Replies

1. 
   kreuzie | May 23, 2009 01:47am | #1

   What kind of pipe are you using? Galvanized pipe tends to slip, whereas black pipe (used for natural gas) seems to hold a lot better.

   kreuzie

1. 
   mc2 | May 23, 2009 05:18pm | #6

   i'm using galvanized for all my clamps. i may try to switch just this one out and see what happens. appreciate the reply.

1. 
   HowardAcheson | May 23, 2009 06:48pm | #7

   >> i'm using galvanized for all my clamps.Not a good idea. Galvanizing is a coating applied to the iron. When the grippers attempt to tighten they cut into the galvanizing and the coats peels off.It's best to standard black iron pipe for pipe clamps.Howie.........

1. 
   mc2 | May 23, 2009 10:01pm | #9

   thanks for everybody's help. i'll switch the bad one out to black pipe. do you have problems withit rusting? that's probably why i went to galvanized in the first place.

1. 
   brownman | May 24, 2009 07:51am | #10

   My black pipes have never rusted and I've had them for many many years, but then again I live in So. Cal where it's dry most all the time. Don't be embarrassed for using galvanized pipe for your clamps. I've seen seasoned cabinet makers make the same mistake. Another thing you should know when using black pipe is that if you allow the pipe to touch your wood during glue up it can leave a black stain that can be difficult to get out. So what I have done to always be sure that my pipe never touches my glue up was to get a length of 1" PVC pipe and cut it into one or two inch sections. Then cut them length wise on one side only, on the bandsaw. That way you can pry them slightly apart with the blade of a screw driver and slide two or more of them on each pipe as spacers to keep the pipe up slightly(the wall thickness of the PVC) off the wood. This works very well. Happy clamping!

2. 
   mc2 | May 24, 2009 11:16pm | #12

   thanks for the info. i was concerned about stains on certain woods from contact with the black bar. i thought i would use waxed paper along the bar length or maybe even some of that press-n-seal wrap. clamp on!

3. 
   boilerbay | May 25, 2009 04:33pm | #15

   I have been using black for 20-30 years - No Rust. Two tricks from others back then: PVC couplers collars for standoffs and all my pipes have been tung oiled. Never had a stain or slippage.

4. 
   [email protected] | May 24, 2009 09:24pm | #11

   I started using an epoxy coated pipe made for direct bury gas lines a few years back, after getting a reaction between the iron pipe, and some oak, in presence of the moisture from the glue. The epoxy coated pipe costs more than the black iron. But, the problem with staining high tannin woods like oak is eliminated. And, the new oak to replace the table top, ruined with the stains, cost more than the epoxy pipe.

   The galvanized coating is an alloy of lead and zinc. Both of which are very soft metals. That is why pipe clamps move when used on galvanized pipe. The epoxy is enough harder than the galvanizing that it holds up well with pipe clamps.

5. 
   mc2 | May 24, 2009 11:18pm | #13

   i understand what you're saying, the only strange thing is that the slippage is only happening on one of my 20 sets of pipe clamps. but this one set i will probably switch out to black pipe. thanks for the reply.

2. 
   Originalbart | Jun 01, 2009 03:24am | #16

   The slippage on galvanized pipe is is due to the newer pipe & galvanizing. I have 36 pipe clamps of my Dad's on galvanized pipe that are over 40 years old & still don't slip & 12 10 year old pipe clamps on older used galvanized pipe that don't slip & 4 on black pipe that I hate they don't slip but do leave black marks on occasion.

1. 
   mc2 | Jun 01, 2009 10:57pm | #17

   i'm gonna try the black pipe. thanks.

2. 
   danmart | Jun 12, 2009 12:08am | #18

   If you use the black pipe, you can elimate the black bleed on the wood by purchasing some cheap pipe wrap(foam rubber stuff you insulate your pipes with). Its flexible and you can put the pieces on the pipe with a small knife and a bit of tape. Very easy and very simple

   dan

3. 
   Originalbart | Jun 12, 2009 04:51pm | #19

   Do you mean just small pieces of pipe wrap say 2" at either end to space the pipe away from the project?

4. 
   danmart | Jun 13, 2009 12:42am | #20

   Do you mean just small pieces of pipe wrap say 2" at either end to space the pipe away from the project?

    

   Exactly. Just enough to get the black pipe  up off the wood surface. Its easier than the pvc route. I cut 2-3" sections, cut a line lengthwise, slip it on the pipe and go. With the easy flex of the rubber, I can use the same piece on the 1/2" pipe or 3/4" pipe. The thick stuff you wrap copper tube  will work just fine. Lots of sizes around the hardware section.

   Would send a photo of mine but I am out of business on that path. I posted lost of pictures over the past 2 years- mostly 100-120kb and I'm in the leper colony. Not too big a deal-- I'm spending more time over in Sawmill Creek these days when I have the time to chill. Hope this helps.

   dan

2. 
   Mahoganaholic | May 23, 2009 08:42pm | #8

   I had some galvanized in my clamp stash for awhile. It definately makes 'em slip. Now I just use it for extenders in the threaded end when I need longer clamps by using 3/4" couplings. The clutch end is always black pipe.

2. 
   gdblake | May 23, 2009 07:10am | #2

   Swap pipes with a clamp that isn't slipping.  My bet is that the slipping clamp will still slip with the new bar.  The clamp's locking mechanism may have a weak spring or misshapened conponents.  The body of the clamp may have too large of hole for the bar to pass through and can't lock down.  In my experience, a slipping pipe clamp usually can't be fixed.  I've had them wear out and not be able to hold position any more.  If it's new take it back and exchange it.

   gdblake

1. 
   mc2 | May 23, 2009 05:17pm | #5

   i'm not sure how old this one is (i've got so many that are alike). i'll change it out and see what happens. thanks for the input.

3. 
   ring | May 23, 2009 04:19pm | #3

   Try taking the tail apart and flipping the lock plates over.

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?lang=e&id=1

1. 
   mc2 | May 23, 2009 05:14pm | #4

   thanks, i'll try that.

4. 
   Dave45 | May 25, 2009 04:31pm | #14

   Sanding the bar probably made the slippage worse. I did that once with two of my galvy pipe clamps, and they wouldn't grip at all! Sanding with the long axis of the pipe was a big boo-boo. - lol

   Have you checked the edges of the lock ring holes? The edges need to "bite" into the pipe and if they're worn down (rounded instead of sharp), the clamp will slip under pressure.