Replies

1. 
   nikkiwood | May 31, 2004 10:38pm | #1

   It depends.

   Assuming you're talking about edging that is 1/8 to 1/4'', you basically have two choices.

   You could just glue and nail it on, then putty up the holes. A pin nailer (with either a headless pin, or a "slight" head) will give you the smallest holes.

   Or you can skip the nails and just use glue -- as long as you come up with a way to clamp the edging. You could use a caul, as you suggest -- applying a sufficient number of clamps to get a tight fit (edging to carcase).

   Or, you can use tape. Push the edging down, and tightly wrap pieces of masking tape across it every six inches or so. This technique works well, especially with 1/8" edging.

1. 
   darbywoods | Jun 01, 2004 11:08pm | #5

   depending on the item. I have used contact cement on the piece with an extra 1/8 on each side and then routed flush.

   David

   http://www.darbynwoods.com

2. 
   CStanford | Jun 01, 2004 02:02am | #2

   There are two or three styles of clamps designed specifically for gluing edging to plywood.  Take a look in a Woodcraft catalog.  You're right, it is nice if the solid wood edging has a slight bow to it when you glue it down - it keeps it tight on the ends - much like a sprung joint in a panel glue-up.  The slight hollow is easy to achieve with a hand plane and doable with a power jointer but the chances of having your fingers shortened goes up a bit. 

3. 
   BenM | Jun 01, 2004 02:48pm | #3

   FWW had an article on 6 different ways to edge band plywood.  Issue #156 (May/June 2002).

4. 
   RickL | Jun 01, 2004 03:41pm | #4

   A few pieces of tape to hold the edging on and use the other plywood panel as a caul and you can glue two bands on at the same time. Just uses your regular bar clamps.

5. 
   RickL | Jun 02, 2004 01:47am | #6

   Read his first post over. As I understand it he wants a spring joint for the gluing caul. That way he can use one clamp in the middle of the caul for gluing the edging on instead of using a bunch of clamps.

1. 
   Alan | Jun 02, 2004 02:31am | #7

   Oops.

2. 
   sharp | Jun 02, 2004 08:36am | #9

   thanks for reading the second bit of the post.

   thanks for the input gents.

1. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 02, 2004 08:42am | #10

   OOPS for me too............. Sorry. Too eager, I guess, to jump at what seemed like an easy question.

6. 
   Dave10 | Jun 02, 2004 04:16am | #8

   Set the out-feed table of the jointer a bit lower than the top cutting

   arc of the jointer knives. This will give you the "spring". I don't know

   what will happen when the stock is run through the planer to dimension it. Usallly , the planer follows the conture.

   As a postscript, I am assuming that your constructing a substantial edge,

   eg 3/4", and not veneer. Good luck.

7. 
   Lilshaver | Jun 02, 2004 07:32pm | #11

   If you want a curved caul, first use the easy method:

   easy..... Sort through your lumber supply and find a stick that is the right length, thickness and isn't too precious. Sight it, it will probably have a slight curve in at least one direction. You now have a caul. The concave side goes toward the edge to be glued.

   not so easy method..... You've sorted through your lumber and amazingly enough every stick is straight as an arrow! Count yourself blessed. Now, pick a piece and run only the center 10 inches or so through the jointer by dropping in onto the knives...lift it off when the 10 inches is cut. Do this again but increase the 10 inches to 16 or 20...whatever.... This is a trial and error sort of process and you will have to simply do it a few times to get the feel for it. Be careful.....keep your fingers out of harms way. Better to use a handplane. Better yet, trade one of your perfectly straight boards to a pal for one of her/his not-so-straight ones.