlox--which is available in Satin, as well as the Original/Sealer and Gloss.  While you are adding coats, you could use the Waterlox over the oil/varnish mix, and get significantly more moisture resistance. 

1. 
   non trad stu | Aug 06, 2007 11:51pm | #2

   Thank you for the response.  Perhaps I could have worded my original more precisely in that I know that Waterlox is a tung oil based finish not a varnish and did not mean to imply otherwise.  Do you advocate sanding between coats?

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Aug 07, 2007 02:25am | #3

   >> I know that Waterlox is a tung oil based finish not a varnish Waterlox IS a varnish. It's a varnish made with phenolic resin and tung oil. Any varnish is made with a resin and a drying oil that are heated together until a new compound called varnish is formed.The question becomes what Waterlox product are you using? There are a number of varnish products in the Waterlox line. There is the Original Gloss, the Original Satin, the Original Sealer/Finish and then there a couple of polyurethane varnish products.Go to the Waterlox site (http://www.waterlox.com) and click on the product you want info on. It will give you the answer to your sanding question.Howie.........

   Edited 8/6/2007 7:28 pm ET by HowardAcheson

2. 
   JMadson | Aug 07, 2007 02:28am | #4

   Unless it's 100% Tung oil, then it's varnish. 

3. 
   SteveSchoene | Aug 07, 2007 05:27am | #5

   Howie hit it right on the head.  Waterlox is varnish, polyurethane varnish is varnish, and some things like Formby's Tung Oil Finish are also varnish.  Watco Danish Oil, Minwax Antique Oil and home brew mixes, are oil/varnish mixtures and can't be allowed to build any thickness on the surface because they would dry very soft.  The big jump in protection comes from going from oil/varnish mixtures to varnish, not from traditional resin varnishes such as Waterlox to floor varnishes such as polyurethane varnish. 

   Continuing with Waterlox varnish over either a thin Waterlox varnish base coats or oil/varnish mixture will add significantly more moisture resistance and maintain the look that you like.  There is almost no advantage to polyurethane varnish in this situation.  Polyurethane varnish has a bit of advantage with respect to abrasion.  That's why its good for floors, or  work tables, but overkill abrasion resistance for most other applications.  But polyurethane varnish gives up a small bit of clarity and is limited in its ability to adhere to less than wonderful surfaces.  With polyurethane sanding between coats is important, unless the manufacturer's data sheet specifically indicates that there is a "window" for overcoating without sanding.  Waterlox is a bit less needful of sanding between coats, but with any varnish a light sanding to remove any dust or defects makes the end product more professional looking.