Replies

1. 
   musick | May 04, 2005 08:37pm | #1

   I'm assuming it's one of Delta's portable planers.  If so this is a common problem as it is with all portable planers regardles of brand.  Basically the surface of the planer table and board has more friction than the drive rollers have with the wood, thus the board stops and the rollers just spin.  I don't have any fool proof solutions.  Raising the cutting height sometimes works.  Apply a lubricant like wax, powder, etc. to the table sometimes works and sometimes you just have to give the wood a slight continuous push as it goes through to keep it moving.

   If this insn't your problem then you may have a bigger problem.  One possibility is the drive linkage (belt, gear, etc) has broke somewhere and the rollers are no longer being powered.

    

   Good luck!

1. 
   sdipp | May 04, 2005 08:44pm | #2

   Thanks Doug. If I push the piece moves through. I think you're on the right path thanks for info. I am using much larger pieces than normal for this job so it makes sense. I will try lubing all surfaces to try and solve the problem.

    

   steve

2. 
   user-343246 | May 04, 2005 09:27pm | #3

   I had the exact same problem with my delta planer.  The solution is two-fold.  First, the machine needs to be hooked up to a dust collector, otherwise the neoprene rollers getting clogged with chips.  Second, and the non-intuitive solution, is to reduce the friction of the planer bed.  The stuff I use is called "Lami-Lube", it is a spray lubricant (it's only $5 a can).  Just spray it on the bed and away you go!  It works great, but don't go breathing it in too much.  The can says it is known to cause cancer in the state of California (I guess it's safe to use in the other 49 states).   You could use paste wax, but this stuff is much easier to use on the fly.

   -Matt

    

1. 
   sdipp | May 04, 2005 09:32pm | #4

   Thanks again. I have tons of spray lubricants I just didn't make the connection. I assumed the worse. My planer is hooked up to a 2hp dust collector. I have not used such large boards before and now it makes sense.

    

   steve

1. 
   jptenberg | May 05, 2005 02:55am | #6

   Steve--

   I had the same problem w/ my delta portable (Now I have a real planer)  If you have the machine on a bench, you should attach it.  Then take a piece of MDF and cut it to make new outfeed tables.  Lamineat the top w/ something slippery--formica, ur that UHMV plastic stuff-- shim up both sides with small pieces of MDF and screw the whole thing to the benchtop on both sides of the machine.

   This is a slightly more permanett setup, but you could fool around a little, and come up w/ some more portable version that breaks down.

   Also, you should find a way to lock the depth rod in place if you're using a planer that doesn't have a column lock.

   Good luck--

   PeterPeter

   jpswoodworking.com

2. 
   RonInOttawa | May 06, 2005 05:12pm | #13

   "The can says it is known to cause cancer in the state of California (I guess it's safe to use in the other 49 states)."Everything you can breathe, ingest, wear or use causes cancer in California. Apparently, they're all doomed!Ron

1. 
   MarkRD | May 06, 2005 06:53pm | #14

   California causes cancer?Mark

   Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.

3. 
   PaDutchman | May 05, 2005 02:51am | #5

   Steve;

         I agree with all the above responses. Don't forget to raise the rollers as far above the table as possible and check them out. They easily get "fouled" with resins and chips from the wood. I clean mine every  so often and they "pull" the wood through without problems. Also, if your blades are dull, they'll cause the rollers to have trouble "pulling" the wood through.

   Good luck

   Scott

        

4. 
   forestgirl | May 05, 2005 07:49pm | #7

   Seems like this problem is usually due to dirty rollers.  I used to use soapy water and a sponge/scrubber to clean mine, they I discovered "painter's wipes" -- hand wipes sold at Lowe's.  Gentle enough not to harm the polyurethane roller, but strong enough to get stuff off, and not as messy as soap and water.  The rollers seem to need cleaning pretty often!

   A waxed bed is important too, but always check the rollers.  Unplug the machine, clean the roller part facing the bed, plug it in and quickly flip the switch, unplug and clean the (hopefully) new part facing the bed.  Be safe.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   sdipp | May 05, 2005 08:44pm | #8

   Thanks to all for the help. This is the first time I have used this forum. I used all the suggestions last night and it worked fine. thanks again!!

    

   steve

1. 
   LostOne0069 | May 05, 2005 08:55pm | #9

   It's also possible that your rollers have somehow gotten mis-adjusted to the cutting head, meaning that they're not pushing down on the wood hard enough to keep the cutting head from stopping the wood as it passes through the machine. I know my Jet planer has a section in the manual for adjusting this. Good luck with it!Donald

5. 
   jackiechan | May 06, 2005 02:24am | #10

   Steve,

   All of the previous recommendations for cleaning the infeed and outfeed rollers, as well as waxing the bed, are right on the money.  Doing the cleaning and waxing will very often correct a bad feeding problem. 

   There are a few things that you need to be attentive of.  First, when cleaning the rollers, your hands will be very close to the planer's blades.  It is very easy to accidently brush up against one and give yourself a nasty slice.  Look up into the machine as you clean the rollers so that you can steer clear of the blades.  Another good idea is to have a light shining into the planer as you work.  After the rollers are clean, use a piece of a very fine Scotchbrite pad, and brush the rollers side to side.  This will help to remove any glazing that may have occurred when the rollers slipped on the wood being fed through.  Dust the rollers and beds off after the Scotchbrite, it tends to leave a little grit behind.

   When you wax the beds, be sure to use a wax without any petroleum/silicone products.  It may make the wood slide through easily, but it will also make the wood very hard to apply a finish to.

   If you have any questions, please feel free to ask!

   Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

1. 
   zorrosdens | May 06, 2005 05:50am | #11

   I have used a can of Minwax Finishing Wax for years and I spray laquers and I have had no finishing problems of ANY kind with it.  It is handy and useful for many other surface "lubing" situations; router bases love it, tablesaw tops, any handplanes or anything that glides over on something else....the uses are almost limitless once you try it on something.......also the can will last seemingly forever.  You can just keep a dedicated rag in the can with no problem, and even throw a dovetail shaped handle screwed to the lid for convenience and it looks cool if you use a nice hardwood.  It won't take much to make everything slide like butter and it doesn't take much once you do a good first time hit.  ~Z~

   Edited 5/5/2005 11:18 pm ET by zorro

2. 
   forestgirl | May 06, 2005 08:56am | #12

   "Look up into the machine as you clean the rollers...."  That's one nice thing about the chromed bed on the Delta planer (560) -- it's a mirror!  Shows the rollers and cutterhead nicely.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)