I have made a set of rosewood handles (cocobola), for a cabinet that I finished with wipe on polyurethane. After sanding the handles with 320 grit I applied the first coat on the rosewood. After two weeks it is still slightly tacky. I believe that the oil from the rosewood is interacting with the poly. The question is where do I go from here? I would like to finish with the poly but am afraid to put on another coat. Any suggestions?
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Replies
Rick,
Cocobolo is one of the most difficult woods to which to apply a finish. Oil finishes are a disaster. I have heard that an oil MAY eventually polymerize on cocobolo, but it will take a lifetime (and still look muddy).
The best finish for cocobolo is lacquer, which can be spectacular, either as a high-gloss film, or carefully rubbed to exactly mimic an "oil" finish.
Rich
Don't ever learn anything new. Rather than give you satisfaction that you know more than you did, it will only confirm you know less than you thought by opening horizons to things of which you had never dreamt and which you now must explore.
Rich 14,
Can I save the handles? Should I remove the poly, or at least the top film by sanding? Can I apply lacquer over a surface that has had poly on it?
Rick A
clean off as much as you can of the un-cured finish with lacquer thinner. Then coat with de-waxed shellac when dry ,two coats is better, scuff with medium steel wool and put on what ever finish you prefer.
Philip
Lacquer goes over shellac with no problem
Shellac will usually (but not always) bond to the oilier exotic stuff. You might try resanding, the seal with a coat or two of dewaxed shellac, then re-poly (or lacquer).
Waddaya mean it wont fit through the door?
Thanks for the advice!
Rick, I'd strip the poly off. After that, I've heard (but never tried) that multiple wash-downs with lacquer thinner, followed by shellac work well. Oil can be applied over shellac.
Only time I've finished rosewood was on very old Bailey plane totes and knobs, so I'm afraid that's not applicable in this case.
Good luck,
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