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I’m making two of the chairs featured in #186. I have never done anything similar to most of the carvings featured on the back splat so I made a practice run. It’s pictured below leaning in place. Like I said, I’ve never done most of what you see so please make a few comments or suggestions. Anything that makes it into the final versions that you don’t point out now will be your own fault. You’ve been warned…<!—-><!—-> |
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No representation without taxation
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Replies
MattInPA,
Mr. Landon's work . That was what came to mind instantly when I looked at your pictures. I must say I looked at your pics before reading the text.
I am not a carver. But I am a crotchety, overly critical, perfectionist, who spends an inordinate amount of time gazing at this type of work, particularly the chairs, and who doesn't know when to keep his mouth shut.
So with those qualifications, that I am sure no one here will dispute, let me say I bow down to you sir. Your work is beautiful ! Just beautiful !
roc ( who finds gazing much easier than doing especially in this case ! )
PS: I definitely am going to make some SIMPLER Chippendale dining chairs for Lisa (who is from PA) and I so have been looking into them quite a little bit.
That looks fantastic, if its at all convienient, I would like to see some close ups. Chris
So, when do you start giving classes on carving?
Very nice!!!!
Bruce
Matt,
I am a carver. You just started, and you are better than I am. That is absolutely fantastic. There is one guy around here who makes Chippendale and Queen Anne furniture for a living. That would be Ray Pine (joinerswork). I will write to him and ask him to check out your photos. If you have any specific questions, he would be the one to ask.
If it were up to me, I'd give you a Ph.D. in carved furniture right now.
Mel
Measure your output in smiles per board foot.
Ray,
Matt just posted some photos of his carved chair. You are the most experienced guy around here in such work. Please take a look at the original post in this thread. Matt thinks he is a beginner. I think he is wrong.
Mel
Measure your output in smiles per board foot.
That's the practice run? When I do 'practice runs' they're in pine or some other cheap wood. What you have there could be featured in FWW.
Great work buddy, keep us posted on how the chairs turn out.
Matt
When people see my work 100 years from now, they'll know I cared.
Matt,
You are steaming on full power I would say .
Are you working from a picture and diagrams/patterns or do you have a completed one to work off? How long have you spent to get them to that stage?
Also, I bought the full sized plans from Gene Landon through oldemillshop.com. They come with all things necessary for lay out along with another 8 pictures that weren't in the article in FWW. I could use about another 20 pictures.
Thanks Ray. There are a few things that I want to do different. If it weren't for the bottom portion I would keep it.No representation without taxation
Matt,
Wow looks like pretty fine work for a practice run, you use some pretty expensive wood for practice runs (Honduran Mahogany).
Thanks for all the replies. I have carved some shells and volutes before. This isn't my very first piece. I just haven't specifically done the things on the back splat. Close-ups might blow my cover as far as how good these look. I'll save those for the final version.
Philip, I don't know how long it's taken me to get to this point. the carving on the back splat alone took 10 hours. the second one will probably only take 5-6!
For the record: I'm not 100% sure to make the third. The practice may get used because I tend to take my time on the first and rush through the last.
No representation without taxation
Edited 12/19/2008 8:52 am ET by MattInPA
Edited 12/19/2008 8:59 am ET by MattInPA
Matt,
Pretty work. When it comes to carving, you are no slouch. Looks just like the one in #186. I believe I'd forget about the final run, and just use the practice ones.
Ray
Matt - Very nice work. Don't take any more detailed pictures - that might show flaws, and you've already cemented your reputation. ;-)
As I'm sure you're aware, the originals from the 18th century aren't uniform, though they do sometimes approach that. That said, I would offer the mild critique that the right side of the lower part of the splat doesn't quite follow the curve of the stile on that side, and the volutes on the splat and the upper, inside volutes on the rail look a little bit "off" as far as having a flowing curvature.
But that's a very mild critique - they're well beyond "good enough to use".
Matt - Nice work. I attached my version of Gene's chair, which I did with Gene's assistance as well as a visit to the Philly Museum of Art to see the original. I would recommend that anyone reproducing period furniture see original work - many times I have made a piece and then seen the original in a museum and wanted to throw mine in the trash. Yours is remarkable for the first try! In terms of comments: the back legs look a bit heavy and could be shaped a bit more. The leaves on the splat could use some veining (it may be there, but I can't see it in the picture). The outside C-scrolls also seem to need a more distinct transition between the convex outside and the concave inside. I have made several of these and other heavily carved chairs so if you want pictures, let me know.
You offered...Can you please measure the the width of your legs at the joint of the crest rail and back leg horizontally and then say every 3 inches down to the curve. I thought they were too heavy but they match the measured drawing I purchased. Also, I'd like to see a picture of the bottom half of the back splat. That's where I've had the most trouble and yours, of course, looks like what I want. Finally, if you don't mind, could you please take a few pictures of the back of your chair from an angle. I don't know what it's supposed to look like.
I didn't realize the original was in the Phila. museam of art. I thought it was up at Yale. I will check it out in the near future if it's there.No representation without taxation
The chair was on display the last time I was there, but they rotate pieces in their collection. It is known as the Ryers Queen Anne chair, so you might be able to write or call to see if it is on display still. Will take other pictures shortly, since I will be taking photos of some of my other pieces for my portfolio. Anyway, the dimensions you wanted follow, starting just below the crest rail, every 3". I took the dimensions perpendicular to the sides of the leg, if that makes sense to you. 1 1/8; 1 1/8; 1 3/16; 1 3/8; 1 9/16; 1 5/8. The last dimension is the thickness of the rest of the leg at the keystone. In other words, you maintain the thickness from the square past the crook and for the next few inches above the crook. hope this helps. The chair is also in a number of period furniture books, described as the finest example of Queen Anne furniture yet discovered. Plate 118 of American Furniture by Joesph Downs shows the chair.
Thanks a lot! I puchased to plans from Gene Landon. He sent along 8 additional pictures, 4 on a page. That big one you sent is greatly appreciated. It answers several questions.No representation without taxation
Very nice work, Matt.
Jim
Just found this picture of the lower splat... Carving on the splat is somewhat shallow on originals - I assume to keep them from interfering with clothing.
Just saw this picture. PERFECT! EXACTLY WHAT I NEED! You're A/#1 in my book bigtop. Thanks again.No representation without taxation
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