Replies

1. 
   dgreen | Jan 28, 2009 03:45am | #1

   What blade are you using and where are the burn marks located?

    

    

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   Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.
   ~ Denis Diderot

1. 
   edsshop | Jan 28, 2009 03:52am | #2

   Excellent points and I did not think to clarify that. My blade is a new Freud Premier Fusion 10/40 with a minimum of use. I just got it two weeks ago. My burn marks usually are from the bottom to top vs. say just the top however sometimes I can vary my feed rate and be fine but at other times, it doesn't seem to make any difference what I do. I have been building out of soft maple and white oak.
   Thank you
   Ed

1. 
   dgreen | Jan 28, 2009 04:05am | #3

   Try a different single purpose rip blade if you have access to one. There are an awful lot of reviews of that blade complaining of burning when ripping. 

    

   ................................................

   Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot

1. 
   edsshop | Jan 28, 2009 04:10am | #4

   Wow, that's good news and bad news. I will try the change before I decide to take my saw apart. Bad news is that Wood Magazine gave that blade it's highest review-part of which is the fact it creates 'less' burn. But I was about to buy a new blade for my miter saw so perhaps that blade would work best over there. I will continue to mess with it and appreciate the advice.
   Ed

1. 
   dgreen | Jan 28, 2009 04:38am | #6

   Bear in mind that Freud recommends no more than 1 1/2" stock thickness for ripping with that blade.

   Ripping: 3/8 to 1-1/2 inch 

    

   ................................................

   Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot

2. 
   edsshop | Jan 29, 2009 07:24am | #12

   Well I sure did not know that. I guess if this stuff were easy, everyone would be doing it huh. Your time has been very much appreciated. Thank you.

2. 
   Knotscott | Jan 29, 2009 12:35am | #9

   The Fusion has a very low side clearance, plus a dual side grind that offers a very polished edge.  That's the first I've heard about "low burn" with this type of blade, because they're a bit more finnicky about setup, wood type, moisture, thickness, feedrate, and blade height, and are actually more prone to burning than many types that leave a rougher cut.  The very characteristics that give the desired polished edge, can go from "burnished" to "burned" if all is not right....same is true of any blade with low side clearance.  That's not to say the blade is to blame, but it might be revealing issues that existed before but may not have noticed with a different blade.   

   It's always good to check your saw over, but I'd try a few other things too....Try the Fusion with higher blade height, the Fusion with different wood, different blade with the same wood, and different wood and different blade and see what you get.  It's better if the wood has been straightened and flattened prior to ripping. 

2. 
   reddexter | Jan 28, 2009 04:29am | #5

   Hi,
   I too have a Powermatic but a 63 and had problems and it took me a while to realize I would not get it aligned because the slots on the trunnion were not right so I took out a bolt completely and loosened the others too drop it slightly down and took a rat tail file and elongated each bolt slot one by one. After that life was good.
   Good luck

1. 
   edsshop | Jan 29, 2009 07:23am | #11

   That could be where I am heading. There is no substitute for tearing someting apart and seeing it for yourself. I appreciate you telling me and it confirms I am not totally losing my mind. As the saying goes: "misery loves company". Regards.

3. 
   jeffs | Jan 28, 2009 09:17am | #7

   I have a Powermatic 63 - it is over 20 yrs old and I think I have aligned the blade twice in that time. Once when I bought it and once after a cross country move. I use either an FS Tool or a Forrest blade and get minimal burning (if any) on many different hardwoods (domestic or exotic). So don't blame the saw itself- it is possible to align it and get good results.

   If you used to get no burn but now do perhaps it is a blade problem (new/different blade) or wobble (worn bearings?) or trunion alignment - this is not difficult to do- there have been many good articles in the various magazines to help.

    

    

1. 
   edsshop | Jan 29, 2009 07:27am | #13

   Thanks for the endorsement. I really don't blame the saw until I have done all I can. It was advised that I change to a different blade as the Freud I am using might be part of my problem. I am tickled with my saw and actually chalk anything up as good experience that will last me until the day I make my last cut.

4. 
   Samson | Jan 29, 2009 12:27am | #8

   I have a 64A:

   View Image

   I use it mostly for ripping and fitted with a 30T Forrest WW2 blade.  If I'm cutting cherry, and don't keep the stock moving through at an even pace, it can burn some.  Same with 8/4 maple.  But even then, the burn marks are almost always only on the fall off piece to the left of the blade. 

   I assume your fence is set up well, you're using feather boards and a splitter, and feeding the stock through smoothly.  So maybe it's your trunnions?  I'd try a different blade first, like others above have said. 

   I guess all my post is good for is to tell you that the 64A can do fine work.  I suppose there's always the chance you got a lemon with some casting or fabricating issue?

   I know I haven't been much help.  Sorry.

1. 
   edsshop | Jan 29, 2009 07:30am | #14

   I don't think I got a lemon. My faith in Powermatic is very high. I am going to follow some of the blade advice and see what that does. I've been very happy with my saw and the only shortcoming I have with it that again is not the saw's fault is I need to wire it up for 220 but to do so I need to have the circuit brought into my garage. I have to do so via a permit versus a 110 circuit which I could do myself without worry. It's just a matter of follow through for me as I know what I need to do. Thank you.

5. 
   boilerbay | Jan 29, 2009 03:08am | #10

   Ed,

   I had a 64 (not sure about the A) Artisan model -last century. Drove me nuts trying to get it into alignment. Turned out the casting screw slots were way off. Filed out one of the slots and finally zeroed it out.
   Worked great after that. Not from Tennessee, a Taiwan special.

   Boiler