Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Mar 28, 2007 04:24pm | #1

   Almost everyone buys 3/4 inch pipe clamps, but I have always used 1/2" ones and find that they are adequate as long as you prepare your glue ups so that only moderate pressure is required, which mostly means that the fit between the edges is tight so that high pressure isn't needed to close up the joint.

   If you are doing large heavy work, thick hardwood table tops for instance, then you will need the larger clamps, but for most cabinetwork the smaller clamps are adequate and easier to handle.

   John White

   P.S. I just noticed that you intended this question for Gary R., I'll post it in his section for a second, and probably wiser, opinion.

1. 
   Joe Sullivan | Mar 29, 2007 02:17am | #3

   John:Appropos of pipe clamps, there is an active Knots thread on your workbench design. I asked, and was told by aomwone who certainly seems to know, that the pipes you used for the beam support and face vice were 1/2, not 3/4. I don't mean to question the person who told me that -- who was very generous with time and advice, but as this clamp thread has come up over here, I just thought I'd confirm it with you. Joe

1. 
   JohnWW | Mar 29, 2007 03:25pm | #4

   The pipes on the bench were all 1/2 inch. and they were quite adequate.

   John W.

1. 
   Joe Sullivan | Mar 29, 2007 03:31pm | #5

   Thanks, John.

   Joe

2. 
   user-148830 | Mar 28, 2007 06:36pm | #2

   Hi there,
   Well I have to say that I have always used 3/4" pipe and even that will bend in some clamping situations. Who knows, maybe 1/2" will be enough if you're building smaller projects. But you never know what kind of clamping you may run into so I found that the bigger pipe was better. I also found that several short sections of 3/4" pipe, threaded on both ends, allowed me to have short clamps or longer ones, if I needed, with two pipes screwed together with a union. Just make sure in any case that the pipe you buy is the right diameter. Take a pipe clamp fixture with you and check to make sure that it doesn't slip slide on the pipe or not grab the pipe when under pressure. Good luck. Gary

3. 
   cowtown | Apr 05, 2007 10:20am | #6

   I guess 1/2" clamps are OK until you encounter the situation where you need more heft. I watch the 3/4" pipes flex on a lot of my work. Maybe I is just too coarse or inexperienced to appreciate the finesse of the 1/2" pipe.
   As the saying goes, you can never have enuf clamps, and when I reach for a clamp, I want it to do what it's supposed to with room to spare, not get pushed to the max and flex,thus putting the heads out of square, as 1/2" pipe clamps are famous for. 3/4" clamps will also flex, but not as much.

   Besides, as 3/4" clamps of good smooth-screwing quality by reputable mfgrs are commonly available on sale cheaper than 1/2" clamps of the same mfg, why not just go there right off.

   I do keep a cuppla 1/2" pipe clamps in the truck for emergencies though, not only cause they are lighter, but also because I don't want em in the shop. - If I need a different of pipe, I don't want to have to sort by diameter as well as length.

   Another point of interest, is if you look at some of the reversible Pony type clamps (ie" push AND pull) or the supersize "Mastadon" deep throat type clamps, why they don't seem to be stocked in 1/2" sizes, at least not in the stores I frequent, ergo, if yer clamp stock expands, yer gonna be into 3/4" sizes anyway. Why not start off there?

   BTW, if yer tempted to "economize" and buy from the lowest price seller, by all means check the smoothness of the thread operation. Some of the really inexpensive clamps in my experience are notable for the lack of smoothness in tightening, the fastening of the handle to the screw, and the general lack of smoothness on the faces of the clamp. Nothing more frustration than knowing you saved two bucks on the clamp when the handle falls off when yer struggling to tighten the sucker.....

   At least that's my two bits.

   Eric

1. 
   Joe Sullivan | Apr 07, 2007 05:32pm | #7

   On the ther hand, if you really need that much heft, why not just invest in the Jorgensen 76 series?  The bars they use wil not deflect even with vast pressure.  I have used them in repair and carpentry work to pull things back to plumb, and to bend wood.

