I wish to ask if someone has made a jig to use a hand planer to make a slope in a plank (against the grain) . I have to make 5 inches long slopes on both the sides of a plank ( 8″ x ¾” ) . I think using a hand planer is the best option, but can I make a jig to make the task easy. Has anybody done this kind of job?
A jig would be unnecessary. Mark out the slope, and then plane to the line. Once you've done a few, it will be second nature.
Are you putting the slopes on the ends or running down the long edges of the board? What is the depth of the taper over the 5" run?
A drawing would help.
The first article has an illustration that explains how to bevel a drawer bottom with regular handplanes. The second article explains how to make a molding plane.
No disrespect to the OP intended, but you have to love posts that leave you scratching your head about what exactly they are trying to accomplish. Drawings in the original post can be so much more helpful and generate more and better responses.
In this case I'm going to assume, right or wrong, but hey there's no picture, that the statement "against the grain" really means across the grain.
Since planes by their very nature don't lend themselves to jig use, outside of maybe shooting boards, but they are usually restricted to use on boards narrower than the plane blade width, I agree with John_C2 just scribe the desired cut line and start planning at the edge of the board taking 3-4 short passes and gradually increasing the length of the stroke. I would make a template of the profile you want out of hardboard or 1/4" ply that you can use as a gauge to determine your progress. I would estimate with a sharp plane this task could be done in 15 minutes or so.
I would add that a decent bandsaw would make short work of this and leave just clean up duties to the plane.
Hard to know what you are trying to accomplish. If you need to slope the ends, the scribe and plane to line method is easiest (look up how to make a scarf joint). You can use the side of your plane to do a quick check for high/low spots.
If you need to slope 5” of the 8” long side, you may consider using a dovetail saw (or any other fine toothed saw) to define the ends of the sloped section to avoid accidentally removing a portion you don’t wish to remove. In that case, a chisel may work best and you could set up a jig to clamp around the board and help guide you to the correct angle and depth.