Replies

1. 
   douglas2cats | Dec 16, 2004 07:51pm | #1

   You might want to experiment with some rubbing compound sold for automotive paint finishes. Never tried getting a high gloss finish with it. I've only ever bought one can and it works real well for getting an even satin sheen. I'm pretty sure it's made in finer grits (not sure if that's the right terminology for this stuff) than what I bought. One of those would probably get the high gloss you're after. I suspect it might be a little less messy than using pumice/rottenstone, but since I've never used that, it's just an assumption.

2. 
   BillLindau | Dec 17, 2004 12:47am | #2

   Cass, if I was shooting for a high gloss finish and didn't want the plastic look of straight poly, I would mix high gloss poly with pure tung oil and use as a wipe on finish, each coat wiped until a clean cloth shows no sign of oil. It would take about 5 coats to start getting a the glossy sheen, rubbing each coat out with 0000 steel wool, lightly before applying the next. Use the rottenstone with the last coat and then wax. Since you've already waxed you might want to just keep applying coats of wax as any subsequent oil finishes will have trouble adhering to the wax. Several coats of wax and allot of buffing will give you a high gloss. Bill

3. 
   Rich14 | Dec 17, 2004 09:25am | #3

   Cass,

   Using a "Tung Oil" finish will not result in a very high gloss final appearance. But it depends on what you mean by that. Oil finishes are not meant to be rubbed out. They are very thin and there is very little build of any finish material on the surface to tolerate any rubbing.

   That said, finishes such as Waterlox and almost all other so-called Tung Oil products are mixtures of some vegetable oil (not neceassarily tung, no matter what the label says but maybe tung, maybe just linseed or a combination of the two) and a varnish. If anything, the varnish will build as a very thin coat with repeated applications. Essentially, you're using it as a wiping varnish with the oil component acting as a lubricant to the wiping process because after the first or second coat, the wood has been sealed and will not accept any more oil penetration.

   The instructions for all such products advise wiping the finish on, letting it stay for some period, keeping it wet, then wiping all residual off and letting it cure for at least a few days. That's apparently where you are now.

   There are two things you can do to give an oil/varnish finish a high gloss. They both are a variant of french polishing techniques. The first is to apply the last several coats of a 4-5 coat process by not wiping the surface as dry as possible, but by wiping with a just barely finish-dampened, packed pad as though you are french polishing. It takes a little practice, but it is possible to leave a microscopically thin, gleamning trail of varnish that looks wet, but actually feels almost dry to the touch and will cure without losing much, if any of that glistening look. The oil provides the lubrication to achieve the effect. The final surface will be quite pretty and almost rival a polished shellac or lacquer finish.

   But be aware that, like all oil/varnish finishes it will not be very durable. If the object is not handled much, or not subjected to much use, the finish will last for decades. I've finished occasional tables like this which look good after 20 years. They get occasional dusting, hold lamps and knick-knacks, but that's all.

   On the other hand, The same finish failed on the arms of a teak rocking chair after 3 months. Just the "abrasion" of forearms resting on the chair's arms was too much for the finish.

   A second method that will give a beautiful, durable, hard, alcohol-resisitant finish that is high gloss applied as instructed or can be rubbed out with the finest polishing methods (rottenstone or auto body polish) is Behlen's Qualasole. Qualasole is a padding lacquer that is a proprietary mix of true nitrocellulose solids, linseed oil, resin and several different alcohols, acetates and esters. It is also applied in a french polishing manner. It's one of the best-kept secrets in the finishing world.

   Let your Waterlox finish cure for at least 10 days to 2 weeks. Then steel wool it with 0000 to an even, satin sheen and apply Qualasole as instructed on the label. You must never stop the pad from moving. Back and forth, figure eights, etc. You use the pad very dry. It should feel cool to the touch, but never wet. I've done french polishing for more than 30 years, using shellac and pumice. I've also used Qualosole for about the last 15 years. While I'm proud of my french polishing, I can't tell the difference between the 2 and Qualosole can be applied in 1/10th the time.

   Rich

4. 
   Paul_Snyder | Dec 17, 2004 09:07pm | #4

   Waterlox Gloss is a good choice for a rubbed finish Cass. Given a couple weeks to cure (Waterlox recommends 5-7 days), it develops a hard surface that's very good for the rubbing process.

   In FWW issue #168 (Feb 2004), David Sorg had a good article on a highly polished varnish finish that describes the process in detail. Not too long ago, he answered some questions on the forum here about rubbing out varnish;

   http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-knots&msg=20055.1

   http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-knots&msg=20002.1

   Check out the article in issue #168; it will guide you through the process step-by-step.

   Paul S
   Website

1. 
   BG | Dec 19, 2004 03:34am | #5

   Cass,

   Paul's links tell it all.  I'd just add/reinforce one little detail about Waterlox.  When you get it as smooth as you want, or if you screw up, just put some Waterlox in the palm of your hand and give it another coat...and start rubbing out at the much higher grit level...relax, your almost there.. 

   An old timer once shared with me he had to repeat the shellac application about 18 times before he got it right..