   Joe

1. 
   cowtown | Apr 11, 2007 10:08am | #8

   I cannot for the life of me find what you mean by the "76" series of jorgenson clamps. Did you perhaps mean the 72 series with that honking curvilinear big beam on it? The one with the max reach of 5' or so? I dunno if you did, but methinks thats maybe what you meant. OK, so they don't deflect much over the 5' or maybe even 6' max length they come in. I ain't exactly clamp deprived, and would prefer, like you the heavier and more stable shaft, as opposed to the 1/2" pipe clamps that originated this thread. What happens when you need a good 12' or, heaven forbid, an even longer clamp. No bessey, no offshore, or nothing else that I'm aware of even comes even close to economically satisfying that requirement than 3/4 pipe clamps. I note that a 5' 72 series is gonna cost me 40 bucks, but a set of 2/4" pipe clamp heads costs me 15 bucks or so, and that leaves me 25 bucks for pipe, which costs me about a buck a foot at the borg, leaving me; FOR THE SAME COST, the potential of a 25' pipe clamp. Now, if you multiply that by the three or 4 clamps a typical assembly might require, the economics perspecitify quite clearly. Moreover, if you multiply the economics on the numbers of clamps you might require to say, laminate a curved stair tread of 20' length, where you may require a clamp every six inches (ie 40 clamps), my 3/4" clamp investment is 40x15=600 bucks cdn; maybe 450-500 us$ , plus 40 pcs x 2'ea x 1$-80 bucks, so I's just shy of 700 buckscdn, 600 us$ in clamps,not a tawdry sum, but they has long ago paid for themselves on other projects. The solution you propose would ramp that investment up a whole lot, and also be lacking in future application, I'll admit I don't know what yer payin per clamp, so I could be wrong. But it would likely make the whole assembly too heavy to lift or move around the shop, thus that 20' assembly of the clamps you suggest would not only hurt my butt (ie wallet), but hurt my back as I tried to move it, and also tie up my shop for the time it took for the glue to cure. (and you ain't gonna let a 20' lamination cure for just the 30 minutes, are ya now?)As an expert, you well know what the trade off in doing massive glue-ups, you not only have to be able to fabricate them with sufficient pressure, but you gotta be simply able to set em aside to do other things while the glue cures. The "pressure applied vs weight" has to be balanced with the cost and risk. Ignore either apect and yer possibly gonna be burdened financially, and the downside is gonna make any savings in clamps look like a drop in the bucket. Particularly if you go for 1/2" pipe clamps. eh?And I ain't figured out how to fit the "mastadon" type clamps on any other profile other than the 3/4" pipe. Maybe You got a suggestion for that.Oh, I got my quick grip clamps, my besseys, all them other clampitational devices (hey, even got one that clamps exterior corners on melamine cabinets, and I'd be even so bold to suggest that my antique c-clamp collection has got clamps most folks never even dreamed about, but when push comes to shove, it's always 3/4" pipe clamps that exhibit the flexibility to solve bigger problems economically. As I said before, why look elsewhere.What other things has I used my 3/4" pipe clamps for that other clamps ain't been able to do? span a 24' garage and align the walls so that the trusses could be secured accurately. Lift a 100# etched glass sign so that I could fasten it to a wall in a workmanlike fashion (ie plumb and level)Not that there ain't violin clamps, and a million other manifestations of light weight clamps out there. But to start off with, 3/4" pipe clamps are not only economical, but have at least an order of magnitude of functionality and versatility well in excess of any other clamp I've ever encountered. Scope of application is limited to length of pipe only. I ain't met the feller who could ascribe that characteristic to any other common form of wooddorkers clamp yet. Capable of exerting light pressure, as well as heavy pressure, economical, commonly available, what more could a person ask for. 1/2" pipe clamps as a starter point is probably NOT, at least to my pea-brain, where to point the neophyte. But that's my opinion. Hey, thanks for the suggestion, it was interesting, if nothing else.The scarey thing is that I is left to wondering if the adjustable clamp co is one of them companies which is now owned by Tupperware. Eric

1. 
   Joe Sullivan | Apr 11, 2007 04:26pm | #9

   I had brain lock, Eric -- not that unusual, I fear.  I did mean Jorgensen 72 series, with the 7,000 lb load limit and very little deflection.  The 4,000 series is also very strong and stable.

   I have a small stable of 72s in medium and longer lengths that I use for special purposes where very high pressure is needed -- especially in carpentry. 

   Your argumets about the economics are obviously correct, as are your points about extra length.

   Joe

1. 
   cowtown | Apr 18, 2007 09:18am | #10

   Joe,thanks for yer reply.. sometimes I know I get a tad "direct" or "overly blunt" in my comments, and sometimes folks don't react kindly to my directness( including some of the FWW eds of years gone by) . And I'll tell you that I ain't always right, and I'll freely admit that I know that. I particularly appreciate yer response to my post for a number of reasons... 1. being a a response
   2. being "gentile" in not floggin me for my stance (In this case) on 3/4" pipe clamp basic economics, but also 3. for having the cajones for at least exhibiting some appreciation of another perspective to a topic. More power to ya big fella. EricEric