Hello!
I am working on trimming my master bdrm with Am. Cherry, which is quite beautiful, I must say. The finishing process so far is sand (sand, sand) wash-coat, sand, Danish Oil finish. I am considering applying a coat of satin polyurethane once all the pieces are installed. Thoughts? Experiences?
Thanks in advance!
Replies
First of let me say ......that I know nothing .....for sure anyway. But I have done a wax finish and then applied a poly as a top coat and then a wax finish. I didn't notice any problems. These are a few pic of a walnut bench and a pine top I'm working on using this application. Other than that I'm a Carpenter trying to get in out of the weather and more time in the shop. Bill D. QWC
Thanks for your input, Bill. Nice bench!
You've done it, but why use the oil. Put a nice finish coat on and let the cherry age.
I grew up in a home with cherry paneling--it was a gorgeous gorgeous color all by itself.
Edited 1/19/2009 5:02 pm ET by Gretchen
Hi Gretchen,
What do you mean by, "I've done it"? Here's my process: The wash coat is 50/50 Denatured Alcohol and wax-free shellac, applied to the raw wood, sealing the more pourous blotch-prone areas, allowing the oil to penetrate more evenly and leaving only the real beauty of the figure, grain and color to come through. It's working wonderfully. I have no intention of doing anything further to change the nature of the wood, simply looking to provide additional protection from damage.
Thank you for your input!
Cindy
Then I suggest non-poly varnish for continuing to get a more "in the wood" finish.Gretchen
oil based poly over oil based Danish should be fine. ;-)
water based poly, not so much.
and if ever in doubt, a coat of dewaxed shellac in between is the answer as the shellac goes over anything and anything goes over it.
Thank you, Samson!
Only disadvantage is the poly will make the trim look a bit more plastic, but it will improve the durability. I dont partricularily care for the look of poly, but it has it places.
Brad
My thoughts, as well. Perhaps it is best to leave well enough alone...
Only disadvantage is the poly will make the trim look a bit more plastic,..?
I use a wipe on Poly sometimes. Water or oil depending on what I have at hand. Works for me but I usually apply just a thin coating. Works great. I will say I never use a gloss Poly so maybe a different subject.
I do this all the time with wipe-on poly. I also do it with garnet shellac. (I like the look of the shellac better. YMMV.) Works just fine if you are sure that the oil is fully dried first. I like to wait a minimum of 2 days -- longer when the shop is cold like it is now.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
I'm going to suggest that you avoid the polyurethane. Use shellac instead. Because this a bedroom and not a table top, it won't receive all that much wear, and polyurethane's a pain to repair if it is damaged. Shellac's easy.
Hey, thanks very much. I appreciate your input and advice!
Cindy
Thank you all for your insight and advice. I believe we all have the same basic beliefs, that cherry will be best if left to it's own aging process and a varnish or shellac top coat would be the best solution.
This was my first posting to FWW and I will most certainly be back to query in the future.
Her are some pictures of the windows. The header casings are next.
Happy Saw-Dust!
Cindy
Cindy - Now that I see what you've got, I'd also recommend against varnish (I was thinking from your original post that we were talking bedroom furniture). The reason is that both polyurethane and varnish dry slowly, and because the wood is installed, it's not possible to take it to a dust-free area to let the finish cure. Shellac or spray laquer will dry almost instantly (at least if the laquer is nitrocellulose), so no dust issues. Shellac will be safer from the standpoint of the evaporated fumes (ethanol).
If you want a "satin" look from shellac, you can get 3 or 4 coats on, then rub it down with synthetic steel wool - I'd use the gray, "ultrafine" version, usually available at your local woodworking store or paint store. You can also add silica as a flatting agent, but I don't recommend this. Too much and it muddies the look of the grain.
Excellent! Thanks again...
BTW, those pictures are terrible!!! They don't do justice.
Another advantage of shellac is that it goes with almost anything.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 1/20/2009 9:28 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres
Just a follow-up. Here's some cherry/walnut trim finished with clear Watco and topped with garnet shellac. I think the oil adds a lot of warmth and depth to the finish.
View Image
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Mike,
The picture(s) didn't come through and I would love to see what your trim turned out like. This was my first stab at using rough cherry and I was uncertain exactly how it was going to look. I did a lot of research on finishing and spent hours and lots of $$ at the lumberyard. I used the "natural" Watco. Which, when applied over the wash-coat, really brought out the irridescence and depth of the wood. It's so beautiful!
So please, try to send your photo(s) again. I will try to get better pictures taken and sent by the weekend.
"The picture(s) didn't come through"
DOH! That's what I get for trying to take a shortcut. I pasted the pic from an old Breaktime thread and it looked OK on my screen, but apparently got lost in the translation.
Trying again:
View Image
BTW, I didn't use a wash coat. Just oil on the raw wood, and 3 coats of garnett.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Stunning! Beautiful! Congrats, Mike. Thanks for replying so quickly...
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