Replies

1. 
   RW | Sep 26, 2002 02:28am | #1

   Actually, 2 ideas. Jesada tool (IMHO they make really good router bits) sells, as do other bit manufacturers, undersized plywood bits that take into account the difference in plywood thicknesses. They're on the web at http://www.jesada.com . Also, since I've used 1/4 luaun in drawer bottoms, if you want to cut things with a table saw, an 1/8" outside blade + the 1/16" chipper on a stacked dado set (perhaps with the addition of a thin shim, depending on your set) also does this. Now I know that the dado manufacturer specifically says not to run things in this setup but I've done it a lot and in my opinion, a slow feed rate cures what might otherwise ail ya.

2. 
   charlesm | Sep 26, 2002 08:58pm | #2

   One common solution is to use thicker plywood for the panels and rabbet the edge to produce a tongue to match the groove of a rail and stile cutter set. Some manufacturers offer (7/32" (5.5mm) groovers. We just introduced a tongue and groove set that is adjustable from 7/32" - 3/8" but it makes Shaker Style (no profile - square edge) doors. If that's what you are after let me know and I'll get you the item #.

   Charles M

   Freud, Inc.

1. 
   joker | Sep 26, 2002 11:58pm | #5

   What or is there a common solution when using a bit that is cutting a profile and the groove at the same time? Would using a thicker piece of plywool and cut a rabbet still be the acceptable solution? On my mass produced oak cabinets in my house, brads were used on the back side of the doors which hold the panels in place as well as push them to the front of the door eliminating the gap on the front, is this perhaps also a common practice?

1. 
   charlesm | Sep 27, 2002 02:56pm | #6

   You might find a router bit set that offers a profile and a 7/32" groover although I'm not aware of one off the top of my head. If I can think of a manufacturer that offers one I will let you know (even though it's not Freud). I believe a thicker panel with a rabbeted tongue is the most widely accepted approach. A panel that is too thin for the groove but is pushed forward to look okay from the front but leaves a gap on the back is unacceptable to me personally.

   Charles M

   Freud, Inc.

2. 
   dicktabbutt | Sep 27, 2002 06:25pm | #10

   Charles, I think you've hit on exactly what I'm looking for. Please provide the part number.

   Thanks,

   Dick

1. 
   charlesm | Sep 27, 2002 07:17pm | #11

   The item# is 99-036 and you can find info in our downloadable catalog:

   http://www.freudtools.com/woodworkers/catalogs/images/ROUTERBITS2.PDF

   And a quick google search turned up some online dealers with pricing:

   http://www.google.com/search?num=30&hl=en&lr=&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=freud+99-036

   Charles M

   Freud, Inc.

3. 
   JeffKurtz | Sep 26, 2002 09:17pm | #3

   Dick,

   I too prefer to use a dado blade for these cuts, since you'll notice - even on 1/4" plywood - that the actual size will vary by lot number and manufacturer.  The dado blade is will easily accommodate these differences and odd sizes.

   Jeff

4. 
   davamoore | Sep 26, 2002 11:11pm | #4

   Assuming you want the groove to be centered in the panel edges, If I'm using the router to create the groove in the frames and know that the panel is likely to be slightly shy of the nominal thickness, I'll step down to a smaller router bit.  In my router table, I'll set the distance between the center of the bit and the fence to be slightly less than the distance between the center of the piece and the fence.

   So in this situation, for example, let's say my frame pieces are 1/2" thick and my panel is nominally 1/4" thick.  I'd choose a 1/8" straight bit and set it so that the center of the bit is just a hair closer to the fence than 1/4".  Using a practice piece of wood the same thickness as the frame, I'd run it along the fence over the bit to make the initial cut.  Then I'd turn the piece around and run the opposite face against the fence.  This will make a groove somewhere in between 1/8" and the actual thickness of the plywood, centered in the inside edge of the frame (test) piece.  I'd test the fit... if it's too small, I'd nudge the fence just slightly away from the bit and run the piece twice through again.  Test the fit... repeat as necessary.

   Once you have a good fit, run all of your frame pieces twice through the router (once on each face), without changing the fence.  Check your fit occasionally (in case you're pushing really hard on the fence)... and there you are.  It only takes a few seconds/minutes to set up, and basing the width of the groove off the actual width of the plywood ensures that you get the fit you want.

   David

   Hmmm... the garden or the workshop today?
5. 
   UncleDunc | Sep 27, 2002 03:03pm | #7

   Still another technique is to use a 3/16" bit and run the router between two fences. Adjust the distance between the fences to get exactly the groove width you need.

6. 
   rslatm | Sep 27, 2002 03:12pm | #8

   And another way is to use wobble washers on a rip or combo blade which will allow you to get a 3/16" cut with an 1/8" blade. I'm not a big fan of wobble dado heads but this technique still has some useful applications.

   Rick

7. 
   KyleZ | Sep 27, 2002 05:38pm | #9

   Dick,

   I just bought a Whiteside rail/stile set from Routerbits.com.  Whiteside sells bits that make a 7/32" groove.  The more popular profiles have a specific bit for to make the smaller groove.  Some profiles, including the one that I purchased, require a conversion kit.  I bought the conversion kit, and it worked great.  There was no slop in the panel whatsoever.  The conversion kit did cost about $40.  If you make enough doors with a plywood panel, it is worth it.

   By the way, I have to give props to Routerbits.com.  Their sight was easy to pick out the profile I needed, and my bits arrived in two to three days.  You can't beat that.  The usual nonaffiliation disclaimers apply.

8. 
   Glendo | Sep 30, 2002 05:10am | #12

   Unless your going to do alot it, two passes with a standard 1/8' blade will work.

   Glendo.