Replies

1. 
   peakbagger | Sep 03, 2004 03:23am | #1

   I've use a downward spiral, but that's what I got on a clearance table. I take passes at about 1/8 inch or so.

   To set the depth, use the rod and guage on the router. The turret is underneath this part to let you change by a fixed amount. Loosen the rod with the wingnut and set for the depth you need using the plunge lock. Make sure the rod is seated on the turret and tighten it up. Then raise the bit by unlocking the plung lock. When you make passes, keep lowering it until the rod hits the turret.

   On my router, the wingnut for the rod keep loosening, so keep an eye on it.

   Good luck,

   Jim

2. 
   BarryR | Sep 03, 2004 04:18am | #2

   I use an solid carbide upcut spiral bit in my plunge router.  I make the mortise in multiple passes.  I generally limit the depth of each pass to about the diameter of the bit, so using a 1/4" bit, I make each pass 1/4" deeper than the last.  I plunge a full depth hole in each end of the mortise, then rout out the waste between the holes.  That makes it easy to do the mortise without any stop blocks or templates.  I use two edge guides to straddle the workpiece if I'm doing legs or something similar.  Look here for some pics.  http://www.woodmangler.com/Nightstands/nightstands.html

1. 
   wendy1 | Sep 04, 2004 03:09am | #4

   HI,

   Thanks guys for the info.  After experimenting with my router I have discovered that the bit I have isn't long enough to cut a 1  5/16th of an inch deep moritise. My upward spiral bit measures... total length = 2 1/4 inches  Cutting length = 3/4   Shank diameter= 1/4 inch 

   The mortises I'm cutting are 1/2 inch wide and 1  5/16th  inch deep. Would I be better off using a straight cutting bit (5/16th inch dia.) or a 1/4 inch diameter upward spiral bit?  I was planning on making a plunge cut the full depth of the mortise on both ends and then removing the waste inbetween. Is that safe to do with a straight bit. I know the spiral bit can do the job but I'm not so sure about a using a straight cutting bit.

   I was just looking at some of the router bits available from LeeValley. I don't think you can buy a 1/4 inch shank bit that will cut a 1  5/16 depth mortise.  What router bit should I buy to make these mortises?

   Wendy

   Edited 9/3/2004 8:21 pm ET by wendy1

1. 
   BarryR | Sep 04, 2004 04:34am | #6

   Most straight bits aren't made for pluge cutting.  If you decide to go with one, make sure it's got an extra cutter in the center for that purpose.

2. 
   BG | Sep 04, 2004 12:38pm | #7

   Wendy1,

   I believe you can get 1 5/16" deep with a 2 1/4" sprial bit to cut your mortices..remember your only cutting 1/4" at a time...which is greatly less than the 3/4" limit...so the issue is the reach of the bit, not cutting.

   If you can't reach the desired depth, drill down into both ends with a regular bit the required depth and hog out the wood in between with a chisel.  

1. 
   wendy1 | Sep 04, 2004 09:02pm | #8

   Hi guys,

   Thanks again for the tips. I've still got a lot of practice to do before I actually start cutting moritces for the legs on the workbench I'm building.  Can't afford to make too  mistakes due to the high cost of lumber.

   Yup,  it's the REACH that's the problem.   I am now learning how to cut mortices by hand using a bench chisel and mallet.  Sure is a lot quieter.  Think I'll buy a spiral bit with a 1/2 inch shank, 1/2 inch diameter (width of the mortice) and a longer shaft.

   Would you leave the ends of the mortice round? or bevel the edge of the matching tenon  to fit the mortice? I suppose you could also just excavate the moritice... square up the ends using a bench chisel and mallet. Which is less time consuming. I have yet to attempt to cut tenons on the table saw. I want to master making mortices first. LOL

   Wendy

1. 
   BG | Sep 04, 2004 10:56pm | #9

   Wendy,

   It seems only right that you cut mortices on a workbench by hand...or at least some of the mortice...

   My personal opinion is a 1/2" up or down sprial bit will not see to much use....after all a half inch mortice is pretty big ...the 1/4" is used a lot...

   Mangler posted a nice jig for cutting mortices.  I use a bench hook in conjunction with  the front vise of the workbench and a couple of pieces of ply with finish nails to replecate his nice jig. 

2. 
   BarryR | Sep 05, 2004 12:05am | #10

   Wendy, I would love to take credit for Routerman's jig, but I'm not quite that talented.  But I really appreciate the thought.

3. 
   wendy1 | Sep 05, 2004 06:12pm | #11

   Good morning,

   Routerman's jig is very impressive! Wow 

   I've been busy searching the Lee Valley website this morning. They have quite an interesting selection. So much to choose from.   

   Would a bevel edge chisel be able to cut mortises? They are supposed to be good for cutting dovetails but I'm not sure they are strong enough to handle deep mortises. They would have to withstand more pounding.  I know bevel chisels are perhaps better for getting into tight places, which makes them good for chiseling out dovetails.

   Is their such a thing as an all purpose chisel? Or am I better off purchasing a few mortise chisels and a few bevel edged chisels?  I saw a lovely Hirsch Mortise chisel on the Lee Valley website.  Designed for deep moritises. $39.00 3/8"  (Canadian funds)  The Bevel Edged chisels were much less expensive.  Lee Valley bevel edge .. $12.75  (3/8")   Marples Blue chip bevel edged chisels ... $14.00  (3/8")  The Hirsch Firmer chisel was selling for  $20.75 I think that's an all purpose chisel.

   So much to choose from. I don't want to spend a fortune on chisels but I want a chisel that will hold a sharp edge for a long time without having to resharpen it every other time I go to use it.  Am I better off purchasing them as a set or buying them individually. I was thinking of purchasing a 3/8" and a 3/4 inch chisel.  What sizes would you recommend?

   That's all the questions for now. LOL

   Wendy

4. 
   BarryR | Sep 05, 2004 08:09pm | #12

   I think if you're serious about making mortises with a chisel you should buy mortise chisels.  Buy them as you need them.  I'd start with a 1/4".  I've done this with a regular bevel chisel & I'm just not comfortable prying out the chips with it - feels like it's going to snap off.

5. 
   BG | Sep 05, 2004 09:04pm | #13

   Wendy1,

   I've bought a bunch of chisels used from various tag sale type places, including 3-4 firmer chisels that sold for about $3-$8 dollars....all are terrific chisels..and the best names in their day.  I have not found any mortice chisels that I was willing to pay the asking price.  The firmers are great for morticing.   

   I find sets of chisels are pretty but not so useful. The sizes I use most 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and for paring 3/4 and 1 1/4.  Japanese are the most durable relative to not having to sharpen often...and I use them for dovetails.  Morticing I'm not as concerned with sharpness... 

   Edited 9/5/2004 2:09 pm ET by BG

3. 
   Routerman | Sep 03, 2004 05:59am | #3

   Some pix and jig ideas at the mortice link.

   Would spend some time at the library or Taunton's index. Must be many tips, pix and approaches. Would get Gary Rogowski's joinery book at a minimum.

4. 
   fredsmart48 | Sep 04, 2004 03:39am | #5

   What I do is buy the longest bit I can in the diameter I need for the width of the mortise. I also buy it in ½ shank not ¼ if I can. Now the only reason for multiple pass is to get to the depth needed.

   You can buy a bit ½ diameter shank and 2 ½ long cutting depth. Even though it is straight cutter.  That is what I would by.

   Next set up jig so you don’t have to keep measuring so each and every mortise turns out the same.